Reloading, am I doing it right?

B

Blinkmaster

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Good morning fellow gunnutz,

I’m new to reloading, literally reloaded my first batch 4 days ago. Caught COVID and had to stay isolated in my basement, so what else a guy gonna do… :)

I read a lot on this forum, watched a lot videos, spent about $2K on equipment (bought about two months ago) and I took a crack at it, also recorded myself, so if I screwup is all on camera :)

https://youtu.be/sSGon3iv1UM

I’d really like some feedback of what I’m doing is right or if I should be doing something else. There is nothing like good old advice from someone that knows what they’re doing and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As far as I can tell as you can see at the end of the video did some nice groups.

I will be reloading 30-06 and 6.5 Creedmoor. Got some beautiful x1 fired brass from members of this forum. Thank you!!

For my first try I did the 30-06. Once I get used to it and know what I’m doing, I’ll be looking at the 6.5

Equipment:

Case cleaning: Wet Rotary Tumbler - Frankford Arsenal (very good results)
(Tested the RCBS ultrasonic but it was not that good)
Press: Forster CoAx
Dies:
- Lee - Universal decapping die
- Case sizing and seating dies from Hornady
Scale: RCBS Chargemaster Supreme
Case trimmer: RCBS
Priming tool: RCBS
Deburring /chamfering tool: Lyman

Any feedback, greatly appreciated.

Thank you 🙏
 
So you need a chrono, no idea about your steps, since you didn’t film the resizing part, try anneal your brass, learn about neck tension, shoulder bump, and how to measure with ogive instead of overall length.
 
As above - learn to make a couple hundred that go "bang" - do not want to get caught up, just yet, on "bench rest" or "precision" loading techniques - stay with basics and make several hundred that work. You do not mention the rifle that you will use - or what has or has not been done with that? Or your own shooting experience? All work together. If you are not really experienced shooter, many loading techniques are waste of your time. Same if you are using an off-the-shelf store bought rifle with no tuning done - unless you got very lucky with the one that you bought. A good rule of thumb is your group size on target. If you try something and your group size does not decrease, then was not worth it for you and your gear - although it might be very worth while, for another shooter, with another rifle.

If you are an inexperienced shooter with poor form, or using a rifle with "issues", then not going to offset that with "better" loads. Is a saying that holes on target do not lie - use that as your guideline about your progress.

Is examples of errors in published reloading information - reloading manuals - so try to reference more than one source of information. Learn what is "working up" a load for your rifle. What I use successfully in my rifles, means about nothing for your stuff - "generally" and "on average" - you will have to work up for your own outfit to find it's "best" loading. Is no "Easy Button" - after 500 rounds sent down range, you should be a better shot, than when you started. Then, will be better again after next 500 rounds. If you do not shoot, not likely to improve.

After that first 1,000 rounds, you will have used up your first case of primers. At, say, 50 grains powder per load, you will have used 50,000 grains of powder - that is a bit over 7 pounds of it. Depending how many cartridge cases that you started with - say 100 cases - at 1,000 rounds fired, most will be likely be ready to replace. And, of course, you used 1,000 bullets. These days, that is not inconsequential money, especially if you used the same components all the way through. Changing out any components - different brand primers, bullets, cases or powder - normally requires that you prudently "back off" and "work back up", with your gear.
 
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Kezh1729 said:
So you need a chrono, no idea about your steps, since you didn’t film the resizing part, try anneal your brass, learn about neck tension, shoulder bump, and how to measure with ogive instead of overall length.
Click to expand...

OP - you are on the right track with the quality of tools being used. As already outlined above, consistency in the process, end-to-end (that is mostly individual dependent), will generally display results on paper. Obviously, determining appropriate powder, seating depth etc are some of the initial validation steps.

Few additional tools such as the Hornady OAL gauge, set of Hornady comparators plus micrometer seating dies (Forster or Redding) will enhance effective control over that E2E process.

You may also need a bullet puller at some point down the road. :) I recommend the RCBS puller with collets or similar product from Forster.
 
What potashminer said. You don't need to obsess with annealing, bullet pull, shoulder bump, etc, at this stage. Learn to make rounds that feed easily, are safe to shoot (ie don't start at the max load!!), and are as accurate as you are, and your rifle. Refinements come later.
There is no big mystery to reloading, other than what some people like to put into it. And a beginner doesn't need to have everything that some one doing it for years has; it is a hobby that lends itself to accumulating 'stuff', some useful, some not.
 
"No big mystery" - well, in my experience there is one - "read the damn book!!!" If you are new to the game, do not fool yourself that you are "expert" with reloading, because you watched a U-tube video. I still do not know entire story - in 1970's, my neighbour and I each bought the basic Lee Loader kit - mine was for 308 Win and his was for 22-250. Uses a "scoop" to measure out powder - has a chart showing which powders, with what weight bullets, for that scoop. I suspect, but do not know for sure, that the neighbour's buddy told him of a "better" powder, or perhaps bullet weight, to be using - is what he got, I think - not what the chart said. His very first shot froze his bolt shut - like an over-pressure loading - then he hit the bolt handle with a 2x4 to open it - the bolt handle on his Remington 788 rifle broke off and bolt was still closed. I think it cost him about as much to get that rifle fixed, as it had cost him to buy it in the first place. Maybe still, but for years he made no secret that hand-loads were "dangerous" and should not be used.
 
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Reloading your own ammunition can be as safe or as dangerous as you make it.

"Read the book" great advice!! Do not jump at heavier loads - approach slowly
and cautiously from below. At first, do not obsess about minutiae. Build some
loads that you can try safely, and refine as you gain experience.

It is a great hobby, and comes with much satisfaction and some frustration, lol.
Regards, Dave.
 
Blinkmaster said:
Good morning fellow gunnutz,

I’m new to reloading, literally reloaded my first batch 4 days ago. Caught COVID and had to stay isolated in my basement, so what else a guy gonna do… :)

I read a lot on this forum, watched a lot videos, spent about $2K on equipment (bought about two months ago) and I took a crack at it, also recorded myself, so if I screwup is all on camera :)

https://youtu.be/sSGon3iv1UM

I’d really like some feedback of what I’m doing is right or if I should be doing something else. There is nothing like good old advice from someone that knows what they’re doing and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As far as I can tell as you can see at the end of the video did some nice groups.

I will be reloading 30-06 and 6.5 Creedmoor. Got some beautiful x1 fired brass from members of this forum. Thank you!!

For my first try I did the 30-06. Once I get used to it and know what I’m doing, I’ll be looking at the 6.5

Equipment:

Case cleaning: Wet Rotary Tumbler - Frankford Arsenal (very good results)
(Tested the RCBS ultrasonic but it was not that good)
Press: Forster CoAx
Dies:
- Lee - Universal decapping die
- Case sizing and seating dies from Hornady
Scale: RCBS Chargemaster Supreme
Case trimmer: RCBS
Priming tool: RCBS
Deburring /chamfering tool: Lyman

Any feedback, greatly appreciated.

Thank you ��
Click to expand...

Get a reloading manual..Lyman..RCBS..or online manual. Stay with published load..forget the internet receipt.
 
Janeau said:
He need nothing of this to make good ammo..nothing.
Click to expand...

I would agree - those steps might make difference between 5 shot 1" groups and 5 shot 1/2" groups - but also make the difference from 4" groups to 3 1/2" groups. But bedding, scope mounts, some shooting coaching will take you from 4" to 2" groups with about "normal" quality factory ammo. As mentioned - there is no Easy Button - is the loading, the rifle (including the mounts and scope) and the shooter. It takes all three, to be shooting in the "two's" or less ...

And, despite what you might read on Internet, my Dad, and I had taken many deer, elk, etc. with rifles that would struggle to do 3" from sandbags at 100 yards. Of course, none were taken at 600 yards. I doubt either of us ever fired at an unwounded animal beyond 300 yards, and, by far, most were taken under 200 yards.

Part of your challenge is about what is "good enough" for your purposes. You learn a lot more from misses, rather than from hits, if you are honest with self. It appears that many today are about target games - but some old dudes, like me, are still about making that single, cold bore shot.
 
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I would measure your cases and shoulder bump some to still feed reliably in your action. With the semi auto, you may need to make it larger of a bump than you would with a bolt action. You have the measuring tool on the bench in the video, if you are not already. Also get the bullet comparator set, and measure from the bullet ogive case length, which is more accurate than overall length.
The rest, by your video looks okay, of what little is shown.
Check out some or Eric Cortina videos on chasing the lands.

My first batch I did a ladder test out at 200 yrds to narrow a powder charge window. Then confirmed charge weight with a few 3 shot groups of the better charge weight, staying below max. Then played with seating depth with the best charge weight determined in the 3 shot groupings. Down to .156" groups now.

No you do not need to shoot 1000 rounds before you start to get a little more detailed with your reloading. The more detailed you get, the more accurate your results, if your equipment and you are capable. Only you can determine that one.
 
Potashminer said:
As above - learn to make a couple hundred that go "bang" - do not want to get caught up, just yet, on "bench rest" or "precision" loading techniques - stay with basics and make several hundred that work. You do not mention the rifle that you will use - or what has or has not been done with that? Or your own shooting experience? All work together. If you are not really experienced shooter, many loading techniques are waste of your time. Same if you are using an off-the-shelf store bought rifle with no tuning done - unless you got very lucky with the one that you bought. A good rule of thumb is your group size on target. If you try something and your group size does not decrease, then was not worth it for you and your gear - although it might be very worth while, for another shooter, with another rifle.

If you are an inexperienced shooter with poor form, or using a rifle with "issues", then not going to offset that with "better" loads. Is a saying that holes on target do not lie - use that as your guideline about your progress.

Is examples of errors in published reloading information - reloading manuals - so try to reference more than one source of information. Learn what is "working up" a load for your rifle. What I use successfully in my rifles, means about nothing for your stuff - "generally" and "on average" - you will have to work up for your own outfit to find it's "best" loading. Is no "Easy Button" - after 500 rounds sent down range, you should be a better shot, than when you started. Then, will be better again after next 500 rounds. If you do not shoot, not likely to improve.

After that first 1,000 rounds, you will have used up your first case of primers. At, say, 50 grains powder per load, you will have used 50,000 grains of powder - that is a bit over 7 pounds of it. Depending how many cartridge cases that you started with - say 100 cases - at 1,000 rounds fired, most will be likely be ready to replace. And, of course, you used 1,000 bullets. These days, that is not inconsequential money, especially if you used the same components all the way through. Changing out any components - different brand primers, bullets, cases or powder - normally requires that you prudently "back off" and "work back up", with your gear.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are absolutely correct. That is exactly how I feel, let me master the art of making good/safe ammo and then concentrate on getting smaller groups. The rifle I loaded for a few days ago is a semi-auto, like will be used for moose hunting. I have a Tikka T3x bolt action in 6.5 Creedmor I'd like to really focus on. That will be used likely for target practice (100/200 yards) and some deer hunting. I di have the latest Hornady manual and their app, came free for one year. Really educational. Looking forward to this challenge, so far I really enjoy this hobby, although I gather I picked the wrong time to start reloading with all the shortages around.
 
wallz said:
I would measure your cases and shoulder bump some to still feed reliably in your action. With the semi auto, you may need to make it larger of a bump than you would with a bolt action. You have the measuring tool on the bench in the video, if you are not already. Also get the bullet comparator set, and measure from the bullet ogive case length, which is more accurate than overall length.
The rest, by your video looks okay, of what little is shown.
Check out some or Eric Cortina videos on chasing the lands.

My first batch I did a ladder test out at 200 yrds to narrow a powder charge window. Then confirmed charge weight with a few 3 shot groups of the better charge weight, staying below max. Then played with seating depth with the best charge weight determined in the 3 shot groupings. Down to .156" groups now.
Click to expand...

Good eyes. :) Yes I do have the shoulder bump gauge from Hornady, as well as the bullet comparator set. For my first attempt, I took factory ammo, shot it through my rifle, then measured the shoulder bump, it went up by ten thousands of an inch, then I reduced it with the sizing die by 3 thousands, to ensure it would work in the semi-auto action. For my bolt action I would likely only reduce by two thousands. Haven't played with the ogive yet, but that is next on the list.

I'm always the "safety first" guy, so you can imagine how nervous I was when I did my first bullet seating. You can likely see in the video, I went really slow. LOL
 
Ahsan Ahmed said:
OP - you are on the right track with the quality of tools being used. As already outlined above, consistency in the process, end-to-end (that is mostly individual dependent), will generally display results on paper. Obviously, determining appropriate powder, seating depth etc are some of the initial validation steps.

Few additional tools such as the Hornady OAL gauge, set of Hornady comparators plus micrometer seating dies (Forster or Redding) will enhance effective control over that E2E process.

You may also need a bullet puller at some point down the road. :) I recommend the RCBS puller with collets or similar product from Forster.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into a puller, that is one thing I do not have.
 
You can reload for about $400 bucks. You don't need all the fancy gismo's that most are trying to sell you.

What you need to get started.
ONE Lee reloading kit comes in a plastic box about 6" x6" x1" in the caliber you want to reload. $60 bucks.
ONE pound of powder: Which ever brand you decide on AFTER buying and reading at least one quality reloading manual preferably two (this is a must ) $60 bucks
ONE sleeve of 100 primers, beg borrow from a friend or buy a full sleeve of whichever primer the reloading manuals suggests $100 bucks.
ONE chamfering and deburring tool $13 Bucks
ONE hammer $10 bucks
ONE decent set of calipers $65 bucks
0000 steel wool to polish brass if you feel you must $2.00
100 projectiles of which ever weight/style your heart and the reloading manual suggest $50 bucks.
Two reloading manuals $ 100 bucks or so. (Notice a theme with the reloading manuals)
Brass I am assuming is once fired from your rifle? If not add $100 bucks

So $400 - $500 bucks will get you set up and you can take your rifle out and make some noise and harvest several animals.
After you have decided that reloading is the thing you want to do? Then feel free to buy all the gismo's your hear desires but be for warned you will spend much, much more then the original $400 bucks.
 
Kezh1729 said:
So you need a chrono, no idea about your steps, since you didn’t film the resizing part, try anneal your brass, learn about neck tension, shoulder bump, and how to measure with ogive instead of overall length.
Click to expand...

A chrono of some sort is a very nice tool but it isn' absolutely necessary if your pennies are tight.

You should be able to extrapolate your velocities by measuring bullet drop at known distances, usually in 100 yard increments.
 
6.5 shooter said:
You can reload for about $400 bucks. You don't need all the fancy gismo's that most are trying to sell you.

What you need to get started.
ONE Lee reloading kit comes in a plastic box about 6" x6" x1" in the caliber you want to reload. $60 bucks.
ONE pound of powder: Which ever brand you decide on AFTER buying and reading at least one quality reloading manual preferably two (this is a must ) $60 bucks
ONE sleeve of 100 primers, beg borrow from a friend or buy a full sleeve of whichever primer the reloading manuals suggests $100 bucks.
ONE chamfering and deburring tool $13 Bucks
ONE hammer $10 bucks
ONE decent set of calipers $65 bucks
0000 steel wool to polish brass if you feel you must $2.00
100 projectiles of which ever weight/style your heart and the reloading manual suggest $50 bucks.
Two reloading manuals $ 100 bucks or so. (Notice a theme with the reloading manuals)
Brass I am assuming is once fired from your rifle? If not add $100 bucks

So $400 - $500 bucks will get you set up and you can take your rifle out and make some noise and harvest several animals.
After you have decided that reloading is the thing you want to do? Then feel free to buy all the gismo's your hear desires but be for warned you will spend much, much more then the original $400 bucks.
Click to expand...

You can also look at the Lee Hand Press non bench mounted

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You can get a set of decent Lee Dies, which most commercial loaders use, for $50 or less, used in almost any cartridge you want to load for.

Component prices are no longer predicable.
 
OK, read the Book, study the Book People say but ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
If you know a experienced Reloader, see if he is willing to show you how its done to produce a decent Cartridge. The basics I am talking about, nothing Fancy Annealing, trimming Casings and such come later. much later.
Reloading is actually quite safe if done correctly but if you purchase that 1/2lbs open Can of Powder of 4350 from Mike in Canmore (or anybody except your Mother), you on your own, if you know what I mean.

Be safe - Cheers
 
If the cartridge chambers and it goes bang when you pull the trigger, and no parts fell off you or the gun and you still have all your fingers and eyeballs, then yes - you did it right.
 
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