Refinishing anodized parts ???

caporal

caporal

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Hi everyone

The question is simple : Is it possible to "add" black anodizing on a part that is already anodized but have a worn finish or scratches???

I do have a aluminum framed P38 & a pump shotgun that finish is dull a some places I will be glad to make them look better!

NO I don't ask yet a professional anodizing company to do so, I don't see myself call them & ask "hey can you refinish my guns?" Since I living in Quebec I'm pretty sure it will end the gestapo knocking on my door... oops I mean SQ knocking on my door,

Any help?

Thanks

Larry"Corporal"Marcotte
 
No. You cannot anodize for scratches, you can only do the whole gun or whatever particular part. Now there are certainly products that can cover the scratches, but not anodizing.
 
This issue often came up with paintball guns when I did that sport. Yes aluminium CAN be reanodized. But the second time around it will be a little more dull unless you do the job in two parts. Chemically remove the existing anodizing first. Then repolish or otherwise treat the parts as you want. And then finally anodize the parts.

Keep in mind that NO steel can be in the parts during the anodizing process. It spoils the bath and eats the parts away. So if there are inserts of any sort they will need to be removed.

The parts will come back with internal holes and overall sizes slightly opened up or reduced on external sizes due to the removal of the anodizing. Screws will fit a teeny bit more sloppy. This is separate from any size changes due to polishing. So any precision fits will be just a pinch more loose. This isn't important for anything other than high precision fits. The difference to your slide should not make a difference since we're only talking about .0005 to .001 removal of metal from the anodizing process.

While it is stripped is a perfect time to look at cleaning up nicks and scratches on the external appearance only areas where removing 5 or 10 thou of metal is not a big deal. And remember that anodizing is only a coloring process. If you want it shiney it needs to be shiney in the raw state. If you want it brushed then be sure the sanding marks are flowing the way you want to see them flow. Anodizing hides nothing at all.

If you're handy with metal working you may want to get the parts de-anodized first and then do the polishing or other repairs yourself and then take them back for anodizing. This physical grunt work is where the real cost is so if you can do that part yourself you'll save some good bucks for more ammo... :D
 
BCRider said:
This issue often came up with paintball guns when I did that sport. Yes aluminium CAN be reanodized. But the second time around it will be a little more dull unless you do the job in two parts. Chemically remove the existing anodizing first. Then repolish or otherwise treat the parts as you want. And then finally anodize the parts.

Keep in mind that NO steel can be in the parts during the anodizing process. It spoils the bath and eats the parts away. So if there are inserts of any sort they will need to be removed.

The parts will come back with internal holes and overall sizes slightly opened up or reduced on external sizes due to the removal of the anodizing. Screws will fit a teeny bit more sloppy. This is separate from any size changes due to polishing. So any precision fits will be just a pinch more loose. This isn't important for anything other than high precision fits. The difference to your slide should not make a difference since we're only talking about .0005 to .001 removal of metal from the anodizing process.

While it is stripped is a perfect time to look at cleaning up nicks and scratches on the external appearance only areas where removing 5 or 10 thou of metal is not a big deal. And remember that anodizing is only a coloring process. If you want it shiney it needs to be shiney in the raw state. If you want it brushed then be sure the sanding marks are flowing the way you want to see them flow. Anodizing hides nothing at all.

If you're handy with metal working you may want to get the parts de-anodized first and then do the polishing or other repairs yourself and then take them back for anodizing. This physical grunt work is where the real cost is so if you can do that part yourself you'll save some good bucks for more ammo... :D
Click to expand...
Most or us hear( gun owners) do not want the cheap polished look of anodizing aka type II.
We are looking for milspec Type III hard coat. so the matt finishing from the strip and re finish is not really a bad thing.
I will say one thing, its allmost imposable to get a perfect finish when you strip and refinish.
We had 3k of stuff that had to be refinish, as the shop did a bad job on the finish, it did not come out as well as we has hoped.
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Thanks

Thanks for the infos

BCRider said:
Chemically remove the existing anodizing first.
Click to expand...

What kind of stuff will remove anodizing?


BCRider said:
Keep in mind that NO steel can be in the parts during the anodizing process. It spoils the bath and eats the parts away. So if there are inserts of any sort they will need to be removed.
Click to expand...

Damn there is a large hexagonal steel insert in my P38 frame:mad:

Anyway it seem to be a hard & costly job for a cheap gun!

Perhaps it exist an alternative finish that can be done over anodizing??

Or even better is there any stuff that can be use to do touch up only where needed Like cold blue on steel?

Thanks

Larry"Corporal"Marcotte
 
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