Reloading Finn's

daka

daka

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Fort McMurray, AB
I own 300 WSM Sako,Tikka .223 and .243...
I reload a lot and with all of the above named have troubles closing the action,some of the reloads especially for .243 Tikka cant even close the action,bolt just wouldn't go down not even using the force.
OAL was checked on almost each shell when resizing the brass and when seating the bullet as well.Really cant figure out what is the problem,even tried to save the brass fired from my gun but still the same thing.
My friends savage had the same problem so really thinking that i am doing something wrong or tolerances on these guns are so low.
Before was loading for CZ .308 and never had problems,Browning,H&R,REM's etc eats eveything up as well...
anybody had similar problems?
i would appreciate any clues that might help...
 
I have had some similar problems on my Tikka s/s .270wsm even with once fired brass. It doesn't appear to be an issue with OAL as mine are well within my OAL ranges (that is I built dummy rounds for the min length and the max that would fit in my rifle). Now that I am reading about someone else, I wonder if the problem is with the resizing of the case on the lower portion...I have noticed a very slight tapering towards to the bullet end of the case after resizing...never really thought much of it but I wonder if that is the part that is making the bolt hard to close? I really don't have any answers, just glad to hear someone else has the same problem and maybe now we could put our heads together and figure out what the issue is..For what it's worth I am using Remington brass, but I suspect it's more to do with the chamber tolerances/resizing then it is with the brass and OAL.
 
  1. Raise ram wiht shellholder in place
  2. Screw reszing die into press, until it contacts shellholder
  3. Back die out 1/2 turn, lock in place
  4. Lube a single piece of brass that is not anywhere close to being longer than maximum case lenght
  5. insert case and guide into the die
  6. Remove case, try to chmaber in your rifle. If it chambers, great- you are done.
  7. If it doesnt' chamber, screw the die down a litl more, try again
  8. Keep trying until it chambers with little or no resistance

Keep in mind the WSM cases sometimes need "more than full" resizing- You might have to screw the die down further than the shellholder at the highest point, so it "cams over"

When seating the bullets, you can try a similar system, but be sure you aren't jamming the bullet into the lands and shooting the cartridge without knowing about it/knowing how to deal with seating depth/"kissing" the lands.
 
You may very well have hit the nail on the head with the more then full resizing idea. The rest any hand loader should be aware of but in all honesty never though to go more then full
 
Thanks a lot guys...
Great tips 'gatehouse',only problem i got is that i reload at friends place.Next time when on my way to range i'll bring guns and stop by at his place and do as you said so.

Next problem i got is that i wasnt very successfull in reloading 9mm L.and .40 S&W.
Someone is telling me that when seating bullets shell holder and the die have to "touch".
I tried doing so and crushed few cases.Also when expanding how to set the expander die?
When resizing do i need to go all the way down so Shell H. and the die touch or no?
 
I have seen quite a few times Tikka smaller bores (especially .270) having problems chambering factory ammos (most of the time, they were nickel cases i.e. Fail Safe). After a lot of brainstorming, I've measured case headspace and compared it with cases that freely chambers, and found they were in the upper limits (without being off). That means those Tikkas (including my current T3 Varmint 6.5X55) have close to minimum headspace. Now, if you try to load such a large headspaced case in a small headspace chamber, that's what happens (a stiff "chambering"). Sometimes, it happens with my older brass, especially with hot loads, when you only neck-size, it then does not chamber "freely" after a certain amount of reloads. After measuring the case headspace, I found they were then on the 'hgigh" side. At this time, you have to bring them to "Minimum case headspace". After that, you're good to go for a few times again.

A case headspace gauge is the tool you need, RCBS makes good stuff, but you can make your way with an Hornady "Head'N'Shoulder' kit (wich uses ayour standard caliper).
 
Re: pistol
Carbide sizing dies are adjusted to not quite touch the shellholder(carbide is hard and brittle and can crack). Adjust expander to open case mouth(flare from .003 to .006"), so lead bullets will not be shaved while seating. Seating die can simultaneously crimp, if required, and is about a 5 step process, RCBS has best instructions.
 
Thanks again guys
I reloaded .40 without a problem last time but with 9mm i still having crushed case occasionally.
For Tikka and Sako you were right,i also haven't quite paid attention to that so that might be a problem.
 
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