Rapine bullet mould

Beater

Beater

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anyone have any experiance with this brand?
i have bought a new old stock .577 - 510 gr nose pour hollow base mould for the 1853.
i can NOT get it to pour. it will not fill the bottom skirt, no matter what i do. hot mould, cold lead, hot hot lead, just will not work. anyone have any tips, ideas? it usually leaves about 1/3 of the skirt missing.
 
We use a few Rapine moulds and don't have a problem with them, first make sure there is nothing on inside of mould such as grease, oil, etc.Clean mould with rubbing alchohol, make sure, mould is functioning properly,( plug for skirt centers properly) etc.....if this all checks out and you still don't get complete fillout, you could add more tin unless you have already done so, if this doesn't help....either the mould is not hot enough, or the melt is not hot enough, or both, crank it up!! Make a few quick measurements of the plug,make sure there is enough void around the plug for lead to flow!!! They may have installed a wrong size plug!!
 
i did not relise rapine is still going? the plug looks ok, and im usuing straight wheel weights. i cleaned with aalcohol, and made sure everthing is clean. i ran the lead temp up to over 700 deg and it still wouldnt pour. i put the mould in the lead for longerr than i wanted to at the end to hot it up to, nothin worked. where abouts does one find his mould prep?
 
Iv'e always had a problem with wheelweights and muzzleloaders, never could get the darn things to pour, and all that antimony/tin is not helpful to accuracy i find, as it always varies from pot to pot.

Even burning it off and fluxing didn't seem to do it for me!

Go to pure lead and after cleaning the mould really well, light a candle and smoke the inside of the mould, also experiment with the angle you hold the mould at as you pour. It does make a difference!

Never could get a P53 to shoot with wheelweights, and i tried, boy, did i try!!

Let us know how you get on...............Regards.
 
ive used a lee 577 mould with wheel weights, and had no trouble. and you are correct, if i hold the mould at an angle, it almost filles the skirt. i also know th carbon trick, and i used the accetalyne torch to carbon it up good.
i dunno, its the first time ive had a mould like this, and thought maybe it was just the design.
 
The wheelweights don't help, I use pure lead and a little tin mixed in to help the pour, I still think the main problem is not enough heat, try 800 degrees or more!
 
800 degrees? i thought it was a bad thing to get it up that hot? allways found it to be good around the 650 mark, but hey, im willing to try anything at this point
 
trials and tribulations of casting

Beater said:
800 degrees? i thought it was a bad thing to get it up that hot? allways found it to be good around the 650 mark, but hey, im willing to try anything at this point
Click to expand...
I cast for my P53 and sniders and use lots of wheel weights... its free:D
get the lead hot...flux and keep cooking it...get all the crap skimed off.
soft lead is the best for these rifles...also the angle you hold the mold at and the speed you do the pour make a differance...hard to describe it...just keep working at it.
I usually throw about half a dozen if not more back in the pot before my mould is hot enough to cast well...now I do it without thinking...which is why i,m sitting here scratching my head trying to tell you how to do it.
by the way...800f sounds about right with some moulds ,but do it outside and upwind

anymore snider and p53 shooters out there?:D
 
beater for a good prep use soap stone. That white marker welders use on steel cover the whole inside of your mould and the top and the bottom of your sprew plate.
Also check your vent lines use a razor knife and make sure they don't have any debris in them.
Get that lead up to 800F if that don't work sell the mould on ebay and double your money.
Ken.
 
i got it to work today, cooked the lead bigtime, fluxed it a few times.
that hellped, but it still wasnt doing so good. so.... i took the mould right apart, and there was a bunch of ??? under the centre pin. i cleaned it up with degreaser, and blew it dry. 100% now. i washed it 3 times with degreaser , but it was in underneath, where the airgap is, shes good now
 
Try pouring different, , if one does not work, I go the other, and sometimes regulate temp this way to. Try getting your ladel , or what ever they call that lyman jobie right into the hole in the spru plate, then tilt it up. The other method is to have it one inch or so away ,and drop the lead in that way.
Hope this helps.
 
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