Question for the gunsmiths

Kev303

Kev303

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Good day

So I kinda find myself in a situation that I’m not 100% what the best solution is. A couple weeks ago I removed a barrel on a rifle to work on the action. When I screwed the barre back onto the action and tighten it up I went past the line up marks. So my question is can I just back the barrel back to line up the marks or should I get a reamer and ream it to proper headspace now. I have head space gauges and I know the headspace is tight won’t close on a go gauge.
 
More info is needed;
-is this a savage type action with external barrel nut (sorry got to ask)?
-what torque was required to go past the previous stop point and final torque?
-does the barrel have any sights attached or an information line that you don’t want below the stock line?
-did you use any lube or lock tite on the threads?
Is it possible the previous smith put it on with a light torque.
I am sure others with more experience will be right along.
 
It’s an Enfield P14 in 338 win mag and no it didn’t take much to go past the marks there was no lock tight on it when I took the barrel off. There is no sights
 
Umm the 338 Win Mag headspaces on the belt, not the shoulder, unless you fireform your cases, then neck resize only. Then "if" there is a bit of room in front of the shoulder, before the cases were shot, now that space will be taken up and the case will likely be against the shoulder when in the chamber.

Do you remember if the mate marks on the barrel/receiver matched before you took it off??

When you torque up the barrel to the receiver and chamber a cartridge, will the bolt close without resistance?

Enfields #### on closing, unless they've been altered, but you should be able to tell whether or not the bolt is not closing without normal resistance.

If the cartridge chambers without resistance and the barrel has been torqued to your satisfaction, all should be well.
 
Yah everything was fine before the head space was good and it did close on a new cartridge. It has the #### on open conversion. The prob is I tighten up the barrel and I noticed the marks aren’t lined up any more. When I put my ho headspace gauge in the bolt won’t shut. Would I be able to back it off and line up the marks and call it good or just leave it and ream it to proper headspace
 
It would depend on how much torque it takes to pull up to the index marks vs the amount of torque to where it is now vs how much torque to get the barrel firmly torqued in.
It isn't an original barrel - who knows how much torque was used by the gunsmith who installed it?

If the barrel is pulled up tight and the bolt will not close on a GO gauge - or on a new cartridge case - then a reamer might be appropriate.

I don't understand why the rifle would be working normally and then appear to have a headspace problem after the barrel was removed and replaced.
 
Because the indexing marks are out of alignment now when I put it back I tightened it up a bit to much the marks are out about a couple thou enough that the bolt won’t close on the go gauge. Can I just back the barrel out to where the marks are aligned and call it good or once the barrel has gone by those mark and I’m back to a short chamber just ream it to proper headspace
 
Being a P14 Enfield the chamber end is notched for the extractor, this has to line up. I believe a shim is necessary if not tight enough. I believe the witness marks must line up. I have a one as well, same calibre.
 
blazinbilly said:
Being a P14 Enfield the chamber end is notched for the extractor, this has to line up. I believe a shim is necessary if not tight enough. I believe the witness marks must line up. I have a one as well, same calibre.
Click to expand...

Having shot a lot with a P'14/M17 in .308 and .300 Win, I tend to agree with the comment above. It is entirely possible the threads were dirty before, and you managed to give yourself a new question to answer without thinking. The witness marks should be respected, and I like the idea of a shim. After all, the No.4 Lee Enfield was designed around a set of tolerances that included barrel shims (like large thin washers) to accommodate for different manufacturers.
 
Kev - you've had the barrel off. How was it breeched up? Are there cuts in the barrel face? P'14 extractor or M1917? What is the clearance bolt nose to barrel face?
 
Thanks everybody for the help and the suggestions. I sent a pic to a gunsmith and he just said to back it off the very little amount I had to and everything work out
 
Yup, two thou of crush is nice but it isn't really that critical.

Some folks get nervous because most rifle bores have a right hand twist and they worry that the forces generated during firing might cause barrels to loosen up, IMHO, the .002 standard crush is overdoing it.

The smith you sent the pics to gave you good advice.
 
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bearhunter said:
Some folks get nervous because most rifle bores have a right hand twist and they worry that the forces generated during firing might cause barrels to loosen up
Click to expand...

A right hand twist spins the bullet to the right, and for every action - reaction, so torques the barrel to the left from a shooters perspective. It would want to tighten.
 
KotKotofeich said:
I would have tried to make a crush washer (understandably a pain) to get proper torque - any functional/safety problems with this approach?
Click to expand...

It is difficult to make a 2 thou washer and there is a chance it will rip on torquing. If needed I would prefer to upset the contact area with a stippling punch. Blue Loctite would be the easiest and when set up eliminates the need for "proper torque".
 
guntech said:
It is difficult to make a 2 thou washer and there is a chance it will rip on torquing. If needed I would prefer to upset the contact area with a stippling punch. Blue Loctite would be the easiest and when set up eliminates the need for "proper torque".
Click to expand...

This/\

About the thinnest I've been able to make lock up washers on my lathe is around .005 in. Then I have to fiddle with them on 400 grit or smaller emory cloth on a cast iron plate with cross hatching ground to a couple of degrees of light until they're at the thickness I need.

I've tried cutting them from steel shim stock but the results are usually unsightly.

When using lock up washers, you definitely won't be able to achieve .002 crush without damaging the washers and likely forcing them out of the contact area.
 
bearhunter said:
This/\

About the thinnest I've been able to make lock up washers on my lathe is around .005 in. Then I have to fiddle with them on 400 grit or smaller emory cloth on a cast iron plate with cross hatching ground to a couple of degrees of light until they're at the thickness I need.
Click to expand...

Precisely what I was talking about when I said it would be a pain :) I've never had to make them _that_ thin though... Thank you for sharing your experience!
 
Rather than try to make a thin shim, I have machined the barrel shoulder back and made a breeching washer, perhaps 0.100 thick.
 
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