Question about lead projectiles

Gnome75

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I have been debating switching to lead projectiles because they are way cheaper and I just plink anyway. I found this company and they make 303 British projectiles.

http://www.thebulletbarn.com/bullets-lead.html

My questions are:

1. Since I use a leeloader classic will I have any issues getting the projectiles into the brass? They list them as been .313 instead of the normal .311-.312

2. Do lead projectiles even work well in a lee enfield? I am talking about feeding and good enough combat accuracy.

3. Is there any special cleaning that needs to happen with lead projectiles?

4. Is there any danger in handling lead? The internet makes lead out to be a silent killer.

5. Is there anything I should know about using these projectiles or do I just use them like the hornady interlocks I have been using?
 
1. Lead bullets will be larger in Dia.
2. Yes
3. Clean very well before going to lead. After that clean as normal.
4. Only if you eat it.
5. Get ones with gas checks, better for higher velocity.

Lead will always be shot at a lower velocity.
 
You will need to expand necks. Lyman m die is about the best for this.

Lead works great in most guns. Slug your bore for diameter. Some are considerably larger then others.

If the bullet fit is right you won’t have leading. To small and you get leading.

Lead is poison so don’t eat it
 
Bullet barn sells "bullets". Bullets don't become "projectiles" until thrown or shot.

We are quite sophisticated here. We all know what a bullet is, so don't be shy about using the correct word.

Rant off.

I have loaded lead bullets in a number of Lee Enfields. I was shooting at 50 yards and found them just as good in every way as jacketed - except much cheaper. I cast them myself and sized them with a gas check.

I found the heavier the bullet the better. My favourite was a round nose around 210 gr. Had a satisfying kick and was the most accurate.

I used 10 to 15 gr of unique powder.

Loading is the same as jacketed, except the case mouth has to be flared. A flaring tool is best, but there are other ways. I have been known to use a 50 cal bullet, pushed by hand, or touch the case mouth with the expander button of a 8mm sizing die.

As mentioned, use a good copper solvent to get the barrel squeaky clean before switching to lead bullets.
 
Lead bullets work excellent. I cast them for every caliber I own. Some stuff it's the only way I can shoot them. A Ballard 32 long centerfire,Snider and Martini-Henry and more. A lot cheaper too. Try finding.329 bullets. 92 bullet moulds currently. 3 hours at the range with pistols starts to add up. It is just plain old fun to make my own. Over 2000 lbs of lead ready to cast. The only way you can shoot some obsolete guns is to cast your own. Last lead test was below average so not too worried about lead poisoning. So if anyone needs bullets I just may have them.
 
I have been debating switching to lead projectiles because they are way cheaper and I just plink anyway. I found this company and they make 303 British projectiles.

http://www.thebulletbarn.com/bullets-lead.html

My questions are:

1. Since I use a leeloader classic will I have any issues getting the projectiles into the brass? They list them as been .313 instead of the normal .311-.312

2. Do lead projectiles even work well in a lee enfield? I am talking about feeding and good enough combat accuracy.

3. Is there any special cleaning that needs to happen with lead projectiles?

4. Is there any danger in handling lead? The internet makes lead out to be a silent killer.

5. Is there anything I should know about using these projectiles or do I just use them like the hornady interlocks I have been using?

Is there really a saving? I see the BB 180grn at 65$/200, which makes it 325$ per 1000. Then I see the russian pulled bullets, which are jacketed 123grn for 150$/1000. Not the same thing at all, but if just for plinking away, it's cheap to try them.
 
I am a high volume shooter that shoots anywhere from 5,000-8,000 cast lead rounds a year. Lead is nothing to screw around with. I wear latex gloves whenever I'm reloading cast lead. The only time my hands touch the ammo is when I'm loading it at the range into the firearm.
 
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