question..... Look here 500 SW MAG reloaders
- Thread starter jdman
- Start date
deadeyes40
CGN Regular
- Location
- nova scotia
the 500sw is a handgun/revolver is it not?should you be using cci 300 or 350 primers instead?not large rifle.
Quote: As it would be a poof, instead of a loud bang? Sorry i have never fired a primer on its own before, so i could not differentiate between the two sounds it would make.
As mentioned in other posts, I doubt it is your primers. However, if you try some primers only, you can expect a very loud "bang" - enough to make you jump under your reloading bench! Wear ear protection and tell anyone else in the house what to expect. If you have sensitive neighbours who might call in a "shots fired" you may be best to do this at the range. I find this problem interesting and await your final solution.
As mentioned in other posts, I doubt it is your primers. However, if you try some primers only, you can expect a very loud "bang" - enough to make you jump under your reloading bench! Wear ear protection and tell anyone else in the house what to expect. If you have sensitive neighbours who might call in a "shots fired" you may be best to do this at the range. I find this problem interesting and await your final solution.
500mag uses large rifle primers even though it is a pistol. It did start off as large pistol and then they switched the cases to take large rifle primers. If you come upon brass that was designed for large pistol the large rifle primers will not seat flush.
Its actually under the OAL I am sure you can see from the pic that its quite a bit shorter.Thanks, and when i went downstairs i found a XTP, so tyeah i see what you are saying. Sorry i was backwards before, it says to crimp way above the cannalure. I asked this before, and i was told just to crimp on the Cannalure.
LOL. I cant even get 4 rounds to fire!!!!
Well maybe, but with 2 out of 2, i figured i better ask, as i must be missing something.
It is a round i am already nervous in loading as it is, so....
Thanks for the help. SO you are going way past the OAL recommendation???
H110 or Win.296 same powder different package is a ball powder and much more dense and thus harder to ignite with a weak primer. H110 in general requires the use of a Magnum primer to ignite,however I did notice that my Lyman manual list the CCI #200 LR primer but I consider them on the weak side as far as the spark they produce.
H110 is a slow burning powder and require a good spark generally produce by a magnum primer to ignite it fully. The Hodgdon site list the Winchester LR primer as the primer of choice for the 500 S & W Magnum using H110. Win. LR primer are for both standard and Magnum loads and are hotter and produce more spark that the CCI's.
Try some Win. LR primers put a nice crimp on the case and as always when you change a listed component start at the starting load and work up slowly.
H110 is a slow burning powder and require a good spark generally produce by a magnum primer to ignite it fully. The Hodgdon site list the Winchester LR primer as the primer of choice for the 500 S & W Magnum using H110. Win. LR primer are for both standard and Magnum loads and are hotter and produce more spark that the CCI's.
Try some Win. LR primers put a nice crimp on the case and as always when you change a listed component start at the starting load and work up slowly.
NO i will look to see if i have any other powders compatible, but i dont think i do.
Sorry i was rushing again, before work, i meant shorter.
Same load, and such?
Thanks, it will take me a bit to get into a store to buy primers, so i will try a hard crimp, with the CCI's for now, but will get some to try. Thanks for the help guys.
Tsk, tsk. Of all people I thought I WOULDN'T have to tell to read your reloading manual........
what.... i do read it....i look at min- max loads, OAL.
ok so i seated the bullets to the listed OAL in my manual. I tried one round today at the range.
things i observed.
primers are fine as suggested. it went bang this time, and the bullet went at least 25m, hit the berm.
required force to eject the case however.
There was lots of unburned powder in both the cylinder, as well as the BBL.
Not much kick either compared to factory ammo.
Ishodu, what is the OAL where you crimp it?
Another thing i observed was the case when i got it free, was blue/burned on one side only. I do not recall any blue/burned with factory either.
One more Question, i noticed that my dies are not taper crimp dies. They are roll crimp. What am i doing wrong with the crimp?
I do what it says on the setup instructions, and it seems like if i add more crimp(tighten down the die)? It feels like it will cam over, and bend something.
What am i missing with this? I have only used TC dies before.
things i observed.
primers are fine as suggested. it went bang this time, and the bullet went at least 25m, hit the berm.
required force to eject the case however.
There was lots of unburned powder in both the cylinder, as well as the BBL.
Not much kick either compared to factory ammo.
Ishodu, what is the OAL where you crimp it?
Another thing i observed was the case when i got it free, was blue/burned on one side only. I do not recall any blue/burned with factory either.
One more Question, i noticed that my dies are not taper crimp dies. They are roll crimp. What am i doing wrong with the crimp?
I do what it says on the setup instructions, and it seems like if i add more crimp(tighten down the die)? It feels like it will cam over, and bend something.
What am i missing with this? I have only used TC dies before.
There was lots of unburned powder in both the cylinder, as well as the BBL.
Not much kick either compared to factory ammo.
Another thing i observed was the case when i got it free, was blue/burned on one side only. I do not recall any blue/burned with factory either.
One more Question, i noticed that my dies are not taper crimp dies. They are roll crimp. What am i doing wrong with the crimp?
I do what it says on the setup instructions, and it seems like if i add more crimp(tighten down the die)? It feels like it will cam over, and bend something.
What am i missing with this? I have only used TC dies before.
The unburnt powder means what you think, incomplete ignition.
The burning means pressures were low enough that the case wasn't completely sealed in the chamber, so gasses charred the exterior of the case.
How much more can you push the bullet into the case without compressing the powder? (You can slightly compress the powder charge.)
Normally roll crimps are used on lead bullets, and there is a groove on the bullet to accomodate it. On jacketed revolver bullets, the cannelure is used in place of a groove, and the amount of crimp is reduced a bit to avoid buckling.
In your case, I'd try to push the bullet in past the area where it's 100% straight, and is transitioning in a curve. Set the die to crimp the brass past this point. (This is the ogive mentioned above) This should give you enough case wall tension and crimp to improve the ignition.
thanks Canuck,
That explains why the 700gr i loaded up fired fine. Same as the other though, it was weak recoil.
There is still lots of room in the case id imagine. I will do as said, and seat them deeper, crimp on the ogive.
So is there a noticeable ring around the bullet if crimped too much like with a TC? i cant get it to make one.??
edit to add, i see what you are saying with the crimp a bit past, this is so there is a bit of brass above the strait part, allowing it to "fold" over sort of, and make a better seal.
That explains why the 700gr i loaded up fired fine. Same as the other though, it was weak recoil.
There is still lots of room in the case id imagine. I will do as said, and seat them deeper, crimp on the ogive.
So is there a noticeable ring around the bullet if crimped too much like with a TC? i cant get it to make one.??
edit to add, i see what you are saying with the crimp a bit past, this is so there is a bit of brass above the strait part, allowing it to "fold" over sort of, and make a better seal.
