Refinishing stocks

[j_06]

I've used minwax antique oil in a few with good success and it's fairly easy to work with. Here's my latest project a cooey 84. 5 coats rubbed in, then waxed.

 

[Dean2]

Duplicate

 

[Dean2]

NL Honter said
Thank you, Kurgan. I could have filled grain or applied another ten coats with steel-wooling in between, but this is a hunter not a show piece.

I suggest you try Scotch Brite pads in 800-1000 grit rather than steel wool. I was a big steel wool user but most now comes from China nad it is crap, plus the Scotch Brites do the job even better than wool ever did.

Also. even though it isn't a show piece, the grain should be filled. I woul let what is on there dry a couple of weeks and put a few more coats on.

 

[Mike Webb]

There are a ton of different methods to refinish gun stocks, as you are finding out. I have done a couple Remington stocks with the tougher finish(I think they called it RKW). You will find the worst part is stripping that finish. Let the stripper do the work, avoid scrapping or removing the finish with anything hard. I find Truoil works well and is user friendly. The more coats(thin)you apply the higher the gloss as the grain becomes filled. I don't apply it or tung oil with my hands, I get an old nylon stocking and put three or four cotton balls inside it/dip it in the finish and wipe on with the grain. Leaves no finger or brush marks. After eight or ten coats(make sure it is dry before reapplying) I use 600 grit wet or dry paper dipped in water to remove any high spots in the finish. You can leave it as a satin finish or buff it with Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner for a high gloss finish. If a high gloss finish is desired be aware that ANY imperfection will be obvious though. The most important thing is don't be in a hurry.
My 2 cents.

 

[NL-Hunter]

I may try a few more coats with scotchbrite pads as suggested.

I will definitely have to let it dry a couple of weeks as the more coats you apply, the longer it takes to cure.