question about my vortex hst on my savage

T

TheM4chef

Regular
Rating - 100%
201   0   0
Location
Southern Gulf Islands, BC
Hey guys,
finally got to hit the range with my new rig yesterday Savage 12 with 18" heavy bbl vortex viper hst 6-24x50. nothing better than having the range to yourself all day long @17 degrees and sunny with varied wind going left to right

I bore sighted at 25yd, fired three to get close then moved to 100yd 3 shots on the bottom left target and was very happy with the results.
I set the crs zero stop after the second group and had to use all the shims but one. Is this normal? I have not counted how many revolutions I have before it tops out but it tracked perfectly. I'm running what I was led to believe is a weaver 20moa rail and burris signature zee rings. Shooting hand loads I developed for my 20" colt hbar. hornady 52gr bthp, cci br4, mixed fl resized brass, 23.5gr h322

I won't be shooting more than 250yd at the range but would like to have the option of shooting further on forestry lands here. Am I missing something here? I'm new to this type of shooting so thanks for your patience.

 
Last edited:
I have not heard much about people having issues with these but optics section may be a better place to ask this question, in the mean time I not trying to be rude so please take this with a grain of salt but a couple of things I can think of:

is there any obstruction in between your rail and your receiver
is it on the correct way
were those shims used for 100y zero or 25 yrd zero

Most people run a 100 yrd zero and therefore will probably require less shims. Sorry those are just some things I can think of off the top of my head. Other than that though, your next step would be to figure out what you intend to be your max range, run up some calculations on JBM ballistics and see how much elevation is needed and then see if you can dial that with your current setup.
 
TheM4chef said:
I posted here since I've never got a response on the optic forum in the past.
The shims were installed for the 100yd zero. As for the rail it can only be mounted in one direction.
Click to expand...

If your not sure if you have a canted rail I would check. My guess is that you have a 0 MOA or flat rail.

When I had a 4-16x44 HST with 0 cant I used just about all the zero stop shims. And with all the shims the zero stop was super mushy.
 
you can buy the ring offsets to -/+20....if you measure your base you will know if its a 0 or 20 MOA mount.
 
As a side note try eliminating the big black dots on your targets. They're good for iron sights but the triple 3's crosses are much better. Also, check to see how close to mechanical zero you are on your elevation. That should give you an idea of whether or not you have a canted base.
 
I have a 20moa rail, same scope but 4-16x44 and run a 100m zero. 25m zero would require more of the zero stop rings. I had the same problem with a 0moa rail but with a different scope. I was shooting in a scenario where I would fire 5, then walk back in 100yard intervals. When I got back to 500 and 600 I had to shoot off of my reticle only because my elevation was maxed out at 400.

A canted rail will point your scope slighly up (or down...its been a long day), which will require less clicks up to zero, giving you more clicks up which will allow you to shoot farther.

Mathematically I have travel to go past 1km, but with .308 that will be a challenge. :)
 
Write down your 100 yd zero then turn your elevation all the way up or down. Next turn it the opposite direction until it stops. Write down the total travel in whatever value your turrets are (mil or moa) then figure out where your 100 yd zero compares to mechanical zero which will be half of your total travel. With a 0 moa base you should a couple inches above mechanical zero. This amount will be the scope's height above the bore plus your bullet drop from muzzle to 100 yds. So for example if you had 100 moa travel and a 0 moa base, a scope 3" above bore centerline, and 1.5" drop from 0 to 100 yds you should end up 54.5 moa of elevation used leaving 45.5 moa of elevation to play with. Now if you add a 20 moa base you would have 65.5 moa of elevation left. Assuming of course everything is machined and installed properly.
 
I had a vortex HST on my savage for awhile and I'm almost certain that after zeroed at 100yds I had to use all the shims for the zero stop. Pfrom what I read about the vortex zero stop, using almost all the shims is pretty normal.
 
Yep same here. I used all but one on my 4-16x44. I think its normal. This type of zero stop does not stop exactly after you pass your zero but generally stops within a few moa/mrad.
 
With a 20moa rail I had five shims left. To get my zero stop closer to bang on I used 800 grit sandpaper and thinned one shim. Now it stops 2 clicks past my zero.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom