Refinishing stock what glue or filler takes stain

[manitou210]

Have some small cracks near heal running 1.5 to 2.5" want to mix a filler or glue that will take stain with sandings of stock and use some walnut stain
manitou

 

[Countryboyz]

I use a good quality white glue, mixed with wood sandings as a filler. Mix until a thick paste & then apply. Being it is the same as the parent material it should stain very close in colour. I also use a syringe to inject the glue deep into the crack, try to achieve full penetration, clamp & wipe off excess glue with a damp rag. This has always worked for me, however I usually don't use dark stains.

 

[BCRider]

I've yet to see a glue and sawdust filler that consistently takes a finish like the wood around it. At least not on the first try. The trick is to use the same sort of wood and do testing to find the mixture that is easy to blend. It'll never match. But if you get it right it'll look like part of the wood.

 

[ronnie01]

No glue will take a stain.You can only try and disguise the job.
Lots of info here everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=275

There are many statements from Noremph who is a wood expert. He does go into detail on how you can accomplish what you want.
I hope this helps your stock finishing en devour.

R

 

[icedog]

I've used fine sawdust mixed with a clear two part expoxy. The quick set stuff works well, both as a glue and a filler, and the color does not change a whole lot when hardens, It sands nicely, and will take a finish like tung oil, or a "wipe-on" poly. I usually pry the cracks open a bit using pointed toothpicks so that I get plenty of epoxy into the crack. Once the toothpicks are removed and the piece is wrapped with surgical tubing, or strips of old inner tube, the crack will close up nicely. When the epoxy has hardened, and is worked level with the wood, the repair can be nearly invisible, especially if you made a reasonable color match with the glue/sawdust mix in the first place.

I usually remove the old finish chemically, but always save the sawdust from any sanding, just in case I find cracks or other small voids that may need filling.

... not a pro, but it works for me

 

[BigUn]

In all of my years as a carpenter, I have heard of the glue and sawdust trick being used mostly by old timers passing on this ancient tip for a wood filler and just snicker. It will not take a stain well or at all and looks like crap. For very fine surface hairline cracks, a little crazy glue followed by a quick sanding with 200 to 600 grit sandpaper while glue is still tacky will blend in well with the grain. There are also lacquer based wood fillers which harden quickly that will match most wood types and different colors can be mixed together for an even closer or exact match. When the filler dries it forms a very strong bond with the wood. For deeper cracks wood glue(no sawdust) or the same filler can be thinned down with lacquer thinner to flow better into the crevice and then topped off when dry with more filler.

If you feel a little artsy after it is dry and sanded, a few strokes of imitation wood grain can also be added with a hobby brush, toothpick or Q tip before the final finish is applied for a nice blend.

 

[Spiker1]

Use automotive body filler, acts like glue, sand off and takes stain np.

 

[BigUn]

This picture was taken today of a grip which had severe drying cracks. I made the repair about 6 years ago using filler and crazy glue as described in my previous post then finished with tung oil. Not perfect but acceptable and still holding up well.

 

[Ol' Flinter]

I have never found the sawdust + wood glue to work satisfactorily. I stain the wood in the crack to closely match the surroundings then mix epoxy like Accraglas and add color to closely match or be slightly darker than the surrounding wood. Warm the wood before applying the epoxy so it flows deep into the crack and leave a bit extra. Once set up you can sand it to the wood surface and apply whatever finish matches the original surface.

Well done BigUn!

 

[BigUn]

Thanks Ol' Flinter. You are correct regarding warming the wood or a warm work area for better penetration. Epoxies do a really fine job of checking the cracks. I have used Envirotex Lite with excellent results on the job for larger scale areas such as bar tops and higher end board meeting tables. It can also have color added much like the Accraglas. I find the Envirotex very clear and durable and have used it as a top coat as well. It will not get milky water stains like lacquer or some urethanes.

 

[Why not?]

I have used Acraglass, not the gel, to repair a number of stocks over the years. Unstained, it blends in near perfectly to repair tight cracks. More open cracks can be done quite well using floc, and dyeing the resin to match the wood as closely as possible.

Very fine job on that grip, BigUn. Doesn't get done much better than that.
Ted

 

[SkytopBrewster]

I just use clear 5 min epoxy then finish as you normally would.