Rejoining a sxs
- Thread starter brybenn
- Start date
Traditional method is to replace the hinge pin, this applies mostly to sidelocks. On boxlocks and others where the hinge pin is not replaceable the permanent and proper fix for many years was to cut a dovetail into the face of the hook, press fit a piece into this dovetail and file it in to fit the hinge pin. In recent years TIG welding and more recently spray welding has become more common for this, both of these methods are capable of an invisible repair however there is a risk that overheating will loosen the lump where it is attached to the barrel so it's not a job for a casual welder. The downside is that these methods are more expensive than the previous dovetail method. For your purpose try to find a gunsmith who will do it the old fashioned way, it does a fine job.
As mentioned before, the hook is pierced across by filing a dovetail slot into the face, a carefully fitted piece is pressed into the slot and then filed in to a perfect fit to the hinge pin. That tightens the action and draws the barrel rear faces back into a perfect fit against the breech face. The other methods, TIG build up and filing in and spray weld build up and filing in work the same way but are built up by a skilled welder rather that mechanically. All of these methods are unseen when the gun is together, the two welding methods can also be unseen when the gun is taken down. Replacing the hinge pin requires that the new pin not only be fitted to the barrel hook but also contoured and finished to match the sides of the action. Then in most cases the new pin will need the end(s) engraved to match the original which involves another skilled craftsman, more time and more expense. Worth it to many when on a valuable or rare gun ( not necessarily the same thing).
- Location
- campbell river bc
Many years ago I tightened up a loose side by side by soldering a piece of brass shim stock on to the hook. A bit of file work for fitting and it lasted for years for the limited amount of shooting that it received after the repair. Not a permanent fix but will get you by in a pinch.
Be careful when trying to solder the hook. It is frequently soldered in to the barrels and if you get enough heat for a good solder joint and it spreads to this area and loosens the hook from the barrels you are in a world of trouble.
By rotating the hinge pin 180 deg, if the end of the hinge pin is contoured to match the shape of the action side it will stick out and look like bubba drove a bolt in. Some bubbas have also been known to squeeze the action in a vise or pound on various parts with a hammer and punch to try to tighten a gun. A temporary fix for a limited number of shots is a well greased shim, usually brass but I have seen steel, molded to the rear face of the hinge pin or the front face of the hook. If too tight and the action is forced closed this can spring the action and care must be taken to keep it clear of the forend iron but if done carefully it will take out the looseness for awhile without doing any damage. Do you want to fix it or ruin it?
Just to update i took the gun to a buddy and he did a low heat mig build up on the hook and i filed it until it fit. The barrels sit even and flush with no side to side wiggle. I guess i did a decent job filing because you cant tell its been altered
It still has a very slight up and down play but i have to hold the barrels at the muzzle and the wrist to feel it. Its nice to have the distinctive sxs closing sound now when i close the action
It still has a very slight up and down play but i have to hold the barrels at the muzzle and the wrist to feel it. Its nice to have the distinctive sxs closing sound now when i close the action
Ah yes, the centre punch solution, usually applied in several places hoping that one will be the magic one. At best it gives a very temporary fix and looks like $hit. When applied on a decent gun it drastically reduces the value from that point on. Bubba lives!!
It took all of 2 seconds for him to weld it. He made a few small practice welds on a scrap metal adjusting the heat. And asked about the size of bead needed. 2 quick zips and he handed me some files and i slowly worked it down
Whats the easiest way to tighten the bite? Ive seen jack rowe do it with a hammer. The lever is still slightly left of center
