Reamers SOLD pending funds

Mel, a complete list would really help.

One thing about buying used reamers is unless you can get very good pics, or see them up close, you are really taking a big risk.

How many cuts have been made, are they roughers or finish reamers, are any of them chipped or if re-sharpened, have they been done by someone that knows what they are doing, etc.

When buying reamers, unseen, you are buying a pig in a poke.
 
Put them under the parts and accessories of the sporting rifle and precision rifle sections of the EE and you will get some looks. Pictures are a must for these, as are the manufacturer and condition as mentioned above. If you don't know the condition then perhaps allowing a 2 or 3 day non use inspection period would be waranted, but of course there is a risk that someone would use them and send it back, but I have found that the trader rating offers a good hedge against such behavior.
 
Manufacturer and in the case of Benchrest calibers, reamer specifications should be listed or any alterations to them... Sharp clear picture of each as well... Used reamers can be worth anywhere from $20 on up...
 
I would suggest the " EXCHANGE OF ALL OTHER STUFF "
..........................."Things that are related to shooting and the military, and most reasonable stuff will be tolerated."

They are not parts or accessories...
 
I'll put in my two bits worth too, having bought a few reamers blind, over the years.

Condition! Amen!

You will narrow your potential buyers down to very few, if you are unwilling to part them out individually, IMO.

More headaches to sell them as 'each' but also potentially a better return.

A couple reamers in tubes will slide into a Express Post envelope for what $10, to the whole country? Around that, anyway. Not an onerous job. Roll them up in a sheet of foolscap, fold over the ends and tape, if there is not a tube for each.
You do not want the edges of the sharp reamers banging against each other in transit. They are cutting tools, and can be blunted quite easily if mishandled.

Make, Caliber, type of pilot (solid, or removable "live" pilot), and any markings that are on the shank, esp. if they are, say, etched on with an electric pencil in a different style from the original markings. (It's not all bad, some of the guys will mark their re-sharps when they go through their shops)

Some calibers have the option of a resharpening, others less so. Worst case, a reamer that has been sharpened already and is small, can be used as a rougher to save wear on the 'good' one.



Cheers
Trev
 
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