Rear sling stud location

FatCatsDad

FatCatsDad

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
204   0   0
Marlin 336 is the gun in question.
Is that black dot the spot to drill for the rear sling stud ?.....OR.....does that plastic insert pop out.
Seem like it would be damaged if I poke away at it, or more likely I'll damage the wood.

 
Not the point to drill for a sling stud. I have been told that it indicates a walnut stock as not all Marlins have the “bullseye”, others just say it is a decoration to make Marlins stand out on a gun rack.
 
Leaf that gawl darn eye bawl alone................:rey2
Jeeesh, sum people's kids......:runaway:

True Marlin fans git thar gincheezs awl twisted when you start pok'in them eyes.......:ang3

Drops the value tewt sweet.

Rumor hazzer that the poor kritter won't shewt werd chit iff'in you poker owt.
 
It the plastic is centered in the stock I have drilled it for a sling swivel stud. If it is off center leave it alone. I always liked to install a stud at 4 to 5 inches from the toe depending on length of pull... trying to allow for future changes in length. I have encountered many stock where the stud was close to the toe and shortening the stock also required plugging the stud hole and moving it as the stud interfered with the recoil pad screw. Hanging the stud even half way up toward the grip cap works fine too.

That plastic just looks stupid when a stud is close to it.
 
Depending on your front sling attachment/swivel arrangement, you might even consider a flush cup if your are adventurous and into anti-cowboy blasphemy :p
 
You can get straps for shotguns and levers that work great and don’t require swivels/studs. They either lace on or have leather chokers. Drilling that gun is going to hurt the value.
 
gunrunner100 said:
2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches from the toe.
Click to expand...

It may not be that "cut and dried" - I dug out several here - the only lever actions are a 22 Magnum Ruger 96 - the rear stud does not appear to be factory - installed at 1 1/4" from the toe - looks "wrong" to my eye, although probably would work fine. The other lever action is a made-in-1955 Model 94 in 30-30 - it has no studs on it.

Several bolt actions have the studs, that I think are factory installed - a Ruger 77 Compact and a Savage Axis II are at 2 1/2" from the toe. Up to a Parker Hale Model 1200 and a Schultz and Larsen Model 60 - both of them at 3 7/8" from the toe. In between, a Win Model 70 Sporter Magnum is 3" and a Husqvarna 4100 is at 2 3/4". So, of the six centre fire bolt actions that I measured, three are within that 2 1/2" to 2 3/4", but three of them measure to be longer than that. A made-in-1983 Winchester Model 70 "Westerner" in 22-250 does not have any studs. See Post #7 - likely a good reason to be longer, rather than shorter, measured from the toe.

Is several that I had got that were obviously home done - really poorly done ones are "tilted" - not in-line with, or parallel to, the vertical centreline through the butt stock. I think they also should be at right angle to the surface that they meet - in other words, sitting "square" to the wood surface, not necessarily "square" to the bore line. There are a few recessed button type here (flush cups ?) - no guts, yet, to try to install them - I suspect getting them in the correct place, and square to the wood, will be pretty important.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom