I found this on the Internet and thought I could share it with every-one:
Page 1
GAS BLOCK
There have been many questions on the proper way to remove, the "Gorilla Tight" and staked gas block screws. Why does anyone even want to remove them as Ruger says this should be done only at the factory? Well I can give you 2 good reasons, and some tips so any one can do it.
1. Gapping and torqueing your gas block halves may improve accuracy by giving even clamping pressure to the barrel, and reduce barrel friction (Heat and fouling).
2. Adjusting the harsh backstroke of the "Slide Assembly" into the receiver, by replacing the "Gas Port Bushing" with a smaller after market bushing. This gives you less felt recoil, longer scope life, and better muzzle control during rapid fire on both Ranch and Standard Mini's. On the Ranch Mini reduces the brass launching, and damage to the brass if you are a reloader.
How To Remove Gas Block Screws
Start with a new 9/64" Allen wrench. They wear down pretty fast. To loosen screws first time turn screws one at a time loosen 1/4 turn then tighten to break the stakes (Chisel mark in screw threads). Do this 3 or 4 times each screw. Do not attempt to remove a screw (Leave them tight) till all the stakes are broken. If you strip a screw head, tap in a torx tip in screw head and loosen screw
Page 2
Replacing the Gas Port Bushing For Reduced Felt Recoil
This is the 3 pc set from Mike Knifong. It contains 3 bushings, complete instructions, and schematic. ASI also offers a set.
The 3 bushings on the bottom of pic are the replacement Gas Port Bushings. Note the Factory one on the top is much larger.
Adjust gas pressure by selecting a suitable size. Smallest for older mini's or very hot loads, Med. for mini's well broken in and standard velocity loads, largest for new mini's or low velocity loads. My mini has 1500 rounds thru it, so the largest works best for it. The largest is still way smaller than factory. This has resulted in a reduction of brass launching & damage, also reduces felt recoil.
1. Remove your gas block screws as described in page 1.
2. Remove lower gas block half, being careful not to loose the little port bushing.
3. Swap-out bushing to new size.
4. Reassemble as described in page 3.
Note: If your rifle has any of these symptons; failure to eject, failure to feed, or trigger does not reset, then replace bushing with next larger size. If you have a "Recoil buffer" it may compound the problem. Fix by triming, or increase gas bushing size.
Page 3
How to Gap, and Torque Gas Block For Increased Accuracy
When you reassemble your gas block, put a drop of Loctite blue (medium hold) on the screw threads. This will keep them from working loose, but easy to remove when you need to. Use a feeler or leaf gauge to gap the halves evenly. Mine is aprox. .028" each side. Yours may be different.
Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern a little at a time to 24-36 in-lbs. I torque mine at 30 in-lbs using a torque wrench. NOT FT-LBS So you don't have a torque wrench, then use 1 of these methods to get close.
1. Using a regular 9/64" Allen wrench use the short end as the handle. Tighten till you think "This hurts". You can't over torque using the short end with your fingers.
2. Using a T-Handle, tighten till the blade flexes.
3. Using a magnetic screwdriver with a 9/64" Allen tip. Tighten until the feel is "just tight" NOT real tight.
Use the same feel on all 4 screws, gap halves evenly, use a gradual X pattern on the screws, just like the lug nuts on your truck wheel. Check the gap between the block halves as you go. It may take a few tries to get it right.
Now your mini may be up to 1/4" more accurate, and with the smaller bushing way-less felt recoil. Best of all you did it yourself.
I hope this helps.
Page 1
GAS BLOCK
There have been many questions on the proper way to remove, the "Gorilla Tight" and staked gas block screws. Why does anyone even want to remove them as Ruger says this should be done only at the factory? Well I can give you 2 good reasons, and some tips so any one can do it.
1. Gapping and torqueing your gas block halves may improve accuracy by giving even clamping pressure to the barrel, and reduce barrel friction (Heat and fouling).
2. Adjusting the harsh backstroke of the "Slide Assembly" into the receiver, by replacing the "Gas Port Bushing" with a smaller after market bushing. This gives you less felt recoil, longer scope life, and better muzzle control during rapid fire on both Ranch and Standard Mini's. On the Ranch Mini reduces the brass launching, and damage to the brass if you are a reloader.
How To Remove Gas Block Screws
Start with a new 9/64" Allen wrench. They wear down pretty fast. To loosen screws first time turn screws one at a time loosen 1/4 turn then tighten to break the stakes (Chisel mark in screw threads). Do this 3 or 4 times each screw. Do not attempt to remove a screw (Leave them tight) till all the stakes are broken. If you strip a screw head, tap in a torx tip in screw head and loosen screw
Page 2
Replacing the Gas Port Bushing For Reduced Felt Recoil
This is the 3 pc set from Mike Knifong. It contains 3 bushings, complete instructions, and schematic. ASI also offers a set.
The 3 bushings on the bottom of pic are the replacement Gas Port Bushings. Note the Factory one on the top is much larger.
Adjust gas pressure by selecting a suitable size. Smallest for older mini's or very hot loads, Med. for mini's well broken in and standard velocity loads, largest for new mini's or low velocity loads. My mini has 1500 rounds thru it, so the largest works best for it. The largest is still way smaller than factory. This has resulted in a reduction of brass launching & damage, also reduces felt recoil.
1. Remove your gas block screws as described in page 1.
2. Remove lower gas block half, being careful not to loose the little port bushing.
3. Swap-out bushing to new size.
4. Reassemble as described in page 3.
Note: If your rifle has any of these symptons; failure to eject, failure to feed, or trigger does not reset, then replace bushing with next larger size. If you have a "Recoil buffer" it may compound the problem. Fix by triming, or increase gas bushing size.
Page 3
How to Gap, and Torque Gas Block For Increased Accuracy
When you reassemble your gas block, put a drop of Loctite blue (medium hold) on the screw threads. This will keep them from working loose, but easy to remove when you need to. Use a feeler or leaf gauge to gap the halves evenly. Mine is aprox. .028" each side. Yours may be different.
Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern a little at a time to 24-36 in-lbs. I torque mine at 30 in-lbs using a torque wrench. NOT FT-LBS So you don't have a torque wrench, then use 1 of these methods to get close.
1. Using a regular 9/64" Allen wrench use the short end as the handle. Tighten till you think "This hurts". You can't over torque using the short end with your fingers.
2. Using a T-Handle, tighten till the blade flexes.
3. Using a magnetic screwdriver with a 9/64" Allen tip. Tighten until the feel is "just tight" NOT real tight.
Use the same feel on all 4 screws, gap halves evenly, use a gradual X pattern on the screws, just like the lug nuts on your truck wheel. Check the gap between the block halves as you go. It may take a few tries to get it right.
Now your mini may be up to 1/4" more accurate, and with the smaller bushing way-less felt recoil. Best of all you did it yourself.
I hope this helps.
