Quenching cast
- Thread starter lyktohunt
- Start date
Basically what these guys said, dropping hot bullets into water causes the outside to become harder then it would if air cooled.
Some people go so far as to heat their bullets in an oven, then drop them into water, so they are more uniform, then dropping them from a mold at an unknown temperature into water.
Some people go so far as to heat their bullets in an oven, then drop them into water, so they are more uniform, then dropping them from a mold at an unknown temperature into water.
There is more to it, bullets that are heat treated continue to change hardness with time, they harden more over a week or so and then over time, return to their original state of softness. I don't find this satisfactory at all and use Linotype or other "print metals" to harden alloys. When done very hard bullets also tend to fracture when they hit solid bone because for the most part, hard bullets are brittle bullets, adding tin can help mitigate this fracturing. For target shooting, this "brittleness" is of no consequence.
Ok so after they are dropped into water do they remain harder or does that change as the the inside and outside become uniform ( totally cooled down )
I am asking because I have some pure lead that I would like to use to velocity,s about 1400 fps
I am asking because I have some pure lead that I would like to use to velocity,s about 1400 fps
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
You need antimony in the lead alloy to water quench harden it.
Wheelweights have sufficient antimony (3-4%) and tin (.5-1%) to respond to water quenching. Well, that's what I've read so that's what I use.
I also have some linotype that I alloy with pure lead. I also use 50-50 WW and pure lead for my .45 acp and .38 special/spl+P loads. Water quenching is my standard procedure.
I have no hardness tester but with alox lube, I seem to get minimal, if any, leading in my 45 pistols, revolvers and 9mm pistols.
Wheelweights have sufficient antimony (3-4%) and tin (.5-1%) to respond to water quenching. Well, that's what I've read so that's what I use.
I also have some linotype that I alloy with pure lead. I also use 50-50 WW and pure lead for my .45 acp and .38 special/spl+P loads. Water quenching is my standard procedure.
I have no hardness tester but with alox lube, I seem to get minimal, if any, leading in my 45 pistols, revolvers and 9mm pistols.
Water quenching is a simple way to harden cast bullets that are using an antimony mixture, such as found with wheelweights. The more controlled way involves temperature controlled ovens and rapid quenching after they have been heated to the appropriate temperature long enough (just under the slump point of the alloy). Quenching on casting is less controlled and the hardness may vary a bit. However, you do get a really hard bullet.
You cannot quench pure lead, and from what I have read a lead tin alloy is also not suitable for quenching. The utility of the process would also depend on what you are shooting the bullets in - a rifle or handgun.
You cannot quench pure lead, and from what I have read a lead tin alloy is also not suitable for quenching. The utility of the process would also depend on what you are shooting the bullets in - a rifle or handgun.
At 1400 fps, why won't pure lead work, assuming he has the proper lubricant and gas check applied to the bullet? I use pure lead slugs in my muzzle loader at this velocity and have never had any trouble as far as leading and accuracy is great. I do use a wad under the bullet to prevent powder gas from scorching the bullet base.
What say you?
What say you?
You are right, most bullets folks use are too hard and if not a good fit, can cause more leading than a softer bullet, for the most part bullet fit is more important then alloy hardness. A good lube and a bullet design that has multiple grooves or wide/deep grooves, could make the difference.
