my reloading bench is an old workbench that runs along the wall of my basement. problem is the top is particule board and starting to come aprt where the press is, and should be replaced with something stronger. is plywood strong enough to take the forces exerted by the press? also it should alsso be repainted, as it is dark green now, and hard to see small items in the low light. should i just paint it white, or would it be worth it to get some scrap linoleum or counter top and use that?
rebuilding my loading bench
- Thread starter kevin.303
- Start date
FWIW.. My 2 cents...
Stainless steel is nice...
Linoleum/Counter top would be good too.. but just a solid colour...
White gets too dirty too quick
Plywood should be fine but I am using solid wood on my urathaned about 6 coats..
Stainless steel is nice...
Linoleum/Counter top would be good too.. but just a solid colour...
White gets too dirty too quick
Plywood should be fine but I am using solid wood on my urathaned about 6 coats..
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I used 3/4" plywood for the top of my bench, but you should have a good framework under it, and use lots of screws. I inletted and bolted a piece of steel cutting edge to the front of my bench top, and welded the bolts in place to hold the press. Because the casting of the press is not perfect, I used a piece of 1/4" plywood as a gasket between the two steel surfaces. The disadvantage of my system is that the round heads of the carriage bolts can be a nuisance, but the steel plate comes in handy.
A durable surface like steel, linoleum, etc is great. You don't get oils etc embedded into the surface that way.
If you want to just go quick and simple, pull off the particle board and replace it with 3/4 ply good on one side, sand and urethane several coats.
If you want to just go quick and simple, pull off the particle board and replace it with 3/4 ply good on one side, sand and urethane several coats.
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
I had a very nice laminated countertop in my ex-darkroom (recycled into a reloading den).
I bought a 24"X10"X3/16" steel plate in a metal scrap yard and had them put a 90 deg. bend at 1 1/2" from the long side. Then I drilled 1/16" pilot holes corresponding to all my presses and accessories setups in it and had bolts welded on the underside.
Before welding, I had pre-drilled all the bolts' locations with a 1/16" centering hole, clamped the plate to the countertop in its final position and drilled through with a 1/16" drill bit. I then used a 1/2" Forstner dowel hole drill to form the recesses for the boltheads.
After that, the plate was drilled for the bolt holes and drilled and countersunk for 1 1/2" wood screws at 4" intervals on three edges and four horizontal locating screwholes on the front edge.
Once the boltheads were tacked in place, I clamped and screwed the plate to the countertop by first drilling on the front edge and screwing the four locating screws then going all around and pre-drilling the screw holes. I put a drop of white glue in each hole so the contact with the particle wood inside stays tight.
This gives a very ridgid mounting point for the presses and I experience absolutely zero deflexion while resizing. And mounting/dismounting a setup is a breeze!
Cost: about $5.00 for the plate and $7.00 for the bending (minimum charge).
Tackwelding with a MIG was done by a friend, which gave me the occasion to bolt my presses in place to ensure the bolts didn't shift position ever so slightly...
PP.
I bought a 24"X10"X3/16" steel plate in a metal scrap yard and had them put a 90 deg. bend at 1 1/2" from the long side. Then I drilled 1/16" pilot holes corresponding to all my presses and accessories setups in it and had bolts welded on the underside.
Before welding, I had pre-drilled all the bolts' locations with a 1/16" centering hole, clamped the plate to the countertop in its final position and drilled through with a 1/16" drill bit. I then used a 1/2" Forstner dowel hole drill to form the recesses for the boltheads.
After that, the plate was drilled for the bolt holes and drilled and countersunk for 1 1/2" wood screws at 4" intervals on three edges and four horizontal locating screwholes on the front edge.
Once the boltheads were tacked in place, I clamped and screwed the plate to the countertop by first drilling on the front edge and screwing the four locating screws then going all around and pre-drilling the screw holes. I put a drop of white glue in each hole so the contact with the particle wood inside stays tight.
This gives a very ridgid mounting point for the presses and I experience absolutely zero deflexion while resizing. And mounting/dismounting a setup is a breeze!
Cost: about $5.00 for the plate and $7.00 for the bending (minimum charge).
Tackwelding with a MIG was done by a friend, which gave me the occasion to bolt my presses in place to ensure the bolts didn't shift position ever so slightly...
PP.
Last edited:
257Roberts
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Peterborough ON
I took a 3/4 steel plate about 10" x 10" , rounded the front edge and have a number of holes drilled and taped for mounting various presses and a vise. The plate is bolted to the my bench structure from underneath.
I am never in that much of a rush and it only takes a minute to change tools.
I am never in that much of a rush and it only takes a minute to change tools.
Bench
I work in a confined space so mine is constructed of 2x4 supports and a 3/4 inch MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard ) top, with 2x4's running around the perimiter (bottom side) to absorb the force of any objects bolted to the surface. It was a bit pricey compared to plywood but tough as nails. The entire bench is hinged and folds down against the wall when I am not using it.
I work in a confined space so mine is constructed of 2x4 supports and a 3/4 inch MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard ) top, with 2x4's running around the perimiter (bottom side) to absorb the force of any objects bolted to the surface. It was a bit pricey compared to plywood but tough as nails. The entire bench is hinged and folds down against the wall when I am not using it.
I have one of those big oak office desks, with the drawer in the middle. Press is bolted on the right side powder measure on the left. I work in the middle.
Cost $25 but had to take the legs off to get it upstairs into my sons room after he moved out. My daughters room was taken over by my grandaughter .DAN>>>
Cost $25 but had to take the legs off to get it upstairs into my sons room after he moved out.
My daughters room was taken over by my grandaughter .DAN>>> 
