Question re: sequence of events

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Great Crouton

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I'm doin some groundwork prepping myself to get into the reloading game (FUN!!) and have watched a number of videos on youtube watching how others do it. I've notice one thing that doesn't make sense to me.

As I've seen it demonstrated so far
1) Bring home brass from range
2) Chuck that brass into a polisher
3) During the process (almost regardless of what type of press you use) the old primer is popped out and a new one inserted

Why is the primer swap out done after the polishing of the case? I thought I had seen some handheld devices that will pop the primer out. Would it not make more sense to pop the primers out first THEN polish?

I realize this will add some time to the process but wouldn't it be better to polish without the primer in and skip that part on your press or does it not really make any difference?
 
I have a universal decapping die and will pop all my primers before cleaning. Is it necessary, likely not, but sometimes I just to prefer to do things that are just a bit over the top. I just gotta have clean prime pockets :D
 
Depending on the media used, it can get 'stuck' in the flash hole.

I usually clean brass before resizing/depriming as well... it helps keep my dies in better shape. Doesn't get those primer pockets really clean, but I couldn't care less about that. :)
 
if using corn cob media, or walnut i will leave the primers in place, as the primer pocket often filled with media. i haven't switched to stainless just yet, but i will likely deprime cases with that to clean the flash hole (not that i care, but just because). for my 500 S&W i deprime because i use an ultrasonic cleaner.
 
Unless you are using a wet stainless steel media type cleaner a vibratory cleaner with dry media will not adequately clean the primer pocket and media will get stuck in the flash hole requiring manual cleaning any ways. Squeaky clean primer pockets are only a concern with bench-rest match ammo and ammo for semi-auto riles.
 
I deprime with a universal depriming die first and clean the pocket with a Lyman pocket cleaner.
Clean via ultrasonic, dry via forced hot air, resize.

Cabela's lube is water soluble so after sizing I double rinse in hot water and dry them again with forced hot air using a space heater.

I then check case length, reprime, load powder and top it all off with a nice bullet. Oh, don't forget to inspect the brass at some point after cleaning. I generally inspect right after resizing and again after bullet seating.

Many ways to skin a cat, but at least protect your dies by cleaning the brass before running them through the resizing dies.
 
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If the brass is clean I size and then tumble to get the sizing lube off.
If the brass is dirty I tumble, size, then tumble again.

Either way I am tumbling with primers removed in dry media at some point. I use a Lee case trimmer so the pin clears the flash holes. After trimming I debur and then clean primer pockets with the Lyman tool. I suppose I don't have to clean primer pockets but it makes me feel better :)

I only reload rifle so don't usually have hundreds and hundreds of primer pockets to clean. If I was using a progressive press and reloading pistol ammo I probably wouldn't clean the primer pockets.
 
As you can tell, there's not perfect answers. I personally use a universal deprimer, then run them through the tumbler. I use pet-store crushed walnut shells designed for lizard cages, which is small enough to clog the cases and flash holes rarely. Works just fine, thanks.
 
44Bore said:
Unless you are using a wet stainless steel media type cleaner a vibratory cleaner with dry media will not adequately clean the primer pocket and media will get stuck in the flash hole requiring manual cleaning any ways. Squeaky clean primer pockets are only a concern with bench-rest match ammo and ammo for semi-auto riles.
Click to expand...

Dang...I was hoping that would be one I could crank out of a press at a decent clip.

Does the care with the primer pockets fall off a bit with pistol ammunition like .40? I'd like to take my time with rifle rounds but was hoping rnds for some of the hungrier ones could be produced quicker.
 
Meh. Resize brass, trim,chamfer,quick run over the primer pocket cleaner and into the polisher. Never found any reason to have either shiny brass or super clean primer pockets. Then reload!
 
My steps for .223:

1) Tumble maybe an hour or so for cleaning.
2) Lube, resize and de-prime on a single stage press (rock chucker)
3) Tumble again to get the lube off
4) trim, chamfer inside and outside with a Giraud trimmer.
5) Load (remainder of loading is on a Dillon 650)
 
Reason for cleaning brass.

Keeps grit out of your dies, and your rifle chamber. Clean shiny brass not only looks better, it lets the grit slide off. Further, clean brass is much easier to diagnose for brass failure.

I use corncob, or walnut media, and generally use it both before, and after sizing/de-priming. It just takes a half hour or so after to get rid of the lube etc. Then I take a spare RCBS decapper, and manually shove it through each flash hole during case inspection prior to priming to ensure no media is blocking the flash hole. I clean primer cavities with a brush, only periodically, I'm not a super accuracy guy. I want fine hunting accuracy for medium range big game, not target work or varmint. I don't do the detailed stuff that often. Only when a rifle is really bugging me do I go through all the fine detailed steps.
 
beltfed said:
My steps for .223:

1) Tumble maybe an hour or so for cleaning.
2) Lube, resize and de-prime on a single stage press (rock chucker)
3) Tumble again to get the lube off
4) trim, chamfer inside and outside with a Giraud trimmer.
5) Load (remainder of loading is on a Dillon 650)
Click to expand...

And that makes sense. So how are people how that are using the 4 stage presses cleaning the lube off the rounds after they are assembled? Those presses look like they are re-sizing, charging and setting the bullets one right after the other. How do you clean it off after the fact?
 
Progressives are mainly used for pistol cartridges and are sized with carbide dies not needing lube and these case don't need trimming as often as rifle cases. In the case where they're used for small rifle calibers that don't need sizing every time, and require lube, they can just wipe them down with a rag or paper towel after. But like Beltfed mentioned, he's lubing then sizing on a single stage. In between that step and the rest of the reloading is where you can trim cases, chamfer / deburr, brush out, clean brass / remove lube, clean primer pockets, inspect and so on. I do most of that with the case chucked in a drill bench mounted horizontally and controlled by a foot pedal. The primer pockets are cleaned using a battery drill with a dremel brush attachment. Then you move back to the progressive press and carry on.

I do this with all my large rifle cases, every time, because they always need trimming.
 
Oh ok, so after you fully re-assemble a cartridge, they can still be put in a tumbler despite having a primer and charge?

Good stuff guys, thank for the info. I'm waiting for all my manuals to come in (Lyman 49 & ABC's of reloading) but will likely take a few weeks. Just getting familiar with the process until then. I learn better knowing a bit of info going in.
 
I tumble in between sizing and trimming due to the fact I'm using a Giraud trimmer. The trimmer indexes the cases on the shoulder; I want that to be consistent as possible, and don't want the case holder all gummed up with lube.
It also gives me a chance to inspect and rectify any walnut that lodges in the flash holes.
 
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