Re-finishing a CZ-858

Zygy

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London On.
Is there a different method other than sand blasting to take off the finish? Maybe some kind of chemical or anything like that? If anyone has any info, it would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Zygy
 
I don't think you want to sand blast, that's much too aggressive. I would bead blast which is the same kind of process except using very small glass balls instead of sand. It does a nice job with minimal risk of damage. Be cautious on aluminum though, or you can erode the metal, keep the nozzle back a fair ways and keep it moving back and forth.
 
Zygy said:
Is there a different method other than sand blasting to take off the finish? Maybe some kind of chemical or anything like that? If anyone has any info, it would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Zygy

try spray CIRCA 1850 FURNITURE STRIPPER ($4.50 at homedepot), wipes off in 5 min. if it doesnt work to your satifaction then go to blasting.
 
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There is a process called soda blasting - check your yellow pages to see if there is someone in your area doing it. It doesn't even cause the substrate to heat up, it's easier to clean up and it removes only the coating, leaving the metal full thickness underneath. Then again a simple hot tanking might get the epoxy off an 858.
 
Metal work or woodwork? The bluing if your satisfied with the polish only needs to have any oily residue removed if your going to paint, warm water wash and soak, good rinse. Chemical finish buff and polish to remove any of the old finish, then a hot water wash, a good place to do this is an automotive engine rebuilder with a hot tank, and a super rinse use cotton gloves over disposable latex for final handling, finish as per manufacturing instructions, best left to professionals with the necessary tanks.
Woodwork go to CZ for original finish, if it's an oil finish go to library most older gun books or furniture books have the story. If it's a coating get it's name and go to a paint store and get a stripper that's suited and refinish to your liking.
 
The finish seems pretty durable. I'd probably just use some emery cloth(120-180) to scuff it up a bit, fill any defects with glazing putty or body filler, de-grease and then paint right over top.
 
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What are you going to refinish it with?
If you are thinking Armacoat or gun kote type finishes then you need to rough the surface up so the paint will adhere.
In other words..you need to blast it.
Do not use silica sand, soda or glass beads. They will not rough the surface up enough.
Use aluminum oxide in 80 to 120 grit at 40 psi.
 
Striker said:
What are you going to refinish it with?
If you are thinking Armacoat or gun kote type finishes then you need to rough the surface up so the paint will adhere.
In other words..you need to blast it.
Do not use silica sand, soda or glass beads. They will not rough the surface up enough.
Use aluminum oxide in 80 to 120 grit at 40 psi.

+1 blasted and painted several guns using the above method and all came out great and have been very durable.Have used both gunkote and brownells baking lacquer.
 
Zygy said:
Thanks for the info Guys!
Well,I think Im gonna to scuff it with emery cloth and put couple of coats of
GunCoat.
Zygy
Don't be surprised if the finish doesn't adhere very well.
 
Striker said:
Don't be surprised if the finish doesn't adhere very well.

I've never used gunkote or armacote before.
Do these paint's really require more then typical paint prep?
I'm not going to argue against blasting the finish and parkerizing etc. but are you saying that these paints will not adhere to any surface other then sand blasted/parkerized metal?
Is there a primer that will help these paints stick to the epoxy or whatever paint that is allready on the CZ 858?
 
Get some paint stipper from your favorite hardward store, clean off all residue, degrease (parkerizing may follow if so desired), and finally paint/coat the gun.
 
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