Questions about selector fill mod on USGI FG stock...

CanuckShooter

CanuckShooter

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When I am making a damn for the cold weld for the selector fill mod on my USGI synthetic stock.... should I try and make it right flush with the FG, or should I make the damn a bit wider, so that the cold weld is not extacly flush requiring me to sand it down for a smooth finish? I just want to make sure I have a nice smooth finish that blends right in, and am afraid I might not get it perfect using a flush damn, and I guess too much is better than too little.

Where do you get that glaze stuff that is recommended in SKBY's sticky, and where do you get it? Is it pretty durable?

Thanks
 
I used gas tank repair putty, and made it a little wider so I could sand it down flush.

Too much is definately better. It sands down pretty easy, so you might as well put a little extra.

Seriously though, if you haven't bought the JB weld yet, give the gas tank putty a try. Much easier to work with, and sets up just as hard.
 
Put a piece of masking tape on both sides of the cut out and fill the space with bedding material. An Acraglas kits come with a colouring agent. It's not exactly easy to get the colour to match the wood, but it can be done with a bit of experimenting.
 
Do you guys suggest roughing up the surface with sandpaper before filling to promote better adhesion?

Thanks for the info!!

Forgot to ask as well.... are better results achieved when you strip the military brown paint off the stock first then apply the new paint? or is the benefit not worth the time and effort?
 
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CanuckShooter said:
Do you guys suggest roughing up the surface with sandpaper before filling to promote better adhesion?

Thanks for the info!!

Forgot to ask as well.... are better results achieved when you strip the military brown paint off the stock first then apply the new paint? or is the benefit not worth the time and effort?
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The USGI Stocks are brown-painted brown coloured fiberglass. Roughing up for adhesion is a good idea. No need to sand off all the old paint from the stock. Just fill-in and smooth over any major defects then rough-up the whole thing and paint. I used Acraglas to fill mine in = a waste of time - no one is going to see the different colours after painting
 
oops, sorry, mispost.....My bad....

But if I am here, let's see..
Marinetex is the best... boat stores carry it.
Some non-stick foil wrapped around a piece of wood that you wedge inside the stoc and another that you tape on the outside will be agood dam. I always drill anchor points inside the cut, so the whole assembly stays put. removing the brown stuff comes down to having a good paint job anyways...
 
I built dams from waxed cardboard cut from food packaging, trimmed to shape and taped in place with masking tape. I overfilled the hole slightly to allow for settling of the epoxy and sanded back to the right size with a dremmel.

The glazing putty is used for filling minor scratches prior to painting. It will be in the same aisle as the automotive spray paints in CT. Not as durable as epoxy.

When you are painting, resist the urge to put another coat on in less than 24 hours.
 
You rough up the entire stock? What grit sand paper would you use to do that and how much roughing up is enough? :confused: :( So many questions....

hey eltorro, so you DO recommend removing all the original brown paint? is there a solvent i can use to remove it that wont hurst the fibreglass?

Thanks
 
I would not use anything more coarse than 220 grit. No need to take it down to the fiberglass :) Just lightly buff-up the stock. Hard to screw up, but if you do, just start over again. :D

CanuckShooter said:
You rough up the entire stock? What grit sand paper would you use to do that and how much roughing up is enough? :confused: :( So many questions....

hey eltorro, so you DO recommend removing all the original brown paint? is there a solvent i can use to remove it that wont hurst the fibreglass?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
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