question on cooey model 39 action ?

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sea77ca

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Hi I'm into older firearms. I don't like that plastic stuff very much.
Anyways I picked up a cooey model 39 single shot today, brought it home & went to test fire it.I cocked the bolt, loaded the cartridge, closed the bolt, aimed & squeezed the trigger.Nothing happened, no click nothing.
At first i thought is was a misfire so I followed all the safety procedures in dealing with such matters.
After fiddling around with the gun for 5 minutes I saw that I have to grab the rear of the bolt & pull it back until I hear a click after closing before pulling the trigger. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or did I get screwed by the dealer ?

P.S. it dry fired once. is it damaged now ?

Thank you for any information. Sean
 
For the #39 that is correct. Suppose to work that way:)
But if you like it can be modified in under 5minutes to #### on closing;)
But if your happy with the way it is i`d leave it.
 
A safety feature for new shooters, this was a lot of shooters, first gun, mine included, try to make it as safe as possible!! No chance of accidental fire if its not cocked till your ready, scares me when new shooters get semi auto's. good old common sense!!
 
Works as it is supposed to.

May also note that if partially #### it and release there is a half #### safety too - so if slippery fingers and release while cocking accidentally you dont have an AD. The model 60 has a cut out so can #### and rotate a nob on the bolt into the cutout which then functions as a safety.

If you dry fire a rimfire you're denting the chamber and causing risers on the sides around the dent. These risers can eventually have the same affect as a firing pin so when close the bolt you could have an AD. Or you break the pin before then. Would doubt that doing this once or twice causes real damage but you have a 40 year plus rifle in your hands so who knows what condition it is in.
 
canuckhunter said:
Interesting. How is the mod to #### on closing done?
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Just file a flat on the striker body so the sear can pick-up the cocking notch when you first close the bolt. (IIRC you might also need a small flat on the bolt body in front of the cocking notch too).

Not that I'm recommending it.
 
I wouldn't touch the striker body"rear part of bolt" as this may affect the pull, maybe just put a blockin the top part and hit the actual sear engagement surface with some very fine emery paper, or a small fabric wheel with jewelers rouge. the front part of the bolt "with the handle" may be filed down allowing the sear to pick up the rear part of the bolt. My stepfather and I did this on my rifle with a milling machine, nearly 25 yrs ago, no pics sorry.

Splatter said:
Just file a flat on the striker body so the sear can pick-up the cocking notch when you first close the bolt. (IIRC you might also need a small flat on the bolt body in front of the cocking notch too).

Not that I'm recommending it.
Click to expand...
 
Ok thanks guys. I'll try it on the Bridgeport one day when I get the time. That old Cooey was my first gun and I want it done right even though the gun is beat up from many boyhood excursions. ;)
 
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Yes, mine too, but we modded the living heck out of it. My stepfather and I also made a 50 cal falling block, and sportered mauser's etc....

canuckhunter said:
Ok thanks guys. I'll try it on the Bridgeport one day when I get the time. That old Cooey was my first gun and I want it done right even though the gun is beat up from many boyhood excursions. ;)
Click to expand...
 
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