Question, Ultra-Hi 1858 New Army BP revolver... max load? specs?

CRAZYLOCH

CRAZYLOCH

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I need the communities help. I recently got an Ultra-Hi (made in Italy) BP 1858 new army revolver and was wondering where i can get more info.

Its a .44 and i am using .451 balls and No. 10 cap. Steel frame (i think)
1858003.jpg


I am wondering whats the max load it can handle? and is this the correct ball diameter? I have been trying to get info or an owners manual but to no avail :(

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Here is a good chart to get you started...this is from the Goex website. This is for real black powder using a measure marked in grains. I just got both of my revolvers operational again so I will hit the range on the weekend.

http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/RB-Pistol-Revolvers.pdf

1851UbertiPiettatogether002.jpg


I have never heard of Ultra-Hi (Brand Name???)..but here are the date codes for Italian Reproductions so you can date it. It should be stamped on the right hand lower frame.

DateCodesItalianProofmarks.jpg
 
Ultra-Hi is a brand from the 70-80's i have found so far, very high quality, everthing is still very tight and no looseness. They imported it from Italy..so i will look for the marking, thank you.

I am just wondering if i can go with more grains.

I am using 2gr of FFFG (yes flint powder to help it ignite) and 20gr of FFG, button wad, and .451 ball. Works well almost little to no recoil. (have not bought FFFG so i am cheating a bit, since FFG is lower pressure i think i am safe)

What do you all think? is this OK to do?
 
The Remington design is stronger than the open top Colt design so you should be able to use FFFG straight up in the cylinder no problem. FFFG is what is recommended for revolvers,FFG is more for rifles and FFFFG is for priming flint locks. If you are using real black powder ignition shouldn't be a problem.
 
If you shave a ring of lead off the ball when seating it its big enough. Often about a .454 but its quite possible that .451 is appropriate.

As for load, if you stick to real black powder you will run out of room in the cylinder long before you reach any load that will damage anything. There should be no need to use any kind of booster charge either as all black should ignite quite easily. 3F is going to give slightly more power but 2F will work fine too.

There are lots of past threads here on c&b revolvers with lots of good tips.

Happy shooting!
 
All these cap and ball revolvers has a max load limited by just how much powder you can cram into the cylinder and still press a ball on top of it. You just can't overcharge them as long as you use the correct powder.
 
I used to have a Navy Arms Revolving carbine which was basically the 1858 Remington but with a stock and long barrel. I used .454 round balls with 28 grs of FFF black powder. You could probably cram in a little more powder but you wouldn't get much of an improvement in accuracy/velocity. The Dixie Gun Works catalog has all sorts of good data for black powder shooting.
The other guys are correct - you can't get enough powder in the chamber to cause any danger. If you put too much powder in the chamber you won't be able to seat the ball deep enough to allow you to turn the cylinder.

Do you know about "chainfires"? i.e. one shot setting off the adjacent chamber. Use some sort of heavy non-petroleum based grease smeared over the balls to prevent this.
 
Yeah i know about chain fire, i find its mostly from the other side (caps)

So its has an AC stamped on the frame so its a 1977, sound about right, i wonder if i order a pietta extra 44 cylnder if it will work? hmmm

Thank you everyone for the great input.
 
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