reloading for 223

marlin1895gs

marlin1895gs

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ok, im getting my hornady lnl ap in a couple days, (i hope) and im going to be reloading 223 with it for my AR, using the full length sizer etc... do you guys have any tips as for lube etc. lubing for me has been kinda ####ty, i hate sittin there, rollin them on the pad, or spraying them, and most importantly wiping them off after, do you guys have a special die where you don't need lube? or, a lube that dries and you can forget about it? or am i stuck dealing with the extra steps?
 
Get some Lee Lube and a large Ziploc Freezer bag.

Put 200 cases in the Ziploc and run about an inch long strip of lube on the inside of the bag. Zip the bag up and Shake. Rattle and Roll until all the cases have been coated then size away.

To clean, run in a tumbler of Walnut media for 15mins - 1/2hr or so.
 
ok, so in a 5 station press, you lube and decap, then full length size, the powder charge, then seat, and then crimp?

does your tumbler media get kinda ####ty after awhile doing that? i've never tried,

oh, and do you trim your .223 brass when precision isn't of much of an importance? or rather i should ask, at what length do you trim it back?

thanks a bunch, im going to order one of them forsure!




just seen your post cyanide: i'll give that a shot for my regular brass i guess. not a bad idea!
 
marlin1895gs said:
just seen your post cyanide: i'll give that a shot for my regular brass i guess. not a bad idea!
Click to expand...

Personally, I prefer the RCBS Lube pad but you stated you didn't like having to roll a few at a time. I used that method before I got my lube pad and it worked pretty well. It will take a few times for you figure out the right amount of lube in the bag.

Yes, trimming is important other than for accuracy reasons. If the brass grows too long it may not chamber properly.
 
well seating and crimping is done in the same die..you just leave the last station position empty. but if you get a spare die you can crimp separately in the last stage. that's how i do my 40 s&w/ 10mm's.
 
If you use any lube, you need to get rid of it before firing. That means alot of wiping.

Or, you can size you brass, clean them, then load them into the progressive for the final steps.

Personally, for 223, I find using a single stage press and a powder measure just as quick and I can tailor all the steps.

Jerry
 
im going to be reloading some for a bolt gun, and i'll be doing those all single stage/chargemaster, but im getting a progressive for .45 anyway, so i think i'm going to try and see if i can't get into a decent rhythm or order of operations for my AR ammo. i thought about lubing and sizing and then tumble, without tumbling ahead of time.. but that screws with a progressive setup anyway and woulnd't be much of an advantage in a single stage setup especially sizing with possible junk buildup in the case, and then you run the increased risk of media in the flash hole.. hm i guess i'll just have to see what works best and go from there. hard to find a listing on any website for that lube die.. anybody have any suggestions as where to find one? thanks for all the help guys
 
Case preparation for consistant loads ehen using a progressive press.

Lee lube, can be used wet or dry. Wipes off with a damp cloth.
Use the Ziplock bag method to lube.
Use a pipe cleaner dipped in lee lube to lube the inside of the necks - it does make a difference.



Resize and decap in a single stage press.
Wipe off lube with a damp cloth.
Trime and champher case mouth.
Clean in case cleaner.
Make sure you confirm each primer hole is clear of cleaner.

Now your Rifle cases are ready for progressive press.
The first die in the press is not the resize die but the powder die.
and you would have powder, bullet seater, crimp die in that order in the press. With cast bullets I sometimes use a neck expander die (lyman 310 with a bushing to fit the press) rather than champher the neck. Lee sells these dies as well.
 
I would be careful with some homemade recipe and getting it inside the case which might mess with the primer and/or powder. Not sure if this is founded or not but just a thought?

I am not going to use my LNL AP for a rifle unless I get an AR or other semi auto.
 
i've used nothing but HORNADY ONE-SHOT for lube for years- it evaporates , leaving no residue on the case- never had a problem- however, it is HARD TO COME BY- almost everybody and his dog has the rcbs
 
You say you'll be loading for a bolt action. If that's the case, then forget the advice about getting Dillon carbide dies. Dillons rifle dies are very nice and I loved mine. However, they are small base dies meant for semi-s and lever guns. They will over work your brass and your potential accuracy will be reduced to a degree.

However, there is no reason to avoid using the progressive.

I used dillon's pump spray lube, and if used right, you need very little. You will inevitably over lube at first. One spray over a cookie sheet is all you will need, but you do need to allow it to dry. (5-10 minutes)

After sizing, you should toss the cases back into the tumbler with fresh untreated corn cob media for 30 minutes to remove the lube.

There is always the fear of getting a piece of media in the flash hole, but one way to eliminate that is to set up a universal depriming die in station one when you load.
 
"...applies only to straight-walled cases..." Not any more. Dillon makes carbide .223 dies. Horrendously expensive. $133.95US for a 3 die set. Lubing is still required though.
Using the RCBS pad works well. Lube on pad, spread with a digit and roll the cases gently back and forth once. Wipe the lube off with a solvent dampened cloth while watching TV.
 
Redding imperial sizing die wax $5.99 @ WSS. Looks like a little can of lip balm. A little goes a looooong way. No where near as messy as that lee goop, and those gimmick lube pads.
 
Another trick for cleaning is to run them in hot water to get the lube off,spread on newspaper to dry,then tumble again when dry.Keeps the lube out of the media.Lube will shorten the media life.

You must check that each case is empty of media,because the media will bridge and stick; and that the flash hole is clear.Means more handling,but isn't that why we do it?
 
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