Re-assembly of 1911A1 Question

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Publican

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When reassembling my 1911 after cleaning, I had a hell of a time getting the slide stop back in. The issue seemed to be the plunger - I finally manually pulled it back to allow the stop pin to go through.

Is this normal?
 
It can be normal on a new gun... Sometimes they plunger is a bit stiff for the first few times but they usually break in a bit after that. What 1911 is it?
 
Publican said:
When reassembling my 1911 after cleaning, I had a hell of a time getting the slide stop back in. The issue seemed to be the plunger - I finally manually pulled it back to allow the stop pin to go through.

Is this normal?
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Norinco 1911, eh?

Some slide stops are not shaped or finished right, where they touch the plunger. Some plungers do not move freely in the plunger tube possibly because of roughness in the plunger and/or tube. Problem can be simple lack of lubrication. A combination of these factors will contribute to slide stop insertion difficulties.

If the problem persists, replace slide stop with a Colt original. That's what I did to two Norkies, which also solved the intermittent failure of slide to lock open on last shot.

Sometimes it is just a matter of getting the wiggling technique right.

A jeweler's screwdriver to push in the plunger works all the time.
 
If you don't have much experience reassembling a 1911 it can take a bit of practice. Having to pull the slide back usually means the barrel bushing is a tight fit and that is a good thing. It will wear over usage and will become easier to work with. I recomend putting some electrical tape above and bellow the slide stop to prevent putting a newbie scratch on your new gun. That can be very upsetting to put a big scratch in the frame or slide and it's very easy to do. Good luck and welcome to the 1911 addiction!
 
The plunger is supposed to be retained within the plunger tube. On some examples of 1911, the plunger - when not contained by the slide stop - extends from the plunger tube beyond the normal range, far enough that the slide stop is actually on top of it and, therefore, cannot compress it in the intended manner. In such cases you can employ a tool (such as the one pictured below) to pre-compress the plunger.

If you'd rather not be needing a tool to reassemble your 1911, a competent pistolsmith can fix it for you, quickly and easily.

Armorer Tool, Flat Dark Earth

* SKU #:100-003-709
* Mfr:10-8 PERFORMANCE LLC

* Mfr. Part:TOOLFDE

* Retail Price:$7.95
* Status:In Stock

p_100003709_1.jpg


Handy tool of extremely tough, non-marring glass-reinforced nylon is perfect for prying and pushing applications where a metal tool can damage the part or gun finish. Rigid chisel point on one end is useful for depressing springs and spring-loaded parts—even use to thread MOLLE straps through webbing—while the semi-flexible flat blade on the other end can get into tight spots or serve as a temporary shim. Great to have around during disassembly of semi-auto pistols like the 1911, Glock, or Smith & Wesson M&P or when working on service rifles like the AR-15/M16. Multiple ridges molded into the grasping area in the middle of the tool help prevent slippage when working with oily or greasy hands Mfg: 10-8 Performance Llc SPECS: Glass reinforced nylon, Black, Flat Dark Earth, or Foliage Green. Approximately 5” (12.7cm) long, ź” (6.4mm) diameter.
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Thanks all - Wendell in particular. I will wear my newbie scratch badge with pride and blame my female shooting partner - even tho her Commander remains pristine. I have made a hardwood depressor for future takedowns so that should resolve the issue.
 
I'm going to have to make sure I don't put the noobie scratch on my sig 1911 when it shows up. That would be painful to do to a brand new gun.
 
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