Reloading bench surface

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45ACPKING

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I've finally gotten around to fabricating a reloading bench and am getting near the end and am contemplating what to dress the surface with.
It is constructed with a welded frame of 3/16 x 1 1/2" steel bed frame angle with 2 sheets of screwed and glued 3/4 MDF for the top. I could epoxy paint it or something but I have a crop section of 3/16 stainless steel that would fit it just nicely. It will also have a spot for a barrel vice to bolt on and it why i went so heavy duty.
Any downside to using stainless as the working surface on a reloading bench? Would be impervious to any solvents or oils and easy to clean up so to me it's an attractive option over some kind of out of a can coating

thoughts?
 
I was offered a piece of granite from a kitchen remodel. I would be happy with a stone surface supported with 3/4” plywood

I currently have a small piece that my scale sits on and like the smooth surface
 
73582 said:
If you like the metal top idea and you know a sheet metal guy with a brake, have a galvanized top bent up. Magnetic is nice
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all my shop benches are topped with galvanized sheet with a 90 rolled edge. I do have some galvanized here but it's thinner and would have to go shopping. So far other than cutting/grinding disks and welding wire , all the materials have come from my "save for future projects" pile LOL
I guess my wondering stems from reading about static electricity and other things to avoid around the loading bench so wondered if topping it with a potential conductor was a bad idea or not.
 
My first reloading bench had a stainless steel top sheet, but it was 1/8 inch.

At first, it seemed fantastic, but later, because the bench was also being used for other things, it managed to accumulate dents and even a few sharp-edged scratches.

At the time, I was restricted to how much space I could alot to reloading/DIY projects/etc. So one 6'x4' bench had to be a "do it all" surface, which included a vice.

If you're only going to use the bench for reloading, stainless will be just fine.

My present bench is covered in Arborite, over 1.5" press board, for rigidity/strength. Cheap, nothing sticks or clings to its surface, so easy to brush off and clean.

It's been in place for almost 20 years and still looks new. The presses are still rigidly held in place, since they were bolted to it.
 
45ACPKING said:
all my shop benches are topped with galvanized sheet with a 90 rolled edge. I do have some galvanized here but it's thinner and would have to go shopping. So far other than cutting/grinding disks and welding wire , all the materials have come from my "save for future projects" pile LOL
I guess my wondering stems from reading about static electricity and other things to avoid around the loading bench so wondered if topping it with a potential conductor was a bad idea or not.
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I get it, try to use what you have. I had one of my shop 7ft benches that had a 3/8' SS crop on 1/2 the bench and some 1/4" white acrylic on the other half. Used my second layer of plywood to match the heights. the others were were galvanized bent up by the local heating shop, put a 1/4" plate under my vise so it wouldnt crush the sheet metal.
 
Will throw my “barely started reloading” method I am using. I bought one of the thicker black rubbery matts that typically go under or in front of a BBQ. Really like the slight grip it offers as well as being fully water proof and easy enough to wipe down.

Actual table top is 2x12” planks planed and level. I have recessed screw inserts that I use to mount my press etc. works good so far
 

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When I bought my property I found a 3' x 6' sheet of 3/4" HDPE plastic. I figured what the heck, and made it the top on my reloading/workbench. It's actually amazing, impact resistant, cut resistant, spill resistant. I'm not sure where it was purchased from, but I did a google search and you can get similarly sized sheets for a couple hundred bucks.
 
Stainless top is awesome. If you concerned at all about it being too hard for something you are working on then just grab a few mats to do your work on. Id go stainless any time. Cool project 45ACPKING!!
 
Mine has a solid finger joint top that’s like 3 3/4 thick. It’s got a few dents over the years, last summer I sanded it down and revarnished it. Got close to 20 years so far.
 

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right on, thanx for the feedback gents.
When i get it finished and moved into the house I'll take some pics.
It's actually more or less designed as an addition to my exisiting desk where i project and tie flies n stuff.
I'm only reloading for 3 calibers so a large space isn't required. I'm done buying hunting ammo though and rolling my own only from now on.
 
My fold away bench(free black and decker workmate) for my press is made out of 2x10’s with cross grain 2x4’s. Still trying to figure out how to make up some sort of quick detach system to switch between my presses.

Only thing I have for a surface so far is the 2x10’s a lot of reloaders I know have used MDF and such with some 2x reinforcement under it without issue for years.
 
45ACPKING said:
I've finally gotten around to fabricating a reloading bench and am getting near the end and am contemplating what to dress the surface with.
It is constructed with a welded frame of 3/16 x 1 1/2" steel bed frame angle with 2 sheets of screwed and glued 3/4 MDF for the top. I could epoxy paint it or something but I have a crop section of 3/16 stainless steel that would fit it just nicely. It will also have a spot for a barrel vice to bolt on and it why i went so heavy duty.
Any downside to using stainless as the working surface on a reloading bench? Would be impervious to any solvents or oils and easy to clean up so to me it's an attractive option over some kind of out of a can coating

thoughts?
Click to expand...
I epoxy painted mine GREY . I don’t like a metal top for a reload bench . JMO
 
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