Raw Linseed Oil

Ramnon

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Chilliwack, BC
I'm having trouble finding a good quality unrefined raw linseed oil(cold-pressed). I know Garandgear.com sells some in a kit, but unfortunately they don't ship to Canada. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Lee Valley.
Although it is expensive and the last 1L container I bought, I went to Rona and bought Recochem Raw Linseed Oil for much cheaper.

I'm familiar with the write up on Garandgear's website and have a hard time believing the sun won't break down all of these oils.
Me thinks they want to sell oil and refinishing packages....
 
Both the US and Canadian Armies specified raw linseed oil to treat/condition rifle stocks while in service use. We used raw linseed for FN stocks as well. I recall getting large cans of it for use after a period in the field. Both Linseed and gun oils oxidize in the wood over time and cause the reddish color that is seen in military stocks. I'd recommend raw linseed from any source such as Cdn Tire, Rona, Pro Hdwre or Home Depot. Make sure not to use boiled linseed as that is a different product. When applying linseed it can be rubbed in in small quantities with a rag or the palm of the hand taking care to avoid a build up on the surface of the wood. If you allow an accumulation on the surface of the wood it won't dry properly and will make a gooey mess. Make sure that oily rags are properly disposed of as a precaution against spontaneous combustion.
 
The best raw linseed oil you can get is used for artist oil painting. At the link below you also have cold pressed and "stand oil" which is actual boiled linseed oil.
Any of the artist grade linseed oils from any company can be used and can be purchased at craft hobby stores. The craft hobby store near me carry Grumbacher raw linseed oil and that's all I use.

Gamblin Refined Linseed Oil
http://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-refined-linseed-oil/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=00456-1205&gclid=CPKKkNOy3cwCFdNahgodEIAPTA

Grumbacher Linseed Oil Medium for Oil Paintings, 8 Oz. Can, #558-8
http://www.amazon.com/Grumbacher-Linseed-Medium-Paintings-558-8/dp/B001OV925I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463361176&sr=8-1&keywords=grumbacher+linseed+oil

Grumbacher Linseed Oil Medium for Oil Paintings, 2-1/2 Oz. Jar, #5582
http://www.amazon.com/Grumbacher-Linseed-Medium-Paintings-5582/dp/B002643E4W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463361311&sr=8-2&keywords=grumbacher+linseed+oil

Raw vs. Boiled Linseed Oil
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621285
 
I used the Boiled version for my stock, didn't realize the Raw stuff was plentiful. Next refinishing project I have, I'll try it.
 
Can you share your unconventional curing technique? =)

I just refinished a M38 stock with multiple coats of RLO, and Ive heard that it takes "weeks" to cure?

Canadian Tire sells raw linseed oil. I've used this product to restore/refinish milsurp stocks with successful results, albeit I used unconventional curing techniques -

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/recochem-linseed-oil-raw-1-l-0489624p.html#.Vzi4tPkrLIU

http://www.recochem.com/products/wood_stone_treatments/raw_linseed_oil

http://www.recochem.com/media/uploads/downloads/Boiled_Linseed_Oil_Brochure_EN_062915_WEB.pdf

Brookwood
 
Hello

No problem, no trade secrets here! I refinished an SVT 40 stock and I wanted to achieve the 'milsurp' look, so that meant using linseed oil. Having a background in museum Conservation techniques (including chemistry), I researched what factors influence the drying time and quality of finish of linseed oil. Aside from the normal refinishing practices ( surface prep, humidity, ect ) I discovered there are 2 main variables that will speed up the cure time of linseed oil - exposure to oxygen and ultra violet 'A' light (UVA).

Supplying oxygen was no problem, that just meant setting up some fans pointed at the stock. But what about an affordable, readily available source of UVA light?

Well, there is the Sun...but that was not what I was trying to do with my little experiment, and this was done in the middle of winter, so setting them outside was not an option.

I looked into all sorts of commercial and industrial UV bulbs, but I found that A) I could find great manufacturer data to support the UVA output claim, but the bulbs were ridiculously expensive or B) Absolutely no evidence aside from the manufacturer claiming it did, but the bulbs were cheap. And then I saw a commercial for a pet store that showed a lizard on a rock under a bulb and I knew I had found my source.

So what I did was go to the pet store and bought some lizard aquarium heat bulbs. There are many types of light bulbs on the market that claim to produce UVA,UVB and UVC, but I found that because the products sold in the pet industry are subject to one form or another of Government regulated standards, the UV emitting bulbs sold in pet stores had the most readily available supporting documents to quantify their advertised UVA emissions, and they were affordable ($10-30).

I took the bulbs (100W) , set them up in some old photography flood lights, set up some fans, turned off the other lights (so that the only light was UVA), placed the stock over some mirrors ( to bounce the light into all the nooks and crannies) and let it 'dry' overnight. And it worked.

As a control, I used 1 stock that was similar in wood density, subjected to the same refinishing techniques and products but I did not use the UVA/directed fans drying technique on it.

The next day the stock that was subjected to the UVA/directed fans was dry to the touch, the one that was not was still very tacky. I found that I could rapidly build up coats of real, raw linseed oil in a fraction of the time using this technique as compared to letting it dry the conventional way.

So there you go! Some UVA emitting lizard bulbs from Petland, 4 fans from Value Village, some mirrors and some old spotlights and you can drastically reduce the drying time of raw linseed oil finishes.

Here’s a link to something similar –
https://oricalcum.uk/blogs/updates/52222147-linseed-oil-paint-drying-times-and-uv-light

73
Brookwood
 
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As a professional violin (well, double bass) maker, I have a trade secret for excellent "raw" linseed oil for finishing... The trick is to pre-polymerize it and get rid of the gunky lignan.

Buy raw, pure, edible flaxseed oil (exactly the same thing as linseed oil) from the grocery store. Fill a mason jar half way with it -- and fill up to about 3/4 with water. Shake the crap out of it... and leave it in the sun. Next day: shake the crap out of it and leave it in the sun. Do that for a few days... You'll see gunk..... Decant it (or not) and just leave it in the sun for a few weeks. It will deepen in colour. Decant again if necessary and keep it in glass bottle... You'll have a superior drying oil that is totally, totally non-toxic.

Some commercial "boiled" linseed oils have toxic metallic dryers -- and they shouldn't be used on something handled so much. Raw flax/linseed oil is full of lignans that never really dry or polymerize -- they just get in the way for the oil's dry film strength and slow drying time.

This stuff kicks quite quickly in air and room temperature, but as mentioned, UV is a good kicker.... but it's waaaay less necessary with this recipe.

Turps not necessary.... and it's even a bit detrimental to film strength... but that's getting pretty picky. That's why it dies faster... because the film is compromised by tiny channels and fissures.... But it's just a gun stock, not a wooden space shuttle.
 
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As a professional violin (well, double bass) maker, I have a trade secret for excellent "raw" linseed oil for finishing... The trick is to pre-polymerize it and get rid of the gunky lignan.

Buy raw, pure, edible flaxseed oil (exactly the same thing linseed oil) from the grocery store. Fill a mason jar half way with it -- and fill up to about 3/4 with water. Shake the crap out of it... and leave it in the sun. Next day: shake the crap out of it and leave it in the sun. Do that for a few days... You'll see gunk..... Decant it (or not) and just leave it in the sun for a few weeks. It will deepen in colour. Decant again if necessary and keep it in glass bottle... You'll have a superior drying oil that is totally, totally non-toxic.

Some commercial "boiled" linseed oil have toxic metallic dryers -- and they shouldn't be used on something handled so much. Raw flax/linseed oil is full of lignans that never really dry or polymerize -- they just get in the way for the oil's dry film strength and slow drying time.

This stuff kicks quite quickly in air and room temperature, but as mentioned, UV is a good kicker.... but it's waaaay less necessary with this recipe.

Turps not necessary.... and it's even a bit detrimental to film strength... but that's getting pretty picky. That's why it dies faster... because the film is compromised by tiny channels and fissures.... But it's just a gun stock, not a wooden space shuttle.

Totally agree with everything you say here, I've heard the technique referenced in other manuals and it makes sense chemically.

Thanks for the tip, I will try this out.

"But it's just a gun stock, not a wooden space shuttle" - priceless.

Brookwood
 
You could likely come up with be a better riff on the process once you put your mind to it -- but the basic idea is sound. I haven't done it in years.
 
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