I recently finished putting together my new 10/22.

Dlask: 30 MOA Receiver, Maple Leaf Charging Handle, Receiver Pins, Bolt Buffer
Kidd: Bolt, Single Stage Trigger 2 lbs
Shilen 16" SS match bull barrel
Tactical Solutions Vantage RS Stock
Burris Sig Zee Rings
Nightforce 3.5-15, NPR2, zero stop and HS turrets upgrade
Ruger Small parts (screws, v-block)

I really like the receiver because it has a built in scope rail (which is stronger), and it has a 30 MOA cant for long range shooting. The stock is great because a) it has an aluminum pillar, it's tight on the rear of the receiver, and it supports the front of the barrel, so I felt I could skip bedding (which is always such a drag to do).
The home gunsmithing part of this build had three main components. First I had to file the receiver a tiny bit so the bolt would fit inside. Second I had to relieve the bottom of the stock with my dremel sanding drum so that the Kidd trigger pack would fit. Third, I had a hell of a time seating the barrel in the receiver. I decided to go for whatever interference fit the two parts would give me. I got the shank a little way in with hammering the receiver with the barrel in my barrel vise, then used an adjustable wrench on the front of the receiver to try to get good alignment for the extractor cut-out, and hammered it some more with my deadblow hammer to end up getting it stuck with it half way in. I ended up taking it to my buddy's house and his 2 ton arbor press was just able to get it seated. I got lucky with really good extractor alignment in the cutout. The barrel's v-block cutout was a little off relative to the receiver, but I'd rather go by how the extractor looks in the cutout, and besides by that point it would be impossible to rotate it due to the really tight interference fit. I don't think I'd want to attempt this step again.
Today I took it to the range.

I tested it with a little Win T22, but mostly SK standard plus, SK rifle match, and Lapua Center X. I shot for accuracy at 50 yds, giving the rifle some rounds between ammo to acclimate the barrel, and not using the first shot (chambered by hand) for the group. At 50 yds I found the following groups (although keep in mind I'm not an amazing bench shot). Groups are 5 shot, size given in sixteenths of an inch:
Win T22: 16, 18
Sk Std Plus: 12, 12
Sk Rifle Match: 6, 7, 7, 9, 10
Lapua Center X: 4, 8, 10, 11, 12
I don't know if I was getting tired by the end with the Center X. The Rifle Match was very nice, average group just under half an inch.
At 100 yds I shot with more SK RM, and I found five shot groups in sixteenths of an inch: 12, 14, 17, 24. I was really excited at the 12/16 (3/4") group!
At 200 yds I shot a group of 9 rounds into a cheapo brand shoot NC target, the horizontal was ~2" and the vertical was 5", 3.25" for 8 of 9 shots.
At 300 yds I tested my homemade shoot NC target.

It must've been really calm during this string because horizontal was only ~3", while vertical was ~ 12". I'm guessing the vertical dispersion is due to ammo variance. I patched the target and shot another string, and wind had blown it all over the place. I need practice!
You'll note that my homemade shoot nc worked quite well. I was able to see the bullet holes at 15x power at 300 yds. I found the method to make these targets online, and I will summarize it here. You will need bristol board (white or bright orange), clear packing tape and dispenser, gloss black spray paint, and bright pink spray paint. Completely tape over one side of the bristol board with the packing tape, then get a good coating of black spray paint on it and let it dry 10 min. Then use a mask to spray a pink aiming dot. Let it dry overnight, and that's it.
Only downside to the day was the mosquitoes had it out for me.
Anyway, I'm hoping we have some 22 precision matches at my club next year!
EDIT: One thing I forgot to add. I'm not 100% sure if I'm happier with the single stage trigger I bought, or if I would be happier with a 2-stage. The single stage is more challenging to shoot, but it's better practice because it's closer to a good factory centerfire trigger like an accutrigger.

Dlask: 30 MOA Receiver, Maple Leaf Charging Handle, Receiver Pins, Bolt Buffer
Kidd: Bolt, Single Stage Trigger 2 lbs
Shilen 16" SS match bull barrel
Tactical Solutions Vantage RS Stock
Burris Sig Zee Rings
Nightforce 3.5-15, NPR2, zero stop and HS turrets upgrade
Ruger Small parts (screws, v-block)

I really like the receiver because it has a built in scope rail (which is stronger), and it has a 30 MOA cant for long range shooting. The stock is great because a) it has an aluminum pillar, it's tight on the rear of the receiver, and it supports the front of the barrel, so I felt I could skip bedding (which is always such a drag to do).
The home gunsmithing part of this build had three main components. First I had to file the receiver a tiny bit so the bolt would fit inside. Second I had to relieve the bottom of the stock with my dremel sanding drum so that the Kidd trigger pack would fit. Third, I had a hell of a time seating the barrel in the receiver. I decided to go for whatever interference fit the two parts would give me. I got the shank a little way in with hammering the receiver with the barrel in my barrel vise, then used an adjustable wrench on the front of the receiver to try to get good alignment for the extractor cut-out, and hammered it some more with my deadblow hammer to end up getting it stuck with it half way in. I ended up taking it to my buddy's house and his 2 ton arbor press was just able to get it seated. I got lucky with really good extractor alignment in the cutout. The barrel's v-block cutout was a little off relative to the receiver, but I'd rather go by how the extractor looks in the cutout, and besides by that point it would be impossible to rotate it due to the really tight interference fit. I don't think I'd want to attempt this step again.
Today I took it to the range.

I tested it with a little Win T22, but mostly SK standard plus, SK rifle match, and Lapua Center X. I shot for accuracy at 50 yds, giving the rifle some rounds between ammo to acclimate the barrel, and not using the first shot (chambered by hand) for the group. At 50 yds I found the following groups (although keep in mind I'm not an amazing bench shot). Groups are 5 shot, size given in sixteenths of an inch:
Win T22: 16, 18
Sk Std Plus: 12, 12
Sk Rifle Match: 6, 7, 7, 9, 10
Lapua Center X: 4, 8, 10, 11, 12
I don't know if I was getting tired by the end with the Center X. The Rifle Match was very nice, average group just under half an inch.
At 100 yds I shot with more SK RM, and I found five shot groups in sixteenths of an inch: 12, 14, 17, 24. I was really excited at the 12/16 (3/4") group!
At 200 yds I shot a group of 9 rounds into a cheapo brand shoot NC target, the horizontal was ~2" and the vertical was 5", 3.25" for 8 of 9 shots.
At 300 yds I tested my homemade shoot NC target.

It must've been really calm during this string because horizontal was only ~3", while vertical was ~ 12". I'm guessing the vertical dispersion is due to ammo variance. I patched the target and shot another string, and wind had blown it all over the place. I need practice!
You'll note that my homemade shoot nc worked quite well. I was able to see the bullet holes at 15x power at 300 yds. I found the method to make these targets online, and I will summarize it here. You will need bristol board (white or bright orange), clear packing tape and dispenser, gloss black spray paint, and bright pink spray paint. Completely tape over one side of the bristol board with the packing tape, then get a good coating of black spray paint on it and let it dry 10 min. Then use a mask to spray a pink aiming dot. Let it dry overnight, and that's it.
Only downside to the day was the mosquitoes had it out for me.
EDIT: One thing I forgot to add. I'm not 100% sure if I'm happier with the single stage trigger I bought, or if I would be happier with a 2-stage. The single stage is more challenging to shoot, but it's better practice because it's closer to a good factory centerfire trigger like an accutrigger.
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