rebarrel a ruger no 1
- Thread starter 6.5x55swm
- Start date
Ruger No1 rifles aren't any more difficult to rebarrel than any other rifle for the most part.
They can be tricky to disassemble and reassemble though.
You don't mention whether or not you're going to stick to the same type of case head.
Ruger No1 rifles need different extractor arms for different case head diameters and types, such as rimmed/belted/rimless.
Whoever you send it to has to get in touch with whomever is doing Ruger warranty work in Canada and order the proper extractor arm or maybe order one out of the US.
Then, the barrel has to be fitted and almost snugged up tight to locate the area that needs to be machined in the threads to accomodate the extractor arm.
Care needs to be taken that the extractor cut away is deep enough for proper claw engagement under the rim to ensure positive extraction but not to deep either.
It's simple to figure out mathematically but a degree or two off ????????????
They can be tricky to disassemble and reassemble though.
You don't mention whether or not you're going to stick to the same type of case head.
Ruger No1 rifles need different extractor arms for different case head diameters and types, such as rimmed/belted/rimless.
Whoever you send it to has to get in touch with whomever is doing Ruger warranty work in Canada and order the proper extractor arm or maybe order one out of the US.
Then, the barrel has to be fitted and almost snugged up tight to locate the area that needs to be machined in the threads to accomodate the extractor arm.
Care needs to be taken that the extractor cut away is deep enough for proper claw engagement under the rim to ensure positive extraction but not to deep either.
It's simple to figure out mathematically but a degree or two off ????????????
I've done a few. Removing the barrel is a bit complicated because of the extension running out from the receiver. The barrel vise is further away from the receiver ring than on a bolt rifle. Less of an issue when installing the new barrel. The new barrel needs to be able to work with the forend, and with the scope mounting base. Cutting the notch for the extractor is an additional complication.
Cost will likely be higher than that for doing a R700, etc.
Rim diameter of the Swift is the same as the host of other rounds using the basic '06 diameter. The Swift is semi-rimmed, but your extractor might be OK. If you study the relationship of your extractor to the barrel cut and the chamber, you'll see that the fit is rather generous compared with many other single shots.
Cost will likely be higher than that for doing a R700, etc.
Rim diameter of the Swift is the same as the host of other rounds using the basic '06 diameter. The Swift is semi-rimmed, but your extractor might be OK. If you study the relationship of your extractor to the barrel cut and the chamber, you'll see that the fit is rather generous compared with many other single shots.
I just re-barreled a No.1 myself. Mine too was 220 Swift (slim profile), changed up to 6.5 x 47 Lapua, the original extractor worked fine with the new cartridge (a pleasant surprise). As Bearhunter said, the new barrel was on/off a couple times to get the extractor slots in the right place.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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Yeah, something tells me that it makes more sense to believe you Dennis!
I am also happy to work on No1s, Here is a 300H&H I recently put together.
Wow....
I mean, WOW....
I clicked through to the Flickr Album, and looked around....
Jayzus, I wish i had half your talent and drive!
Nicely done! Both the work shown, and the very well framed pictures of. You should do well, in any field you apply yourself to!
