I'm thinking of buying an Enfield (must admit i know almost nothing about the various types and don't have a billion hours or dollars to get one) and wondering how much and where i will i have to go to get a decent one for general hunting (elk, moose, deer). Are there any marks that should be avoided? I'm not sure i will scope it or not, i don't tend to take shots beyond 200yards anyways. Thoughts? Thanks
Questions about a Enfield
- Thread starter maigashi
- Start date
Since it sounds like you intend to strictly hunt with it, you will want to buy one that is "sporterized". This means the wood has been cut down and the rifle has essentialy been butchered into a hunting rifle. The most common sporterized enfields are No.1 Mk.3's (open sights) and No.4 Mk.1's (peep sights). If you plan to scope, I dont think it matters which you go with, aslong as the bore is good. If you dont plan to scope, youll have to decide whether you like open sights or peep sights. These can be had for 100-150$, where as a full wood would run you over 400 probbaly. You will see them for sale on the Equipment Exchange here on this forum or at most gun shops. Whatever you do, dont buy a full wood and cut it down.
Agreed, you will want a sportered enfield. They do go from anywhere from $80-$125. But keep on the lookout for older people who may have one shoved in a closet some where and just wants to get rid of it. My first rifle was a sportered enfield and I got it for $1, the guy wanted to throw it away.
If you want to scope it, keep an eye out for one that already been drilled and taped, or one that has had the barrel neutered a bit. Even a sportered enfield with a full barrel still has some value as they can be restored, but a driled and tapped or neutered barrel is pretty much fair game.
If you want to scope it, keep an eye out for one that already been drilled and taped, or one that has had the barrel neutered a bit. Even a sportered enfield with a full barrel still has some value as they can be restored, but a driled and tapped or neutered barrel is pretty much fair game.
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
If you want to hunt with a sporter enfield find one that is already sporterized and set up with the scope.
If you want a good cheap hunting rifle look at a stevens 200
If you want a good cheap hunting rifle look at a stevens 200
People should'nt poo-poo the LE or the .303 Brit for hunting. Trainloads of big game have been taken with the .303. Look for a No4 or No5 with a sound barrel and a proper job of installing a scope base. Alternatively,there are a number of bolt on scope bases which do not involve D&Ting the receiver. I've used the S&K mounts on both the No4 and P14 and find them satisfactory.
My favourite timber rifle is a No5 JC with a Bishop butt,original forestock and a Redfield 23/4 X Widefield scope. It won't group much better than 2.5MOA, but it is light and handy in the bush and has gotten me some nice deer, incl my best whitetail, as well as a moose and a bear. A low power scope is best for hunting in the bush as it gives you a wide field of view while providing adequate target resolution and light gathering around dawn and dusk.
My favourite timber rifle is a No5 JC with a Bishop butt,original forestock and a Redfield 23/4 X Widefield scope. It won't group much better than 2.5MOA, but it is light and handy in the bush and has gotten me some nice deer, incl my best whitetail, as well as a moose and a bear. A low power scope is best for hunting in the bush as it gives you a wide field of view while providing adequate target resolution and light gathering around dawn and dusk.
"...where I will I have to go..." Where are you now? Epp's is listing several in 'fair' condition and 'very good' bores at $349. Shooter's Choice, in Waterloo, Ont lists a No.4 Mk I in very good to excellent condition for $495. Both are military stocked.
If you opt for a sporterized rifle, get proof of good headspace before you buy. Go with a Long Branch No. 4 Mk I*(Cdn made) before a No. 1. Nothing wrong with a No. 1. A No. 4 is somewhat newer.
A .303 will drop a moose or elk past 200 yards with no fuss if you can hit it at that distance. Purple's train loads are great big trains. Know a guy who uses nothing but a bubba'd .303 for moose and has for eons. He says, "It works, why buy another rifle?"
If you opt for a sporterized rifle, get proof of good headspace before you buy. Go with a Long Branch No. 4 Mk I*(Cdn made) before a No. 1. Nothing wrong with a No. 1. A No. 4 is somewhat newer.
A .303 will drop a moose or elk past 200 yards with no fuss if you can hit it at that distance. Purple's train loads are great big trains. Know a guy who uses nothing but a bubba'd .303 for moose and has for eons. He says, "It works, why buy another rifle?"
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
What are you referring to a Lee Enfield or a P14/P17 ?
You don't need to spend a lotta bucks, friend. The last 5 I bought add up to just over $300.
When you get one, try it from a bench, onto a target 50 yards away. Use a square, black, aiming-point about 3 inches square and align the sights with a bottom CORNER of the square. Fire 2 or 3 rounds carefully. If they are more than about 2 inches apart, or if they string vertically, then you have a bedding problem. Likely this will be The Damned Crack, which is the thin portion of the wooden fore-end immediately forward of the butt-socket. This is responsible for more rotten shooting with Lee-Enfields than all the "bad barrels" in existence. Fix that and watch your group shrink a lot.
Most important points of all:
(1) Have fun, and
(2) welcome to the wonderful world of the Lee-Enfield!
When you get one, try it from a bench, onto a target 50 yards away. Use a square, black, aiming-point about 3 inches square and align the sights with a bottom CORNER of the square. Fire 2 or 3 rounds carefully. If they are more than about 2 inches apart, or if they string vertically, then you have a bedding problem. Likely this will be The Damned Crack, which is the thin portion of the wooden fore-end immediately forward of the butt-socket. This is responsible for more rotten shooting with Lee-Enfields than all the "bad barrels" in existence. Fix that and watch your group shrink a lot.
Most important points of all:
(1) Have fun, and
(2) welcome to the wonderful world of the Lee-Enfield!
