Rebuilt 1911-functioning problems

ShooterMcGavin

ShooterMcGavin

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Hello,
I have jsut reparkerized and rebuilt one of my 1911's. I get it all back together alright and it dry fires jsut on the frame and when i put the slide and rest of the pistol back on it stays cocked adn will not fire.

I was thinking that this may be a sear and disconnector problem and replaced them wiht new wilson combat parts and it still happened. I have an adjustable trigger on this gun and adjusted it to both ends of the spectrum with the same result, Gun wont fire.

SO now I have a GI trigger on the way to replace that. I ahve also replaced the main spring, (the funny one wiht the 3 prongs)

Does anyone have any idea what may be wrong? It is a good park job and the gun looks sweet but right now i cant ever take it out.

regards,
gavin
 
Could be the disconnector or the grove on the slide that works the disconnector has a build up preventing full engagement of it, could be a lot of things. To narrow it down, assemble the frame without the grip safety. (including the thumb safety) Put the slide on and try again.

This way you can watch the trigger move back, engage the disconnector, the disconnector engage the sear and the sear move forward to release the hammer.

More importantly, you can see which part does not do what it's supposed to.

Of course, if the hammer falls normally this way, the grip safety may be the problem, not loving up above the trigger bow.
 
Not to rain on your parade.

If you do not have a clear understanding of the workings of the pistol, you might well create an unsafe gun.

Taking/sending the pistol to a competent pistolsmith might be your best course of action.

IMHO....Dropping the hammer on the frame without the slide in place is not good for the pistol.

Cheers.
 
I have a good understanding of how the pistol works,
I have built and trouble shooted several 1911's
I jsut came here for advise and suggestions,
I would not shoot a gun that i thought "unsafe" which is why this has been in pieces for so long

I am not an expert, and neither are alot of pistol/gun smiths in canada.

thanks for the help, i will do as advised and reassemble with out teh safetys

regards
gavin
 
All of the parts that went back in are the ones that came out of it, except the sear and disconnector which as i stated i replaced, so droppped in. I have also replaced the main spring so it was "dropped in as well"

i have not gotten into "fitting" the parts yet
 
If it works without the slide, and then not when the slide is installed, it really sounds as if the disconnector/slide relationship is the problem. Reassembling w/o the grip safety as recommended above should let you observe the trigger/disconnector/sear function.
 
[SIZE=-2]
If the disconnector is too long, and can't move far enough upward into the
slot, it can't make connection between trigger and sear. The hammer will ####, but the gun won't fire. This is where many people get into trouble with the disconnect. They figure out why the hammer won't fall, and shorten the top of the disconnect, only to discover that the hammer follows the slide...or in some cases, the gun goes into full-auto mode.

Warning: The top of the disconnector should never be filed or stoned. If it doesn't move into firing position, the half-moon slot should be made deeper. There is a scraper available from Brownells that is designed specifically for this purpose.

In case anyone gets the idea that they'd like to play with the disconnector length in order to purposely cause the pistol to fire in the full-auto mode...
be warned...The gun can fire out of battery, and do serious damage to the slide, frame, magazine, your hand, your eyes...or all of the above. It's also illegal. Purposely modifying any firearm with the intent of creating a machinegun can land you in deep trouble [/SIZE]
 
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