Ream a finished rifle barrel?

Ol' Flinter

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My recently-acquired, second hand black powder 45-70 Remington Rolling Block by Pedersoli would not allow .450 bullets to set up in the rifling in front of the chamber so I have had to set them well back into the case, reducing potential powder capacity. By slugging the bore I determined the groove diameter is the standard .457 but the bore diameter is .445/.446 rather than the standard .450. An experience BP shooter confirmed my observation and noted that early Pedersolis apparently had a metric equivalent to .450 that was actually .446. I do not want to lengthen the throat so my question is: could a capable barrel maker pass a .450 reamer through my barrel to relieve .002 of the rifling so I would have a proper .450 bore to work with. If so, can anyone recommend someone in Alberta or nearby?

Thx
 
I think you just need to ream the throat area to the proper dimension, to allow your bullet to enter the barrel as far as you want without pushing it back into the case. The .002 tight barrel may not be a problem with lead bullets.

You need a .450 throating reamer.

NormB
 
If anyone can, probably Ron Smith is the one that could. He's in, IIRC, Wimbourne Ab

I'd just recut the chamber and get on with it, though. Like to be his advice too, but if not that, a new barrel.

Or look at a bore rider style bullet to allow the seating out you are after.

How much you willing to spend on this, anyway? You could cut straight to the chase, and have Ron Smith put a new barrel on, and get as good as can be got.

Cheers
Trev
 
I think trying to run a .450 reamer the full lenth will most definitly ruin your barrel.

As earlier stated lenghthen freebore and use as is, or a new barrel from Ron Smith are the best options
 
A tapered bullet design may work in that chamber, and if that doesn't work, your barrel will require throating or barrel replacement. I have a series of bullet designs from Badger(famous barrel maker) where the front three bands run very small and the rear bands are .459 ish. Note also that cast bullet benchrest shooters have been sizing these front bands down to match their chambers/barrels for years. I find it easiest to size the front bands down on a Lyman type sizer as they can be set to make sure all are sized the same distance, not really possible on Star Sizers or Lee. I can provide more info if required.
 
Reaming a finished barrel.

Don't even think of it unless you want to ruin the rifling in your barrel.

Let me get this straight. Your bore diameter runs .457 but the rifling lands run .446 instead of .450, a difference of .004 inch. Because of the tighter bore diameter, you are having difficulty in seating bullets.

First of all, a reamer is NOT the way to go. Reaming the bore would result in putting a rough finish on the present rifling, which you then have to lead lap. If you do not completely smooth the bore out by rifling, then small burrs are left on the rifling in the direction of the rotation of the reamer. Not good!

What we are looking at here is a difference of .004, or a difference of two thousands of an inch on the sides of the bullet. If you are shooting Black Powder, you are probably using lead alloy cast bullets, so that difference of four thousands of an inch is not really a factor. In fact, it is a bit better, because the rifling gets a better grip on the bullet.

As an example, the original German 8 mm Mauser (8x57 I - in German 8x57 J) was a .318 bore diameter with a round nosed bullet. When the Germans changed to a lighter spitzer bullet, they changed the bore diameter to .323 and designated the cartridge the 8x57IS (or 8x57JS---the S being for Spitzer bullet and .323 bore), they left the original rifling lands the same diameter as the original cartridge, but simply made the bore bigger. This is why German Mauser Military rifles have such a prominent rifling. The difference was .005, but they still shot metal jacketed bullets out of them, at higher velocities, even though the rifling was deeper.

You do not need to ream the entire bore. Just find someone with a proper reamer for the 45-70 or a 45-70 throating reamer, and open up the throat (or leade as it is sometimes called) so that it will take your loaded cartridge.

A very simple and inexpensive solution to your problem.

I would not open up the throat TOO LONG, because if there is too much jump before the bullet reaches the rifling, accuracy could suffer. Remember that such shooters as Pope used to have a seater that would load the bullet first INTO THE RIFLING and then they would put a loaded cartridge case only into the chamber. Two seperate operations. They shot from the standing position, and look at the targets and groups they made!

In fact, many of the Custom Riflemakers will ask you what bullet you intend to use, so that they can throat the barrel for optimum performance with that particular bullet. When you go to see your gunsmith, take along a DUMMY round with the loaded length you want, so he can fit the throat of your rifle to that round.

So, if you want to bugger up your barrel, ream it full length. If you want to shoot it with some accuracy, then throat it to take your particular bullet.
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Let me elaborate. I am shooting only black powder and cast bullets of 1:30 tin:lead alloy. The bullets are from my Lyman molds, both the round nose 520 gr model 457125 Postell and pointy 480 gr 457682. Both styles are .450 diameter ahead of the forward band. I want to load the cartridge to a longer OAL so need to have the rifling relieved for about 0.25 inches ahead of the current throat by .002 so the section of the bullet ahead of the forward band can "ride the rifling". I hope to be able to seat the slugs only as deep as the forward grease groove and band. Possibly a throat reamer would do it but I cannot see how rechambering would change anything. I am not interested in re-barrelling as the gun will currently shoot 2 " groups at 100 yd with the open sights and I am merely trying to fine tune a good thing. I will consult with Ron Smith....

Thx, everyone, for your insight.
 
Gotta be something being lost in the translation, if you cannot understand why re-cutting the chamber to work with the bullets you have, how you wish to load them, when it does not work now, should be a good fix. You know, the throat being part of that chamber, and all.

Lengthening the throat, which you state that you do not want to do, is exactly the best, cheapest, and most practical solution to achieve your goal.

Ron Smith is one of the best. He should be able to set you up!

Cheers
Trev
 
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