question about lee enfield receivers

Expendable Nate

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Probably a stupid question but I'm curious. Are these holes for a scope mount? Only the one that actually has a screw in it appears to be threaded. Thanks for reading
 
Nope. Spend some time on milsurps site for more detail. The extractor pulls the case out of the chamber. If it is fired, chances are real good that the friction against left wall will cause the fired case to flip out. Remove your bolt and look how that left milling cut was made that the left side of the fired case slides against. It is not constant depth - shallowest about the place where the fired case rim would be as the case leaves the chamber. The screw is meant for ejecting fired cases, which weigh more and may not be flipped until they hit the screw. Also a positive ejection if the friction business did not work on an empty case. "Adjusting" your ejected distance is in how hard / fast you pull back the bolt. It was meant to be slammed hard to the stops, both ways. If you remove that ejector screw, your rifle will probably work fine when you baby the action, but it will feed an empty case right back into the chamber, along with a cartridge from the magazine when you get a second shot at a good moose at about 45 yards. Ask me how I know that!!
 
There should be no friction against left wall. That screw is the ejector. If the front gas release hole is threaded, Bubba did it.
 
The extractor has a spring in it. As an empty case is slowly pulled back, the mouth of the case will be pushed right by the extractor spring. When the case mouth clears the action, the case should flip out.

When the spring gets old and tired, the case may not flip. If the bolt is pulled back smartly, the case rim will hit the ejector screw, and that will kick the case out. So the ejector screw is plan B. And given the greater inertia of a loaded case, I guess it is Plan A for ejecting loaded rounds.

The ejector screw hole is often used as the screw mount hole for a Parker Hale type target sight. The sight hole is under the masking tape.

IMG_1018.jpg
 
There should be no friction against left wall.

Not quite, in fact, quite the opposite. If there is no friction, there is no ejection.

I am a very tolerant person but find Sunray's missinformation becoming a little tiresome. He is either genuinely confused or is a Troll doing it on purpose.

The ejection system on a Lee Enfield is pure genius in design. There are two distinct forms of ejection.

With a fired case, on extraction, if the extractor claw spring is in good order, the rim of the case is pushed hard against the left side wall by the extractor claw. There is a groove machined into the side wall for which the case rim to ride. The groove is machined with a taper to act as a ramp for the rim to ride up. the further the case is drawn back, the harder the rim presses against the wall and the greater the friction and drag. When the case mouth clears the chamber, this drag will make the freed case pivot about the point where it is held by the extractor claw. If the bolt is worked smartly, the case will flip right out of the receiver opening.

With a loaded round, the case will not flip as the end of the case clears the chamber because as it is prevented from doing so by the the bullet that is still in place. The round has to be drawn further back due to its longer length. This is where the second system comes into play. The round's case rim will ride up the groove to an apex and then enters a second tapered groove descending into the reciever wall. The rim rides down this ramp until it reaches the end where it is halted by impacting the screw. Once again, the loaded case will pivot on the point where it is held by extractor claw and will flip out of the receiver opening.

That screw is the ejector.

Wrong. That screw does take a role in the ejection of a loaded round, but in most instances ejection would take place without it, the rim would hit the end of the machined ramp. However, the end of the ramp would wear and would become blurred with use. The screw is there to provide a positive stop for the rim of the round. The tip of it is hardened and is a replaceable part should it become worn or damaged.

Sit with a drill round and an empty case, chamber and eject each to watch the mechanism in action. Pure genius in economy of design.
 
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There should be no friction against left wall. That screw is the ejector. If the front gas release hole is threaded, Bubba did it.

It is abundantly obvious by your statement regarding the Lee Enfield ejector system, that you have never examined the rails of any Lee Enfield receiver, you have never observed the actual process of a case being ejected, either of a fired or a non-fired round. Nor have you read any reference material regarding the design parameters of the firearm. You, Sir, provide comments to genuine questions on this forum, as if you are an ass. Are you, Sir?
 
It is abundantly obvious by your statement regarding the Lee Enfield ejector system, that you have never examined the rails of any Lee Enfield receiver, you have never observed the actual process of a case being ejected, either of a fired or a non-fired round. Nor have you read any reference material regarding the design parameters of the firearm. You, Sir, provide comments to genuine questions on this forum, as if you are an ass. Are you, Sir?

and the OP quite obviously pointed out that only the rear hole with the screw in it was threaded.

so wrong about the ejecton and wrong about the threadding, reading comprehension fail.

I wish we had rule about giving wrong information.
 
and the OP quite obviously pointed out that only the rear hole with the screw in it was threaded.

so wrong about the ejecton and wrong about the threadding, reading comprehension fail.

I wish we had rule about giving wrong information.

We sort of do have such a rule: If you are consistently giving wrong information, you are sunray.
 
Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.

The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php...esearch-for-milsurp-collectors-and-re-loaders


2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3314

Complete Set includes:

- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3322

Complete Set includes:

- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

Hope this helps... :)

Regards,
Doug
 
Annoying as it might be, might I suggest that if one has a concern about Sunray, take it privately to a moderator and let them moderate. I have.

Otherwise we will have a #####-fest in public which can only hurt CGN. We have a global audience and a credible reputation to maintain.
Plus, perhaps getting members agitated is Sunray's way of getting his jollies. He is probably laughing at our response.

Just saying.

I know that if I was a newbie (the OP is certainly not a newbie) and asked a simple question to have it high jacked and diverted by Sunray and then a bunch of people jumping into the brawl, it would be my first and last post.

I hope the OP got his question answered and that he will continue to be part of our community and not be deterred to ask more questions.
 
Well this is the Internet and, as always, it contains a huge amount of information, some good, some bad. The 'net is quick, handy and cheap, but its still hard to beat a book where you can qualify the author and source. Military tech manuals and known authors are best. I use my library to answer a lot of questions on here. Besides, folks do have the option of using the ignore button if they find some contributors too disturbing. ;)
 
OP, if you're looking to put a scope on there is a mount made by a CNC outfit in ON that is sold on eBay, . It attaches via the backsight axis pin hole and the ejector screw hole. You need a longer than normal ejector screw to do that obviously and those are available. The sight in Ganderite's photo above attaches the same way. Your other option is the S&K type mount which replaces the back sight and clamps onto the top of the charger bridge.
 
Wow I'm genuinely sorry go have caused this much drama. Think I'm gonna start asking the Google more. Thank you those who had this great info. Again sorry

You asked a fair question and got a variety of responses, some on the mark, some off. I'd continue to ask as you will eventually get a correct/accurate answer. "Googling" isn't necessarily a sure thing; just ask any MD who has to compete with "Dr. Google" these days. Some folks on here do like to build a clock when you ask them what time it is. :p
 
BTW, I recently had a #4 that was not ejecting reliably. I use it to compete in rapid fire matches, so poor ejection was an issue.

The solution was to replace the spring in the extractor, so the case would have more side force on it as it came out of the chamber.

I did not attempt to replace the spring myself. I have heard stories about breaking the spring when trying to install it. So I had it done by a gunsmith who knew what he was doing.

The empty cases now flick out of the rifle.
 
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