Reload Procedure?????

lemon hart

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Just wondering what the correct procedure for reloading rifle ammo is? I am talking about tumbling first, or depriming first, or resize and deprime, trimming, or what other order you have>

Would like to know the best order to follow in preping the case for doing the final load?
 
A lot of guys tumble before decapping & resizing so as not to run crap up into the die. I never tumble brass, I clean it in an ultrasonic washer with hot water and brass cleaner after decapping - this give the cleaner a chance to make those primer pockets nice and shiny again.

Generally, if I have to chamfer or trim (only every few loadings), I do it before washing the brass, so that the shavings will get washed out.
 
I always follow these steps and never have had an issue with reloading my rifle brass:
1. Tumble/clean brass
2. Deprime brass & size brass
3. check case length
4. chamfer neck
5. prime brass
6. load brass with appropriate powder
7. press in your bullets and check seat depth
8. go to the range and test em out

Ryan
 
I always clean/tumble mine after I decap/resize. I want to get all the case lube off. I could just wipe them off, but I get too lazy when I am doing 1500 at a time.
Pain in the ass to get the media out of the primer pocket, but that too only takes a second.
 
prosper said:
I never tumble brass, I clean it in an ultrasonic washer with hot water and brass cleaner after decapping - this give the cleaner a chance to make those primer pockets nice and shiny again.

Prosper, where did you pickup your ultra sonic cleaner? I am getting interested in one. I see it is the way to go.


Calvin
 
ebay, baby. It's the source :)

They're not cheap, but DAMN, do they ever work. Leave a painted metal object in too long, and it'll strip the paint right off
 
Thanks guys. I have tried all or most of the ways and was wondering if maybe there is a system that is faster. I too like to tumble my brass a bit after sizing, trimming and chamferring etc. It gives the reloads a better than new appearance.
 
  1. Tumble
  2. Resize/Deprime
  3. Trim
  4. Tumble again
  5. Clean primer pockets with Dremel tool and nylon brush
  6. Prime
  7. Powder
  8. Seat Bullet
  9. Tumble one more time
 
Slavex said:
  1. Tumble
  2. Resize/Deprime
  3. Trim
  4. Tumble again
  5. Clean primer pockets with Dremel tool and nylon brush
  6. Prime
  7. Powder
  8. Seat Bullet
  9. Tumble one more time

Tumble loaded rounds:eek:
Not that they will go off in the tumbler, but I would be afraid of the powder breaking down and changing the burn rate. May not be an issue, but I sure wouldn't want 46 grains of Varget to become the burning rate of 46 grains of Bullseye:eek: :eek: :eek:
Have you tested velocities of loaded tumbled rounds agianst those you don't tumble? Just curious?
 
I always follow these steps and never have had an issue with reloading my rifle brass:
1. Tumble/clean brass
2. Deprime brass & size brass
3. check case length
4. chamfer neck
5. prime brass
6. load brass with appropriate powder
7. press in your bullets and check seat depth
8. go to the range and test em out

Ryan
X2 works great
Frank
 
If you want shiny bullets, you can get nickel plated brass, or simply use latex gloves for handling brass & bullets after the second tumbling. I would encourage you to stop tumbling loaded ammo. Even if it's not unsafe, I suspect that it will adversely affect the consistency, lot to lot, of your ammo.
 
Tumble/Not to tumble loaded rounds?
I do so, but at my own risk. I suppose they don't shake that much during transport when compared to a case clearner, but how bad is a few hrs in the cleaner? Some suggest that the vibration could abrate the coating on the powder grains, changing the powder's burn rate. Other say BS to that. The debate is endless....
 
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OneBarfly said:
Tumble/Not to tumble loaded rounds?
I do so, but at my own risk. I suppose they don't shake that much during transport when compared to a case clearner, but how bad is a few hrs in the cleaner? Some suggest that the vibration could abrate the coating on the powder grains, changing the powder's burn rate. Other say BS to that. The debate is endless....

Just curious if you guys have ever check your veloicties from tumbled and non tumbled loaded rounds? Are you talking about 5 minutes in the tumbler or an hour? What about 2-3 hours or overnight if you forgot about it running in the garage? Are the still safe?
I am not trying to be a #### about it, but I sure would like to know if I ever have to shoot beside you:p
 
I've left .308 rounds in for two days by accident before (went on trip forgot to turn off tumbler). no problems. same with pistol bullets.
I read an article in the last couple of years about this and the writer said he tested all sorts of ammo, factory and reloads, all different powders etc etc. and had no problems, and no increase in pressures or velocities. I know that the last time I mentioned this someone posted a quote from some other, older test that did show an increase when stuff was left in for a long time. One of the caveats that the newer article mentioned was that he was using new, modern powder which is much more durable. It was also mentioned that he thought, but couldn't prove, that stick powders might eventually break down and cause some problems. but again he couldn't get it to happen.
however I usually only leave my rifle stuff in the final tumble for maybe 15-20 minutes. Pistol usually 1/2 an hour or so, though an hour isn't uncommon.
if you think about the amount of vibration that happens with finished rounds, before they are ever fired you'll see that leaving them in a tumbler isn't a big deal. everything from bouncing around in a car trunk to the vibrations from being in a magazine during firing, all of these things don't affect the rounds, and neither will time in a tumbler to clean off the last bit of goop from loading.
although I guess it's slightly possible that someone could use a powder the guy I read didn't use and they could have a problem. if you don't feel safe doing it, don't. I do so I do.
 
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