Re-lining antique revolver barrels?

tiriaq said:
Good tooling is a must, if the risk of spoiling the barrel/cylinder is to be minimized.
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Agreed. I've lined a rifle before but my latest conversion of an antique to 25 acp is proving to be more of a pain than I expected. Had everything nearly done when the tool rest touched the chuck and ate the thin wall liner. :eek: I guess I gotta order another one...... :rolleyes:
 
Ouch! At least it was the liner, and not the barrel. That would have been really painful.
I've got to fire up the toolpost grinder and make some solid pilot drills for a couple of jobs that have been waiting far too long. One is a muzzleloading rifle, the other is a 1 1/2 Remington rolling block. While on the subject of liners, CrMo aircraft tubing works really well for lining ml shotgun barrels. For 12ga, take a 3/4" reamer, fit a pilot on the shank, add an extension, and pull it through. Good variety of 3/4" OD seamless available.
I think the 4130 tubing could be had in sizes that might be useful for sleeving cylinders, prior to reaming the chambers.
 
tiriaq said:
Ouch! At least it was the liner, and not the barrel. That would have been really painful.
I've got to fire up the toolpost grinder and make some solid pilot drills for a couple of jobs that have been waiting far too long. One is a muzzleloading rifle, the other is a 1 1/2 Remington rolling block. While on the subject of liners, CrMo aircraft tubing works really well for lining ml shotgun barrels. For 12ga, take a 3/4" reamer, fit a pilot on the shank, add an extension, and pull it through. Good variety of 3/4" OD seamless available.
I think the 4130 tubing could be had in sizes that might be useful for sleeving cylinders, prior to reaming the chambers.
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yea that tubing for shotgun barrels is what i mite end up having to do to my set of double barrels for my double flinter i hope i dont though :(
 
The CrMo machines better than mild steel DOM seamless. Either is OK for smoothbore barrels. Make darn sure that DOM mild steel tubing is actually seamless. Some is welded and then drawn. Also make sure there are no flaws in mild steel tube. Proof testing would probably reveal flaws, but by that stage, a lot of work has gone into the barrel. I've made smoothbore barrels from mild steel tubing, both tapered round and tapered octagon to round. It can be done, but a better grade of steel is much more machinable. The difference between 1015 and 1137 is night and day. Barrels for a double would have to be tapered, if the gun were to handle like anything other than a club.

A RIC in .38 Special. Interesting. The chambers could be reamed, sleeved and chambered, or the sleeves could be machined to fit the .450 chambers, then reamed for .38 Sleeving the barrel would be straightforeward. Going to a smaller caliber would make the sleeving easier, less worries about thinning the barrel and cylinder walls. A .38+P might be a really bad idea in a converted RIC. I would be inclined to use a slightly shorter cased wildcatted .38SP. Of course, if the gun never fell into the hands of anyone who didn't undertand that modern spec. ammunition would be a bad idea in an antique, it wouldn't matter.
 
tiriaq said:
The CrMo machines better than mild steel DOM seamless. Either is OK for smoothbore barrels. Make darn sure that DOM mild steel tubing is actually seamless. Some is welded and then drawn. Also make sure there are no flaws in mild steel tube. Proof testing would probably reveal flaws, but by that stage, a lot of work has gone into the barrel. I've made smoothbore barrels from mild steel tubing, both tapered round and tapered octagon to round. It can be done, but a better grade of steel is much more machinable. The difference between 1015 and 1137 is night and day. Barrels for a double would have to be tapered, if the gun were to handle like anything other than a club.

A RIC in .38 Special. Interesting. The chambers could be reamed, sleeved and chambered, or the sleeves could be machined to fit the .450 chambers, then reamed for .38 Sleeving the barrel would be straightforeward. Going to a smaller caliber would make the sleeving easier, less worries about thinning the barrel and cylinder walls. A .38+P might be a really bad idea in a converted RIC. I would be inclined to use a slightly shorter cased wildcatted .38SP. Of course, if the gun never fell into the hands of anyone who didn't undertand that modern spec. ammunition would be a bad idea in an antique, it wouldn't matter.
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if i get any tubing its going to be 4130 seamless from a aircraft supply

i have the barrels but there damascus and the one has a weld crack(or so it seems i still got to do the test on it) but its near the muzzle and ive been told it dont matter as much as the breech end
 
so i was thinking could i take a pre 1897 .22 rimfire(sort,long,ect) pistol and lin the chamber and rechamber it in say .22 bb cap(aka 6mm flobert) witch is shorter then a .22 short OAL .343"

sorry for the hijack
 
Should be good to go.
Any pre-'98 .22 S-L-LR pistol is going to be restricted or prohibited, so it would have to be deregistered after conversion to .22 BB Cap.
 
tiriaq said:
Should be good to go.
Any pre-'98 .22 S-L-LR pistol is going to be restricted or prohibited, so it would have to be deregistered after conversion to .22 BB Cap.
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yea kind of what i was thinking have it done before it comes here to :canadaFlag:

reason why im asking is i found a henry derringer pocket revolver in .22 rimfire (unknown witch one but my guess is .22 short) for cheap it needs a little work on the sear as the hammer will not stay cocked real low S/N 13X
but i was thinking it would make a fun plinker with my home made bb caps or RWS one's when i can find them
 
Necro-post with heavy involvement of a (Twice?) banned member, but...

Post an advert in the EE. With the handgun transfer ban, there may be parts out there that will bolt up with whatever fitting they may need.

Or shop what may be available in barrel blanks that a suitable barrel can be made and fitted.

Find someone that can cut off, then bore out the action, thread it for a screw-in barrel, and have at. Or have the new barrel silver-soldered in to the void... Refinishing will likely be required.

Personally, were it mine, I would drill the barrel out from the cylinder end, until you could almost see through it, looking through the side, leaving the taper of the drill at the muzzle, and tapering teh insert to match the drill angle. Sweat solder the thick wall liner in from the rear. The cylinder takes the brunt of the pressure, but the more barrel you can provide, seems a better choice.
 
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