Rebarreling a win 94 ?

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45C

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My buddy has a win 94 that’s keyholing his bullets and he thinks the barrel is shot out.
What’s involved in rebarreling one of these?

And more importantly, how hard is it to find a barrel?

Thanks
 
Check the first half-inch of bore at the muzzle - use a magnifying glass to search for a buildup of lead or copper on one side - it is much more likely that it is a problem in the last fraction of an inch just before the bullet leaves the muzzle. Chamfer or counterbore it just a little to bring back accuracy.

To prevent this (which is mostly caused by condensation causing rust pitting which copper and lead build up on) - just put some electricians tape over the muzzle before hunting - shoot through it.
 
I expect that to shoot out a .30-30 to the point that it no longer had hunting level accuracy would take more than 10,000 rounds. Could happen.
Bore could be damaged by neglect or abuse.

As far as rebarreling goes, strip the front end, turn off the old barrel and turn on the replacement. It will need to be the exact same variation, of course, for the bands, etc. to fit.
M94s are remarkable for the way barrels will interchange, indexing correctly without machining. Of course, headspace will have to be checked, but unless the receiver is worn to the point that the lock has set back, it should be OK.

M94 barrels aren't hard to swap with minimal tools. It is also possible to wreck the receiver.

Place a WTB ad for a take-off barrel. Should be able to find one. There have been millions of .30-30 M94s made.
 
I suggest he sell it to me. If he doesn't want to sell it, just find a good barrel from the same series of model 94 and thread it on. Winchesters are pretty good for barrels tightening on with the proper index. Check head space and if its a little to much false shoulder the brass when reloading and fire to the chamber then neck size after that.
 
45C said:
No, he said it’s 30 30.
He said he can insert a the bullet and case into the muzzle end of the barrel.
Click to expand...

Wow! Land to land diameter on 30/30 should be close to .300". Bullet diameter - therefore groove to groove diameter - should be close to .308". Neck of case is about .330" outside diameter - if he can get the case neck into the muzzle, that is one serious amount of metal that is gone - shot out, corrosion, whatever...
 
He said he’s thinking of selling it for $300.
I don’t think it’s worth that much.

I just recently purchased a 94 off the EE for $200 and it was cosmetically pooched.
16 hrs work and it’s now a $600 gun at best.
It’s an early 80s model with pre 64 parts.

So I don’t see much value in his early 70s model that needs to be rebarreled,among other things.
 
Read of a deer culler in New Zealand. He put 100,000 rounds through his 94. Killed almost that many deer. That rifle was worn out. Hard to imagine any 94 in Canada getting that much use.
 
View attachment 550870View attachment 550869View attachment 550871After some thought, I offered him the win that I recently fixed up for his gun and $400. If he accepts the offer, I’ll be looking for a barrel.
I think that’s fair as it’ll cost me a couple hundred to get his back in shape.
Here’s a few pics of the one that my buddy did for me.
Barrel reblued, wood stripped ,sanded,refinished with oil.
Barrel is as new.
I’m $250 + 10 hrs of my time into it.
And it don’t have any stamped internals.
So, what you think? Fair deal?
 
A 1970's model 94 is of very little value. The barrel is unlikely to index on one of these. It will on the pre-64's but not on the later models.
 
45C said:
It’s an early 80s model with pre 64 parts.
Click to expand...

The most important part of a pre 64 model 94 is the steel action that will take bluing..

An early 80's action was iron plated (very thinly) at the factory so it could be 'blued'... if you try and re blue a post 64 - 94 you get a mixture of weird colours
 
Thanks, its hard to get good pics of bluing, but that doesnt look like it blued real well, which is normal for a hot blue on a post 64, 94. Did it blue better then the pics say?
 
Scar270 said:
Thanks, its hard to get good pics of bluing, but that doesnt look like it blued real well, which is normal for a hot blue on a post 64, 94. Did it blue better then the pics say?
Click to expand...
My buddy only did the barrel, using dicropan, it looks 100% better .
It was in rough shape, pitted and rusted.
 
Oh, that makes way more sense. Thanks. If your gonna do the whole gun i recommend a rust blue, i have had good luck doing a rust blue in a post 64, 94
 
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