Range Report on SVT less than satisfactory

summerside sniper

summerside sniper

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Head of St Margaret's Bay, Nova Scotia
I just took my SVT out to the range today, and although it had great groupings, it functioned poorly. Not at all what I was expecting. I was wondering if anyone could help me out in explaining some of my problems and their possible solutions.

1. When I started shooting, I put the EMPTY mag into the rifle and loaded the clip into the mag. I had troubles pushing the rounds into the mag. They didn't move in smoothly and efficiently. As well I had my first round jam as I was trying to load it.

2. My first five rounds went off smoothly and not very accurately (I had just finished running to set up so it was my fault) but when I examined the rounds, I found that two of the rounds weren't normal. One round was dented at the crimped end and another had been cut. The cuts were opposite to each other and in the same place on the brass as was the dent. All my other brass was just fine.

3. When I went for my next 5 rnds, I put the rounds into the mag manually and then put the mag into the rifle. When I went to load this time, it jammed again, and in the process of fixing it I lost my first round again.

4. When I fired this time, my first round jammed after it went off. The bolt went back about a 1/4 - 1/2" and then stopped. I couldn't pull it back or put it forward again. After talking to a person at the range (who had a Lithuanian copy of the SVT) who has similar problems, I had to remove the receiver cover and recoil spring assembly to force the bolt out by slapping it until it freed. I had to do this twice. Could this be a problem of not having enough gas getting to the piston to push the rod? If so, can someone please walk me through how to adjust the gas regulator/setting, and which way the numbers go (1-5).

5. My last problem is that I can’t tell on the receiver which arsenal made the rifle. I was wondering if someone could take a look at the pics and see if they can tell me who made it. All the stamped parts are of the same number, even the ones that marstar inscribed. It looks like the one that’s in the MilSurp Knowledge Base. I'd have pictures but I suck at taking pics and I have a question on that too which is in the newbie forum.
 
1.I had troubles pushing the rounds into the mag. They didn't move in smoothly and efficiently. As well I had my first round jam as I was trying to load it.
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Charger loading takes practice and some chargers are not very good. I have Hungarian heavy ball on chargers, and they will not function properly in any of my Soviet rifles. The jam could be the result of locked rims on the first round.

2.I found that two of the rounds weren't normal. One round was dented at the crimped end and another had been cut. The cuts were opposite to each other and in the same place on the brass as was the dent. All my other brass was just fine.
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Do you mean mangled necks on the fired cases? That's typical SVT.

3.When I went for my next 5 rnds, I put the rounds into the mag manually and then put the mag into the rifle. When I went to load this time, it jammed again, and in the process of fixing it I lost my first round again.
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See first answer.

4. When I fired this time, my first round jammed after it went off. The bolt went back about a 1/4 - 1/2" and then stopped. I couldn't pull it back or put it forward again. After talking to a person at the range (who had a Lithuanian copy of the SVT) who has similar problems, I had to remove the receiver cover and recoil spring assembly to force the bolt out by slapping it until it freed. I had to do this twice. Could this be a problem of not having enough gas getting to the piston to push the rod? If so, can someone please walk me through how to adjust the gas regulator/setting, and which way the numbers go (1-5).
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More likely the bolt move farther rearward than that, but no far enough to eject. Most likely due to gas setting. I've had this happen too. I hold the rifle in both hands and give a sharp rap to the bolt handle by banging it on a range roof support post (wooden).

The regulator can be adjusted with the issue 5 sided wrench. No wrench? Remove the handguard and unscrew the tube that fits into the gas block. When it's loose, you should be able to move the regulator with your fingers. Move to setting one higher. Tighten tube, ensuring regulator does not move. Numbers should be on top and horizontal when viewed from above.

5. My last problem is that I can’t tell on the receiver which arsenal made the rifle. I was wondering if someone could take a look at the pics and see if they can tell me who made it. All the stamped parts are of the same number, even the ones that marstar inscribed. It looks like the one that’s in the MilSurp Knowledge Base. I'd have pictures but I suck at taking pics and I have a question on that too which is in the newbie forum.
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On the front of the reciever you should find the factory mark. Izhevsk is an "arrow in triangle" and Tula is "arrow in star" or a plain star.
 
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I had a SVT 40, when it came to me it was on the lowest gas setting. It would not throw the brass very far, and it would put a dent into it. I experimented with each setting until I was at the second highest. Then the brass was thrown much further and it generally didn't dent the cases.

I never experienced the jambing problems with my SVT.

Info on the makes can be found at http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/svt40/index.asp

A manual for the SVT can be found at http://world.guns.ru/rifle/rfl06-e.htm
 
Thanks Guys!

Quote:
"Do you mean mangled necks on the fired cases? That's typical SVT."


One of the two rounds was dented in. That is, as you look down into the empty space of the brass, a side was bent inwards. In the second round, it looks like someone cut the brass with tin snips. Its cut and bent inwards on both sides opposite of each other.


Quote:
"Charger loading takes practice and some chargers are not very good. I have Hungarian heavy ball on chargers, and they will not function properly in any of my Soviet rifles. The jam could be the result of locked rims on the first round."

I think that my ammo is the Hungarian Heavy Ball. Dark, dirty looking brass all over. That would explain those problems.


Thanks everybody for all your help
 
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One of the two rounds was dented in. That is, as you look down into the empty space of the brass, a side was bent inwards. In the second round, it looks like someone cut the brass with tin snips. Its cut and bent inwards on both sides opposite of each other.
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So the dent was in the body of the case and not the neck?

The cuts were in the same part of the case as the dent? A pic would be nice, you can email it to me and I'll post it, if you're unable.

The Hungarian heavy ball is copper washed steel, hence the "dirty brass" appearance.
 
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The SVT, like the SKS, often dents the empties on the way out. It's because the bolt carrier slams the ejecting round on the way forward, flining it somewhere between 2 and 3 o'clock.

The first round jam problem is a common one on the recent imports. The importer often riveted the mag body slightly too far up. The last round is tough to get in and gives the bolt/carrier system some gremlins. Try another mag, or re-rivet it about 0.5cm lower. Just make sure it won't quite load a 6th round, or you'll be in big trouble with the geheimstatzspolitzei... err... Federal law enforcement officers.
 
I've been told that steel cased ammo simply will not work, or will work very poorly in SVTs, and I know of at least one person who had their SVT leave the neck of a steel cased round in the chamber, requiring a gunsmith to get it out.

Can't say from personal experience, as I've never tried using steel cased ammo in my SVT, but it does function quite well with the Igman stuff.
 
I've been told that steel cased ammo simply will not work, or will work very poorly in SVTs, and I know of at least one person who had their SVT leave the neck of a steel cased round in the chamber, requiring a gunsmith to get it out.
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That's what it was designed to use and it's all I've ever shot in my SVT.

Torn neck could be the result of overly violent extraction caused by too high a gas setting. The case is being extracted before the chamber pressure has dropped enough.
 
Well, alot of those Russian Rifles don't even come close to
Mauser quality, fit or finish. Get a K98, there's nothing to Bit*h about! :puke:
 
Coyote Ugly said:
Well, alot of those Russian Rifles don't even come close to
Mauser quality, fit or finish. Get a K98, there's nothing to Bit*h about! :puke:
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I plan on eventually having a service rifle from the Axis and all the Allies:
Mauser K98K - Germany
Lee Enfield - Canada
Garand - US (I have to finish paying it off)
SVT and/or Mosin Nagant - Russia

I plan on having them in a state where they are in good shooting condition to fire at the range.
 
Calum said:
Did they make a K98 in semi auto? :rolleyes:
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In this case Summerside might be better off with something that works and is reliable like a Nagant.

A bolt action will beat a Jam-O-Matic any day on the range.
 
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First of all, before shooting any SVT, whether it is 38 or 40, you should do a full strip and cleaning. Particular attention has to be paid to cleaning the Revelli grooves in the chamber with a wire brush. They have to be clearly identifyable and equally deep. There is a stong flow of blowby gases in SVT and there is a lot of deposits in the grooves in almost every rifle. Regular cleaning of the chamber is an absolute must for SVT.
Next important thing is cleaning of the gas piston. Tighten the piston after cleaning, as gases shall escape thru the threading if not tight enough.
I think that initial setting of the gas regulator should be 1.3 at all times. If after thorough cleaning of the chamber it still jams, put it to 1.5. If it still jams, there is something else wrong as 1.7 is extremely high setting as I understand.
Remember to clean the grooves in the action, in which the bolt carrier slides back and forth. There is usually lots of gunk there mixed with brass shavings etc. Lubricate with a drop of oil and put a drop of oil into the hole in which the oprod moves.
I do not feed the mag with the stripper clips - they simply do not work. I think, that one of two: there was a special SVT clip which was different from rough Mosin clips in design (Mosin clips have square grooves and SVT cut for the clip seems too small for them), or the whole feeding from the clip was a never finished project.
Yes, you have to observe the order of the rims - the first round's rim is behind the following round's - otherwise it will jam, like Mosin or any other rimmed cartridge gun.
 
svt-40 said:
I do not feed the mag with the stripper clips - they simply do not work. I think, that one of two: there was a special SVT clip which was different from rough Mosin clips in design (Mosin clips have square grooves and SVT cut for the clip seems too small for them), or the whole feeding from the clip was a never finished project.
Yes, you have to observe the order of the rims - the first round's rim is behind the following round's - otherwise it will jam, like Mosin or any other rimmed cartridge gun.
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My SVT-40 (41 Tula) feeds just fine with stripper clips. Quicker than my 91/30 or my M39. Although this is with the districorp Hungarian stripper clips. These clips work reloaded with heavy ball or czech silvertip for me.

I do get about 1 in 50 that won't fit though, so I think the problem with yours, and many other peoples SVT's is due more to variations in individual rifles. What kind of stripper clips are you using, the reproductions one sold on e-bay are notoriously useless.
 
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Like what was posted in that it is very important that the "fluting" in the chamber is absolutely clean and the gas system is generally set on 1.5. I have had 3 SVT's and they shoot without any trouble at all once you get used to cleaning them properly and loading the mag just like you load an enfield. The ball I use is the Hungarian heavy which the SVT can handle without any problems. As a side thought, when I had a Finnish M27, the ball went in quite easily and came out with resistance. Could be the reason why the SVT has a fluted chamber to "float" the brass for extraction
 
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