Recommendation for a 1911 holster that will not wear the finish off.
- Thread starter SKS-Stu
- Start date
Nope.
No holster will prevent wear if you plan on using that pistol for competition use. That's the nature of the beast.
I bought a couple DAA suede lined holsters but I'm told, once you get dust etc blown up into the suede, it'll act like sandpaper and show more wear faster than plain kydex. Doh!
I bought a couple DAA suede lined holsters but I'm told, once you get dust etc blown up into the suede, it'll act like sandpaper and show more wear faster than plain kydex. Doh!
mebiuspower
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Morontario
Just man up.
IDPA uses practical gear, I use and like Hogue holsters, well priced with a quick natural draw.
Any minimal rub marks simply wipe off easily, hogue makes a good holster. tried the blackhawks and didn’t like the safety mechanism, too slow a draw, more natural with hogue.
Any minimal rub marks simply wipe off easily, hogue makes a good holster. tried the blackhawks and didn’t like the safety mechanism, too slow a draw, more natural with hogue.
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Worry more about having to buy another gun so soon because you plain wore out your last one! Competition guns are tools, they wear out and it's best not to get to sentimental about them. I worry more about the guy on the range with the shiny new gun I don't know.....
Either Kydex plastic or leather is fine. The trick is to keep the holsters clean inside and out.
For plastic a cloth and soapy water followed by a rinse will aid in keeping the insides clean. If you can't reach the nooks and crannies use an old retired toothbrush.
For leather don't use water of course. But get a brass bristle brush and keep it for ONLY cleaning the leather holsters. What you're going to do is lightly but firmly brush the inside of the holster to dislodge and sweep away any dust and grit that is in the nap of the leather fibers. To do this you will raise the fibers and give the surface of the split side of the leather a fuzzy look. But don't get carried away with the pressure or you'll do damage to the leather. If the holster is two layers so you have smooth outer hide both inside and out then go extra easy on the pressure since you won't be able to raise the fuzzies like with the split side. But you still want the pressure you get from the brass vs the light action of a tooth brush or nylon brush.
In the end though you won't totally eliminate holster marks on the gun. You'll simply reduce how much you get. But run the gun in matches for long enough and eventually the edges will wear. But I've yet to see that reduce the value by much, if any.
For plastic a cloth and soapy water followed by a rinse will aid in keeping the insides clean. If you can't reach the nooks and crannies use an old retired toothbrush.
For leather don't use water of course. But get a brass bristle brush and keep it for ONLY cleaning the leather holsters. What you're going to do is lightly but firmly brush the inside of the holster to dislodge and sweep away any dust and grit that is in the nap of the leather fibers. To do this you will raise the fibers and give the surface of the split side of the leather a fuzzy look. But don't get carried away with the pressure or you'll do damage to the leather. If the holster is two layers so you have smooth outer hide both inside and out then go extra easy on the pressure since you won't be able to raise the fuzzies like with the split side. But you still want the pressure you get from the brass vs the light action of a tooth brush or nylon brush.
In the end though you won't totally eliminate holster marks on the gun. You'll simply reduce how much you get. But run the gun in matches for long enough and eventually the edges will wear. But I've yet to see that reduce the value by much, if any.
