Undertightened, overtightened, all that assume the machining was correct. I suspect sometimes they turn them until they can't turn them any further, and that results in over or under rotation, or other times they just stop when it looks right to the guy doing the work, and it might be loose or tight, and still a degree or two out. And to add to all that, if you are using the front sight as the indicator for position, you might be surprised to find out it's not machined consistently either. Don't get me wrong, I think these are good guns, but you could probably do well to pull 25 of them apart, and take the time to mix and match parts until you found the best combination for most. One part might be oversize and compensate for another that's undersize. If your the unlucky guy that gets all the undersized parts, your barrel probably doesn't tighten until it's 5 degrees off ideal and your brass stretches.
Re-indexing a barrel at home ?
- Thread starter arcaner
- Start date
When torquing a bolt for clamping purposes applying a lubricant or having dirty threads would alter the friction coefficient measured by the torque wrench. The torque wrench measures the twisting force to determine the clamping force of the bolt. So agreed - using a lubricant on bolt threads requires far less torque to get the equivalent clamping force compared to dry bolt threads.
The difference is the M14 barrel torque is not being calibrated for clamping purposes but rather is just being snugged to a set index point then retained with a screw. Applying a lubricant in this instance should have little influence on the task other than decreasing friction and preventing moisture from entering the threads - which I think is a good thing. The biggest problem with the Chinese M14 barrels is thread timing which I am assuming is why they come with the retaining screw.
If you don't have the proper tools or haven't done the job before, leave the task to someone who has the experience doing the job........or have someone who has done this instruct you while you do it.....
You require:
-Action Wrench
-Barrel Vise/clamp
-A couple straight edges to align the barrel
To re-barrel/re-index a barrel, that pesky set screw need to be drilled out.This can be a pain in the A$$........
the barrels of any of my builds...........
Personally I have never used any type of "Ant-seize" or thread compound on the barrels of any of my builds...........
You require:
-Action Wrench
-Barrel Vise/clamp
-A couple straight edges to align the barrel
To re-barrel/re-index a barrel, that pesky set screw need to be drilled out.This can be a pain in the A$$........
the barrels of any of my builds...........
Personally I have never used any type of "Ant-seize" or thread compound on the barrels of any of my builds...........
Anythings possible. It might unscrew easily, or not. Someone unscrewed mine with a pen knife while I waited in line at Hungry's clinic for a spot at the vice.
It was a slot headed set screw. It went in with some sort of screwdriver, and it came out that way. If its not buggered up, it may come out like it went in.
Almost everyone I have seen needed to be drilled out.........A screwdriver would not work..........If you are one of the lucky ones, it may come out easily using a screw driver......
However if you need to drill it out, use a drill press and NOT a hand held drill.........
Indexing is pretty easy as long as you have the right tools. Skullboy has covered it well both here and in the often underviewed stickies.
The first step in any chinese receiver is the damn set screw. Older rifles imported prior to 2009 were often impossible to remove and required drilling out on a press with an end mill or drill bit. Hardness of this stupid screw varies from super hard and brittle (use an end mill) or butter, more suited to a decent carbide steel drill bit.
I only recommend removeal if rebarrelling or if index has been originally set past top dead center. If it just needs a degree or so of tightening, the set screw can stay in place. Over tightened/indexed barrels should have the torque shoulder verified and corrected and then reinstalled to correct index alignment.
I have found on the vast majority of 2009 and newer rifles, the set screws are MUCH easier to remove. A good fitting jewelers screw driver with a vice grip attached for leverage works very well.
While one requires a proper barrel vice to clamp the barrel, a receiver wrench is quite easy for the do it yerselfer to make.
1 piece 1" square tube steel , 3 ft long
1 piece 1" square tube steel 6 " long
Lay out 2 5/8 holes, just wider than the receiver in one end of bothe pieces.
Use 2 structural steel 9/16 bolts nuts n washers about 7 or so inches long.
Done like dinner
and WAY cheaper that ordering the brownells version.
The first step in any chinese receiver is the damn set screw. Older rifles imported prior to 2009 were often impossible to remove and required drilling out on a press with an end mill or drill bit. Hardness of this stupid screw varies from super hard and brittle (use an end mill) or butter, more suited to a decent carbide steel drill bit.
I only recommend removeal if rebarrelling or if index has been originally set past top dead center. If it just needs a degree or so of tightening, the set screw can stay in place. Over tightened/indexed barrels should have the torque shoulder verified and corrected and then reinstalled to correct index alignment.
I have found on the vast majority of 2009 and newer rifles, the set screws are MUCH easier to remove. A good fitting jewelers screw driver with a vice grip attached for leverage works very well.
While one requires a proper barrel vice to clamp the barrel, a receiver wrench is quite easy for the do it yerselfer to make.
1 piece 1" square tube steel , 3 ft long
1 piece 1" square tube steel 6 " long
Lay out 2 5/8 holes, just wider than the receiver in one end of bothe pieces.
Use 2 structural steel 9/16 bolts nuts n washers about 7 or so inches long.
Done like dinner
and WAY cheaper that ordering the brownells version.Greasing the barrel threads for barrel installations is a standard Gunsmithing practice to prevent galling.Re:
[youtube]Ix-g5aYEwhE&feature=player_detailpage#t=62s[/youtube]
I use a manual impact driver like the one below with a slotted bit. Secure the the action in a vice then insert the slotted bit on the screw and hammer on the driver, it loosens the screw out assuming you haven‘t damaged the slot on the head of the screw. If the screw slot is stripped go to plan B.
