Pro's & cons of ES gun compared to shake & bake PC'ing

fingers284

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I bought an Electro static PC gun 3 years ago and was only able to use it a couple of times before some health issues came up that really curtailed my PC testing hobby.

Somewhat recovered now I was anxious to get back at er' so dug the stuff out of the drawer for a bit of a "extended" test run.

Shake & bake has been very good to me but with a few foibles I wanted to improve upon if I could. S & B is very much cheaper for doing small batches...a margarine tube, tablespoon of powder and a roll of parchment paper and your in business. You need a cooking devise but you need that whichever method you use. The cons of S & B are mostly cosmetic in nature but can also ,if un-remedied, con effect performance. One of the foibles I have found with S& B is the thickness of the covering can very from .001 to .004 from batch to batch...sometimes this is a benefit if you are trying to "bump-up" a bullet dia. to fit a particular bore but if your aiming for a nominal size a quick trip thru any of the sizer machines will "uniform" your slugs. Most of us coat our bullets and then stand them up on a flat surface for cooking and this results in probably the most often complaint of PCing, that being " uneven bottom flashing". The side flashing is again very easily removed by a quick sizing but the "uneven base is there to stay more or less. All this being said I can't really say that I have noticed any accuracy issues with an uneven PC base once the side flashing is removed.

Now a bit about the ES gun. The initial cost may be a big factor if your a "small batch" user but if you want to coat hundreds of bullets then one may be a good investment. If you already have a compressor in your garage then the $125 for an entry level gun might not be a drawback.

An ES gun actually adds a lot of diversity to how we can improve the product, especially with bullets smaller than .357. With .357 or larger dia slugs they are easy to stand up on most any flat surface for cooking, anything smaller are a bugger to keep standing. This winter I took the opportunity to make some cookie pans ($1.25 each at Dollarama) for myself and another CGN,er into bullet cooker pans by sizing a bunch of holes in them to suit the bullet nose that I will be coating...they worked beautifully for a bunch of .30 I coated.

The perforated pans and the ES gun work excellent together...the uniformity of the coating on the base and riding rings seems to be very consistent from slug to slug. The coating measured a very consistent .001-0015 on every slug I measured and again a quick trip thru the sizer uniformed them all to .001 over uncoated size. They are .003 over bore size and even with only .001 coating thickness they withstood the "hammer" test without any flaking. Another benefit of the perforated pans is for anybody using a mold custom cut to throw a "bore riding nose" bullet, the nose stays clean of PC so no interference chambering them.

The other "pro" for the gun method that I found was speed of coating, if you are a prolific shooter that wants to coat large batches. The one test I did I used two pans (135 holes in each), one for spraying and one for cooking and without hurrying I did over 350 in 40 minutes from starting to spray to done cooking. I have to say that with my oven ( an old kitchen range, very much overkill I know but it was free) ) that will easily hold 4 pans at a time and I am sure I could spray and cook 800 or more bullets an hr with this set-up and enough pans (prob 2 yrs of shooting for me now LOL).

The reason I use two pans per batch, one a spray pan and one a cooking pan is that if you use the sprayed pan to cook with the overspray will cook to the pan and the next batch wont make electrical contact to create the static needed making the pans only good for one use. I can "tweezer" a batch of sprayed bullets to the cooking pan in 1/2 the time it takes to cook a batch in the oven so you don't loose any time...just stay busy while waiting for a previous batch to cook.

An ES gun wont be everybody's cup of tea but hope this helps anybody considering the investment.
 
I use an ES gun with good results. I purchased it on Amazon for about $125. A few steps I find useful:

1. Ensure you do not have any impurities on the bullets before powder-coating or the paint won't stick. Sizing before coating will leave residual impurities on the bullet that will prevent the coating from sticking. Resize after coating and wear rubber gloves.
2. Us a large cardboard box lined with plastic as your painting container to catch excess powder for reuse.
3. For your powder coating/baking plate, use a perforated metal cookie sheet to allow excess powder to fall through. Pizza pans are available that do the trick, too. Cover it with stick free aluminum foil and change the foil after each use. Poke holes in the foil to match the perforations in the plate.
4. Resize after coating to remove flaring at the base and to ensure correct size bullets. I've never had a problem with removing the coating.

I've never tried coating the bullets nose down. Would probably work well with flat nose rounds. I think you would get better coverage around the base where the lands/groves touch the bullet. On the other hand there is no way to remove paint flaring at the top which would cause bullet wobbling - a big no no.

Thoughts? Tips?
 
I bought the Harbor Freight ES gun when I first got into powder coating, it was on sales and I had a 20% of coupon so I got mine on the cheap. It does a good job of coating bullets especially with powders that don't coat well using other methods. Some of the things I didn't like using the gun was I felt I wasted to much powder and I didn't like how the powder builds up around the base of the bullets and make it harder to install a gas check unless you remove the excess powder buildup. I still use the gun to powder coat small parts or things I want to put a durable finish on so it's not a loss.

I found it much easier to just do the shake and bake method, place my bullet base down on non stick foil and get the results I like.

Some of my early bullets I coated with the ES gun with HF yellow and red powders that didn't shake a bake well.

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I'm thinking of making a custom baking sheet for 9mm bullets from copper or mild steel plate. It will have groves cut to form a square pattern in the plate and each square will be slightly smaller than the bottom diameter of a 9mm round. The groves will have a lot of holes to allow excess powder to fall through. The thinking is that since each bullet will be on a pedestal, there is no way for a bullet to stick to the surface of the plate, thereby eliminating the need for stick free aluminum foil which isn't always stick-free. I may still use the foil to reduce paint build-up in the groves. It will have a capacity for about 150 rounds at a time and fit in a toaster oven. I will probably make two.

It will be a bit of work but will last forever.

I tried the shake and bake method and got uneven coating. I also found that gingerly picking each round out of the powder with a pair of tweezers was too tedious. The method doesn't waste powder, however.
 
I'm thinking of making a custom baking sheet for 9mm bullets from copper or mild steel plate. It will have groves cut to form a square pattern in the plate and each square will be slightly smaller than the bottom diameter of a 9mm round. The groves will have a lot of holes to allow excess powder to fall through. The thinking is that since each bullet will be on a pedestal, there is no way for a bullet to stick to the surface of the plate, thereby eliminating the need for stick free aluminum foil which isn't always stick-free. I may still use the foil to reduce paint build-up in the groves. It will have a capacity for about 150 rounds at a time and fit in a toaster oven. I will probably make two.

It will be a bit of work but will last forever.


I tried the shake and bake method and got uneven coating. I also found that gingerly picking each round out of the powder with a pair of tweezers was too tedious. The method doesn't waste powder, however.

Check out post #17 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?251956-Powder-coated-bullets-pics-only
 
A simple solution. I'd still like a few holes to let excess powder fall through. Thanks!!

I don't think it will "just fall through" as the powder will stick to the plate just as it does to the bullets with the charge going through it. another fly in your ointment I can see is that the powder will stick to the base where there is no base touching it. The airborne powder will be "sucked in" by the charge, I can coat bullets by just spraying from one side and suspect the same will happen to your base's.
 
I don't think it will "just fall through" as the powder will stick to the plate just as it does to the bullets with the charge going through it. another fly in your ointment I can see is that the powder will stick to the base where there is no base touching it. The airborne powder will be "sucked in" by the charge, I can coat bullets by just spraying from one side and suspect the same will happen to your base's.

I tried a test using bolts and wire mesh (1/4 inch). The powder falls through, and the bullets don't stick (there is minimal powder coating on the base of the bullet). It is a simple and effective setup. Take another look at Check out post #17 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...lets-pics-only. Just use wire mesh instead.

Perhaps it is just the charge my unit delivers. Not strong enough to get the underside.

Yes, the mesh gets some coating but the bulk of the powder falls through for reuse. As long as there is a metal to metal connection with the mesh, bolt and bullet, you're fine.

My mesh was just six inches square. I didn't have enough for anything larger. Might be necessary to use a couple of metal strips to stiffen it up for stability.

May need to cover the bolt heads with aluminum foil for ease of cleaning.
 
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