Reloading for small pistol - 9mm

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Blinkmaster

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Hello fellow CGNers,

I just received my new CZ Shadow 2 and looking to load some 9mm ammo for it. I've reloaded rifle loads before (30-06 & 6.5 Creedmor).

Wondering if 9mm ammo is much different. Any tips/advice you may have?

Purchased a Hornady die set from AlSimmons in Hamilton ON, came with 3 dies, instead of the usual two for rifle loads. Need to figure out what the extra "expander" die is for. Also read somewhere about crimping. Is it a requirement?

Looks like I still have a lot to learn. :) Also no one seems to have any small pistol primers, if you know anyone, I'd like to buy some.

Thank you for your advice on this one.
 
The expander die is for belling the cases.. ( opens the mouth up so the bullet can seat more easily.
Adjust in small increments).
OAL is not always what the book says it is.
Remove your barrel and do a plunk test., by dropping a loaded round in the chamber.
It should drop in and back out freely,
Once you get that sorted out , then you set your die up to add a slight crimp.
The instructions that came with your dies explains how to do that.

Primers are scarce right now, Small rifle primers will work if that’s all you can find.
Check TNA ,they may have some SPP
 
Size, decap and prime case, expand case mouth to fit bullet (no trumpets), charge with powder, seat bullet to the determined OAL (not the one provided in manuals or data) and crimp to .377-.379 at the case mouth.

Personal note: I own several CZ's and generally they'll need a shorter(ish) OAL e.g. My CZ Shadow requires an OAL of 1.09 with a 147gr CamPro bullet but I can load to nearly max OAL with a S&W M&P or older Glock. Every barrel/bullet combo is different so to keep it simple I load all my ammo to the sortest chamber in my collection, which is currently 1.08 with a 147gr CamPro. Change the bullet, redetermine the OAL. Change the barrel, redetermine the OAL. In some cases even the magazine can limit OAL when loading long.

How to determine you're OAL: from hXXps://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.msg189131#msg189131 :

There are several ways to do this, but here's my method.... Fit a new Jacketed or Plated bullet into a firedcase. (No powder; fired primer.) If you try 2 or 3 bullet/case combinations you'll end up with 1 or 2 where the bullet is a snug "push fit". Fit the bullet inside the case, but leave the OAL out at an exaggerated length; any OAL longer than what you need. Working with your barrel REMOVED from the gun, slide this "test cartridge" into the chamber. At some point it will stop going into the chamber. In other words, whatever the bullet is striking is keeping the test cartridge from going in all the way. At this point, if you continue to push, the bullet will slide back into the case until the mouth of the case comes to rest on the end of the chamber (or "head spaces"). So a) whatever the bullet was striking has pushed the bullet back into the case, and b) the case has fully entered the chamber. Follow?

Finding%252520OAL%2525201.jpg


Finding%252520OAL%2525202.jpg


Now, slowly and carefully withdraw the test cartridge and measure its new length. Do this with other bullets from the same batch and other cases until you start to see the same number again and again. That measurement is your exact chamber length for that bullet in that barrel. For many reasons we need an additional setback distance, so subtract at least 0.015" from that number to obtain your Maximum Usable OAL.

Finding%252520OAL%2525203.jpg


Finding%252520OAL%2525204.jpg


So let's assume your test cartridge keeps giving you a number like 1.177". We subtract our setback and get 1.177" - 0.015" to equal 1.160". You see I've backed off an additional .002" because 1) it's simply easier to read on a caliper, 2) the chances of finding a load for 1.162" is impossible, whereas 1.160 is probably pretty good, and 3) we're talking less than a human hair, so gee whiz give it a break!
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So let's assume your test cartridge keeps giving you a number like 1.177". We subtract our setback and get 1.177" - 0.015" to equal 1.160". You see I've backed off an additional .002" because 1) it's simply easier to read on a caliper, 2) the chances of finding a load for 1.162" is impossible, whereas 1.160 is probably pretty good, and 3) we're talking less than a human hair, so gee whiz give it a break!

Examples of how just changing the bullet requires a new determined OAL:

CZ-OAL.jpg


Determine-OAL.gif


Plunk test:

[youtube]AyS9U90IcUc[/youtube]
 
Last edited:
45C said:
...OAL is not always what the book says it is....
Once you get that sorted out , then you set your die up to add a slight crimp.
...
Click to expand...

I'll add:

1. OAL is rarely what the book says! Simple plunk test will answer that question.

2. Personally, I strongly prefer the Lee Factory Crimp Die as a crimp solution for handgun - It keeps the crimp function separate from the bullet seating function, well worth the investment.
 
You could also use your caliper to measure the OAL of your overlong test cartridge, then gently insert it into the barrel and use the caliper again to measure how far the brass sticks out past the barrel end where it should be flush. Then a wee bit of math gives you a working OAL.

Figuring things out a couple of different ways and coming out at the same answer is a good way of being more certain that answer is right!

Yeah, I know some folk hate math.

Crimping a "NO GO" inert test cartridge an increment longer than the working OAL you've figured is another way of being sure the barrel really doesn't want them any longer.
 
Wow!!! Thank you so much. This is like a goldmine of information. I really appreciate it! Thank you all and thank you 4n2t0, these are very detailed specs. I will copy and add them to my reloading book. Again, THANK YOU! I hope I can return the favor one day!
 
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