I'm considering buying new wood and reparkerizing my M1. I have only two concerns. First given that my M1 is in non usgi miss matched wood, and a mixture of parts (some in the white), will this hurt the value. Second if I go throuigh with this, where do I get an M1 reparkerized?
Refinishing an Garand
- Thread starter lorne19
- Start date
.30/06 FTW
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario
If it's already a parts gun it shouldn't have any effect on the value.
Im in the same process, Arma-coat will be doing the parkerizing for $150 plus tax and shipping IIRC. Right now Im finishing fitting a Boyds walnut stock, then it will be finished with tung oil. Mine is a parts bin with Winchester, Springfield and Breda parts and the mismatched usgi wood was VERY rough. Should be pretty nice when done.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If the rifle is a collection of parts, how well does it shoot? There is no point putting an expensive finish on mismatching parts that aren't well fitted and don't shoot well. If you can, do the next guy a favour and source more BMB, BMR, PB, SA or WRA parts to match the reciever.
FWIW:
Sounds like an honest rebuild with a cool pedigreed . The odds are high that at least some of the parts have already been reparked , some maybe repeatedly. I would repark it and never look back . Already did it a couple times and will do it again. The old USGI shop manuals have directions for using bake-on stove paint ( flat black ) for the stainless steel gas system parts. There were and are fancier ways to refinish the stainless , but stove paint is just as historically legit as the other methods.
ETA:
I dunno about the Canadian market , but reparking the gun would make zero difference in shooter grade gun price down here. Personally , I would check the gun for any rare and original finish collector restoration parts , replace them , and then just get the gun refinished.
Sounds like an honest rebuild with a cool pedigreed . The odds are high that at least some of the parts have already been reparked , some maybe repeatedly. I would repark it and never look back . Already did it a couple times and will do it again. The old USGI shop manuals have directions for using bake-on stove paint ( flat black ) for the stainless steel gas system parts. There were and are fancier ways to refinish the stainless , but stove paint is just as historically legit as the other methods.
ETA:
I dunno about the Canadian market , but reparking the gun would make zero difference in shooter grade gun price down here. Personally , I would check the gun for any rare and original finish collector restoration parts , replace them , and then just get the gun refinished.
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If it's already a "bitster" re-parking will not diminish the value/collectability of the piece. It's been my experience that most Canadian Garand affictionados tend to be shooters rather than collectors (and a lot of them are mezmerized by the history of the rifle and the "music of the ping"
), so a nicer appearance would appeal to them.
The majority of these rifles were re-parked/re-barreled/re-stocked with various parts being swapped at least once during the military overhaul process. If one has an original receiver/barrel combination this is a good basis for a restoration using original manufacturer's parts(Springfield,WRA,HRA,IHC,Breda or Beretta). A lot of these are marked with the manufacturer's code. Others can be identified by variations in their dimensions or appearance. These can be found by shopping around. From a collectability aspect it would be wiser to retain the original finish on an original receiver/barrel combination.
Re-parkerizing will yield either a grey or black finish depending on the use of zinc(grey)or manganese(black) in the park solution. The finish on all parts will not be of uniform color due to variations in the types of steel used for various parts. This was the case on new rifles as well. As indicated, the stainless steel gas cylinder, lock, and screw cannot be parkerized. These can be re-done by using a black spray-on coating (flat black automotive cylinder head paint works well) or by using a stainless steel coloring agent.
), so a nicer appearance would appeal to them.The majority of these rifles were re-parked/re-barreled/re-stocked with various parts being swapped at least once during the military overhaul process. If one has an original receiver/barrel combination this is a good basis for a restoration using original manufacturer's parts(Springfield,WRA,HRA,IHC,Breda or Beretta). A lot of these are marked with the manufacturer's code. Others can be identified by variations in their dimensions or appearance. These can be found by shopping around. From a collectability aspect it would be wiser to retain the original finish on an original receiver/barrel combination.
Re-parkerizing will yield either a grey or black finish depending on the use of zinc(grey)or manganese(black) in the park solution. The finish on all parts will not be of uniform color due to variations in the types of steel used for various parts. This was the case on new rifles as well. As indicated, the stainless steel gas cylinder, lock, and screw cannot be parkerized. These can be re-done by using a black spray-on coating (flat black automotive cylinder head paint works well) or by using a stainless steel coloring agent.
If you provide the following info I or others should be able to tell you this:
1. What is the maufacturer's name and the s/n on the receiver behind the rear sight?
2. What are the markings which are visible on the side of the barrel when you retract the operating rod?
1. What is the maufacturer's name and the s/n on the receiver behind the rear sight?
2. What are the markings which are visible on the side of the barrel when you retract the operating rod?
One way to do it:
Post some pic's and someone may be able to tell you. 3 photo's should enough to get started:
- Markings on the reciever heel behind the rear sight.
- Markings on the right front side of the reciever , below the wood , on or near the front leg. ( just to be sure ) .
- Barrel markings on the right side of the barrel , behind the operating rod.
I don't know enough about IHC's to be a useful source concerning barrel and reciever matches.
Purple beat me to it.
Post some pic's and someone may be able to tell you. 3 photo's should enough to get started:
- Markings on the reciever heel behind the rear sight.
- Markings on the right front side of the reciever , below the wood , on or near the front leg. ( just to be sure ) .
- Barrel markings on the right side of the barrel , behind the operating rod.
I don't know enough about IHC's to be a useful source concerning barrel and reciever matches.
Purple beat me to it.
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Lorne, fitting the boyds stock has been pretty easy actually. American Walnut is tough wood to sand but if you take your time, it will come out looking nice. Most of the work is done for you by Boyds, so its just cleaning up certain areas and making it look nice. BTW guys, My M1 is built on a Winchester reciever S/N 1297231. Barrel is marked SA 3 44 so March 1944 I take it? Shes almost ready for Tung and re-parkerizing! Should be able to finish the hunting season with her.
Receiver behind sights-International Harvester 5193797
Right side of receiver-D6528291-N
Barrel-LMR D6535448 12 54 A38
Trigger ass-6528290 IHC
Bolt-6528287 SA A14
Op rod-D35382 SA
Gas cylinder plug-NHC
Sight knobs-Both marked IHC
None of the other parts are marked, but is there any way of identifying them?
Right side of receiver-D6528291-N
Barrel-LMR D6535448 12 54 A38
Trigger ass-6528290 IHC
Bolt-6528287 SA A14
Op rod-D35382 SA
Gas cylinder plug-NHC
Sight knobs-Both marked IHC
None of the other parts are marked, but is there any way of identifying them?
Your rifle was made by International Harvester(IHC) in the latter part of 1955(Oct/Nov most likely). Parts marked IHC in the drawing number are original to the rifle. The LMR barrel is also original to the rifle. IHC did not make their own barrels and used LMR barrels exclusively.
Parts showing "SA" were made by Springfield Armory and are replacements. The gas cyl screw marked "NHC" was made by New Haven Clock on contract. IHC used gas cyl screws marked "NHC IHC" as original parts.
An original IHC stock will show a 4 digit number (Julian date) in the barrel channel. One would need to examine the other parts to determine the manufacturer. Some IHC parts, incl the op rod catch, follower, clip latch, and rear sight base will/may show a single letter.
Parts showing "SA" were made by Springfield Armory and are replacements. The gas cyl screw marked "NHC" was made by New Haven Clock on contract. IHC used gas cyl screws marked "NHC IHC" as original parts.
An original IHC stock will show a 4 digit number (Julian date) in the barrel channel. One would need to examine the other parts to determine the manufacturer. Some IHC parts, incl the op rod catch, follower, clip latch, and rear sight base will/may show a single letter.
I spent most of today researching IHC garands on the computer today, and best i can figure most everything on the rifle is IHC or unmarked post war except the op rod and bolt. Also my but plate seems to be like new and doesn't match the rest of the rifle. This leads me to think that it is not correct. I'm also unsure about my gas cylinder, a IHC is post to have a wide base cylinder. How do I tell if mine is right? also can anyone tell me if my barrel dose match my receiver?
The wide base sight pedestal is significantly wider that the front sight . The older narrow bases were only made by Winchester and Springfield during part of WW2 -- and never by IHC or HRA. The older pedestals are roughly the same width as the sight.
I need to eat some crow for breakfast . I'm not at all sure that I would re-park that rifle if it were mine . It is starting to sound too close to original.
I need to eat some crow for breakfast . I'm not at all sure that I would re-park that rifle if it were mine . It is starting to sound too close to original.
