Rebuilding a 1956 BRNO Mo. 3 -Need help!-

Jahnj0584

Jahnj0584

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Finally got this from the EE, and it turns out to be a Mo 3. The original intent was to just make a stock/chassis from scratch (something I've wanted since day 1 of having a PAL) and then sell either this, or my CZ 455.

From what I read, these are the rarest of BRNO's and quite the accurate rifle. I have a dormant 4-16x scope that would work great on this.

The Bad:
Whoever had it before shortened the barrel to 20", lobbed off the end of the stock (badly!), removed the checkering and beavertail, disposed of the magwell/trigger guard, and barrel tuner and opted to make it a single shot via a pressed alu block.
One of the magwell threads are stripped, but that can be fixed with either weld, plug, or larger screw.

The Good
The trigger is very crisp and light, and the action is just as smooth as my CZ. There isn't any rust and the bluing still looks deep. The checkering left on the stock is great and old-worldly.

I will use my CZ as a reference and try to base it around using the same mags if I go through the trouble of making a magwell. My first rifle was a single shot, and I'm not bothered by reloading.

Luckily I'm a machinist and woodworker so this is all very doable on my end!

If anyone here has one of these, let alone spare parts (Magwell is main priority) I would be very happy to talk to you!



FACTORY:
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Jahnj0584 said:
It's the rarest of Brno models from what I read. Have never seen one before this example - only one video on YouTube about it!
Click to expand...

Well I can count out ever getting one then! If I were you I would maybe buy a norinco JW 15 for the parts your looking for, may be a cheaper option than seeking out Brno or cz parts
 
I think carving a Schnabel forend is going to be the best/only way fix for where they lopped it off. Taper it after the magwell, and make a new bottom metal and trigger guard.




Not sure about optics here. It uses the uncommon 15mm dovetail size and I want to put a 30mm scope (4-16x) on it.

My options are:
Tap receiver to add a piccy rail (much work, too tall, permanent)
Mill dovetail down to 11mm (seemingly best idea) and spot reblue, use any rings you want!
Mill 3/8 dovetails and add iron sights (a lot of steps involved and costs more than rings)
Find the OEM replacement irons (LOL)

As for the mag, I will have to design or find a magwell (any ideas?) or keep it single shot with the alu-block pressed in. I think that step depends a lot on how well this shoots, but I don't know that until I get an optic mounted....
 
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Jahnj0584 said:
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Not sure about optics here. It uses the uncommon 15mm dovetail size and I want to put a 30mm scope (4-16x) on it.

My options are:
Tap receiver to add a piccy rail (much work, too tall, permanent)
Mill dovetail down to 11mm (seemingly best idea)
Mill 3/8 dovetails and add iron sights (meh not on a target rifle)
Click to expand...

Maybe measure that rail again. I have a BRNO No. 1 - the rails are 16 mm. For European sizes, you measure the widest tips at the top of the dovetail. Bases made for CZ527 are for 16 mm dovetails. I removed the recoil stud in the one base - they now fit and grab perfectly onto the rails on the BRNO #1. I happened to use Warne brand rings made for the CZ 527 rifle on my BRNO #1 - likely other maker's rings might work as well??

FYI - I posted elsewhere on CGN - my first attempt to install a 2-7x33 Leupold rimfire scope - I used the Medium height rings - lots of clearance to barrel for objective end, but the bolt handle would hit the eye piece - I could either bend the bolt handle and re-inlet the stock, or use higher rings. I used the High rings and they work fine now. The OD of the eye piece is about 1.565". The rings that I used are Warne Maxima 1" 2B1LM - the 1B1LM were too low.
 
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Just buy proper rings (or a picatinny base, if that's what you like) for it.
- They are readily available

BGuAFmw.jpg

#4 action in a MDT stock and DIP Picatinny base

If you're going to carve the stock, why not splice the forehand and make it into a mannlicher target rifle?
 
You're right. 15mm is the ID and probably 16mm at the peaks. A base isn't a bad idea, but adds 70$+ to the project cost when I can mill it down to 11mm for free at work. I think the rifle has been changed too much before me, to even really worry about what's "authentic" to the gun that was made in 1956! I'm glad you guys let me know thats an option though.

What benefit is there of going through the extra work of making it a Mannlicher stock? I'm not too crazy about them aesthetically

I will already have to extend the butt stock. It currently has a 12" LOP which makes me think it was a teenager was who ruined this beaut (possibly explains the stripped mag well...)
 
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Personally, I wouldn't mill it.
- As it, even though the stock as been chopped, the action still retain good value.
- You mill it down, and it will be just another bubba creation (even though it's nicely done)... If you don't plan on ever selling it, who cares, it's your rifle, do as you want.

Mannlicher wouldn't add anything, other than make it different. If you don't like the look, doing it wouldn't make sens.
 
If you do get into milling those rails, might want to research the various sizes that standard rings are made for. European size was 11mm across top flats, and used a 60 degree cutter. North American was 3/8" (.375) at the bottom, inside narrowest part of dovetail - and used a 45 degree cutter. For a few years, CZ 452 were made with either railing - is both sizes out there - one version takes European 11 mm ring clamps and one takes North American 3/8" ring clamps.

Warne makes a ring clamp that will fit to either - has a punch mark on the moveable clamp - mark up for one size / angle, mark down for other size / angle.

In my case, I made it un-neccessarily complicated. I think the BRNO #1 has decent iron sights - I want my grandkids to learn to shoot with them. I prefer a scope with my 66 year old eyes - so I wanted a ring mount that would fit onto 16 mm rails that was also Quick Detach, without tools. So I have that on that BRNO #1. I also have that on a pre-64 Winchester Model 70 in 30-06. And on a little CZ Scout in .22 LR.

Both these rifles were made in 1955 (BRNO #1 and Win Model 70) - same year that I was - from my Dad, that was a time when scopes were notorious for failing or fogging up - at least that was their reputation in rural Sask. - so was seen to be a lot of value in a way to quickly revert to use the iron sights when out hunting - hence the various hinge over, or "see-through" mounts of that era. Like many others, my Dad used iron sights to hunt, until he was into his 50's, and could no longer see the barrel rear sight - so at that point, got a scope installed to his elderly rifle and had to learn to use it.
 
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Your rifle has 16 mm grooves. Very easy to find mounts, though they aren't necessarily cheap. PM me if you want a set for the price of postage. Can't recall, but you might have to file/grind out a recoil lug on one of them. Five minute job.
 

I took the mag from my CZ and held it with my thumb. It flawlessly cycled 5 rds, which means I have to make a magwell for this....So here goes! Luckily, the ejector is steel and part of the receiver which makes it easier to fab. Current CZ's have it as part of the magwell, and from plastic.
The mag release knob is also a tad longer than factory, but should make it easier to activate! The spring can probably come from a pen without any issues. Going to be 3d printed prototype this weekend if all goes well.



I have rings en route from a generous CGN member so I can attach a scope. I will ignore iron sights for now and focus on carving the stock. I also fashioned a trigger guard tonight that I had leftover from a scrapped Cooey
 
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The Brno model 3s Stecher is actually the rarest model 3. I have a regular model 3 like yours and it's a tack driver.

You can get biathlon style stocks from Klinsky.
 
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Those #3's look great. I'll have to look into what a double trigger is actually for sometime soon. Does the first one act as a safety lever since the pull weight is feather lite on the main trigger?


Carved the stock in 20 minutes - reminds me of the days I used to build guitars! Felt nice to pull the drawknife out of storage.
I might move the Schnabel closer to the end, it looks a lil' chunky in the photo now that I've stepped back. I will probably add an adjustable LOP on this with some stainless steel rod, not sure if I want to also do it on the cheek or not. Main priority was to make sure the mag still sat very flush to the stock. Debating buying 10rd mags or not, I have a lead on 2 steel ones for 100$ shipped. Still hemming and hawing if I'm selling off my CZ and making this my main target/precision rifle.


My buddy printed the magwell out today. Looks pretty good! I appreciate the source on Wolverine (is it always called a magazine housing? I've only ever heard to it as a magwell) but they want 18$ in shipping. If this printed one doesn't work (it should, I can do another at 100% infill if the dimensions are right and theres little stress on it) I will have to go there. analemma also mailed me the 16mm rings today!
 
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Jahnj0584 said:
Those #3's look great. I'll have to look into what a double trigger is actually for sometime soon. Does the first one act as a safety lever since the pull weight is feather lite on the main trigger?
...
Click to expand...

I have a Schultz and Larson Model 61 single shot .22 - a "free rifle" - a 15 pound behemoth that was used about early 1960's at Olympic and World's level "free rifle" small bore events. It has the two triggers. What they do - front one is the "set" trigger - is actually curved backwards - is meant to be pressed with fore finger, away from the shooter. You hear a "click" - nothing else happens. But rear trigger becomes very light pull when "set" - like a few ounces light - have had the thing fire many times on sandbags at range when I did not even realize my trigger finger was actually on there - how some really good shooters want it to be. There are adjustment screws - between the triggers - going up - they set the weight of pull and length of pull for the main trigger, once it is set. That rear trigger stem is also adjustable on the trigger mechanism - to establish a length-of-pull from the pistol grip to the trigger shoe. As you might have guessed, the double "set trigger" is not likely an addition on to the original single trigger - is an entire different mechanism within the rifle. Many will swear "at" it - apparently really high end shooters will swear "by" it.

I also have some German sporter rifles from 1920's (?) - one might be pre-WWI - I think their trigger arrangement is backwards to that - pull the rear trigger and get a "click" - then reach forward with finger to trip the now "very light" front trigger. Or just pull the front trigger as a "normal" trigger. I do not shoot them very much - I might not be perfectly correct on how they work. When dismantled, there is a much different sear release assembly, under the receiver, that works with the set trigger units on the trigger guard.
 
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That Stecher homage is very well done, though the barrel looks a little lite in diameter? Great American walnut stock, very very nice!
About the double set triggers on the Stecher #3s they are a very complicated set-up, I was lucky to get a NOS trigger set and trigger guard from "Deny" in California before he passed away.he worked for BRNO/CZ when he was young then immigrated to the U.S. and worked for Boeing as an engineer. When BRNO was ripping down there warehouse and old tooling plant, he a friend bought it lock stock and barrel, he saved sum of the BRNO rim fire bolt series stock duplication, and a warehouse with crates of parts ranging far back as the 1920's. When he went back every year he would ship a few crates home with him, and did not ever know what he would find in NOS parts till he got back and started emptying them! I came to become friends with Deny over the years buying parts, but then he sorta new what I was looking for before I even new! He sent me the Stecher trigger and guard then phoned me and said a package was on the way, I hadn't even sent him any $$$ ,but that's the kind of guy he was. Anyway the story he told me was Anschutz was going to file a infringement on there patent and this killed this trigger package?
As to not a lot of #3's here in Canada, this is not true my friend brought in these in the range of 500-1000 units, here in the middle of know where Canada. Maybe just not many in your neck of the woods.
Love this thread, BRNO rules :)
 
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