re-torque the gas block on Mini 14

gommee said:
Does any-one have detailed instructions on how to properly re-torque the gas block on a Mini 14?
Is there any pros or cons in doing this?

Thank you
Click to expand...

I guess I can *grudgingly* reply to this since no one else has yet.

First, note that Ruger does not advise removing the gas block or modifying a firearm or it's parts in any way - warnings which are ephasized in a few locations in the Mini-14 instruction manuals.

Note also that the screws are staked in place at the factory to prevent them from being removed easily.

Most people take apart the gas block for one of two reasons.

The first is to clean more thoroughly. Not necessary according to Ruger and I would guess that there are probably a lot of Mini-14's in service with various people and police departments, etc... out there that continue to function reliably without it ever being done. I've done it to detail clean second hand rifles that I have received that had fired countless rounds, but the rifles showed no difference in function as a result.

The second is in an attempt to accurize the rifle. The theory is that if the screws on the gas block are tighter or looser on a given corner, this contributes to decreased accuracy. There may be truth to that, but since the gas blocks are - according to Ruger's manual - fitted in a jig and torqued to spec in the factory, and since all the home hobbyist is likely to do is just re-torque the screws... again, no real reason to do it, unless the rifle is wildly inaccurate. There are a few shops in the states that accurize Mini's and I understand that they true up and ream the bearing surfaces of the gas block. But they are also installing after market barrels, trigger parts, etc... And I've never noticed a significant improvement in them as a result. Then again, I've never really shot a Mini to test it for fine accuracy.

Ruger doesn't publish their torque specs for Joe Public. Something in the range of 14-17 foot/pounds seems to be the consensus, although some have reportedly tightened the screws much higher than that. Moreover, the specific torque does not seem to matter so much as the gap being equal between the gas blocks all the way around, and feeler gauges can be used to adjust this. The screws are tightened in small increments alternate corners and sides. That's it.

However, I have no qualifications as a gunsmith and I urge you to heed Ruger's advice:

Ruger Mini-15 manual page 25 said:
Removal of the gas block assembly is not necessary and is not advisable. The gas
block assembly is factory fitted using special fixtures and torque tools.
Attempting to fit the gas block assembly without the required special equipment
can result in damage to the components and malfunctioning of the rifle.
Click to expand...

That's the official word on the subject from the factory. Whether you choose to follow or ignore that warning is your responsibility.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your input SPI.

You are correct that it is done to "accurize" the mini 14.
It is also done to stop the casings from flying 25' into the air and lessen it's recoil.
I just found all of the instructions and specs on the Web and will re-post it once I have gone through all of the info.
Please note: the specs for re-torqueing are in inch/lbs.
 
Last edited:
I've done it a couple of times - last one was to install the Accuracy Systems adjustable gas block.

accuracysystemsinc.com

I think I got torque values from them, I'd have to to look in the basement for the instructions. Hasn't worked too well for me yet, the brass still flies thirty feet. I may need to get a smaller bushing.
 
Retourquing doesn't reduce the distance the brass is thrown, but removing the gas block to replace the gas bushing with a smaller one is an excellent way to improve the function of the rifle, IMO. I made one cuz I had a lathe, but you can buy them from a few places. Brass flies about 4 feet now, and the recoil feels much less violent and jarring.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom