Reloading Hirtenberger brass

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Pantallica90

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After shooting a bunch of boxer primed hirtenberger surplus, I tried to reload some only to find the decap pin lodged in the flash hole. Obviously the small decap pin won't stay in the 308 die so I'm wondering what decapping die will get that primer out without problems. As well, should this brass have the flash hole drilled out to the usual size for 308 brass?
 
Just as an FYI anything from them in 7.62 stamped lower then 83 is Berdan primed. I am sure yours is boxer, but the same headstamp with boxer and berdan primers has caught me with my pants down before.
 
I had no problems with an rcbs decapping die and this brass.
If you have a have a smaller pin, great. Stick it into the rod and use a set of pliers to pinch it in place. That should keep it there.
The brass is of low weight, high internal volume but is soft and stretchy.
 
No problems with my Lee dies loading it.
You could get a Lee decapping die, they are not expensive.
Smaller flash holes are supposed to add some accuracy to the cartridge so I leave them as is.
 
I'm guessing that it's an HP83 headstamp.

I have run into this continually, the flash holes are unusually small. I had a spare decapping pin for my Lee Universal Decapping Die so I reduced the pin diameter with the shaft chucked in a drill and then used progressively finer wet 'n dry sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the pin to approx. 0.064"

Now, after decapping the factory brass, I drill the flash hole out using a 5/64" drill bit (0.078") and then de-burr both sides of the flash hole. Now the brass is at "standard" spec for future use.

This is good quality brass with a typical overflow case capacity of ~ 55.5 grains H2O @ 2.005" trim length using a Small Base Die. (56.0gr is considered maximum using a Standard Die)

Ready-to-load cases have a weight range of 157g to 161g for about 95% yield - I reject the remaining 5% outside of this range. I also split the "good brass" into two groups - 157gr-159gr and 159.1gr-161gr

I am currently achieving sub 1/2 MOA groups using the HP83 cases, 150gr Hornady FMJ-BT @ 2.700" COL with light Factory Crimp, CCI200 primers and (undisclosed)gr Accurate 2495BR powder. This load is typically 2,750 fps

Hope this helps...
 
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Lyman makes a flash hole unifyer tool that is sold in a small box with a detachable wooden handle. It also has a sliding collar on the stem to control depth from the case mouth. It was mainly designed to get rid of burrs around the flash hole on the inside of the case and make sure all of the flash holes were the same diameter. This tool was brought out for bench rest shooters who demand absolute consistency from their components.

The tool has a dual diameter tip. The small diameter is used to drill out the flash hole and the large diameter is just for countersinking the edges of the flash hole which supposedly allows for more consistent ignition of the powder column. Whether it really helps or not I don't know.

I chuck up the tool in a battery operated hand drill and clean up the flash holes before decapping. It's quick and easy to do and eliminates the issues the OP has encountered.

I only do this when I'm going to make up a new set of brass. It only has to be done once. I can do a over a hundred cases in an hour.
 
Thanks bearhunter! Very useful info

bearhunter said:
Lyman makes a flash hole unifyer tool that is sold in a small box with a detachable wooden handle. It also has a sliding collar on the stem to control depth from the case mouth. It was mainly designed to get rid of burrs around the flash hole on the inside of the case and make sure all of the flash holes were the same diameter. This tool was brought out for bench rest shooters who demand absolute consistency from their components.

The tool has a dual diameter tip. The small diameter is used to drill out the flash hole and the large diameter is just for countersinking the edges of the flash hole which supposedly allows for more consistent ignition of the powder column. Whether it really helps or not I don't know.

I chuck up the tool in a battery operated hand drill and clean up the flash holes before decapping. It's quick and easy to do and eliminates the issues the OP has encountered.

I only do this when I'm going to make up a new set of brass. It only has to be done once. I can do a over a hundred cases in an hour.
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Much appreciated, Just got a bunch of this ammo and this thread was depressing me,( it started the day after ordered the ammo):roll eyes:. Checked out the Youtube video on this, great southern drawl if you can handle it.
Good luck to you if you can hunt spring bear, I'm out now to check my Winchester 71 loads/sights before I go looking for a really Big bear.:cheers:
 
Problems Re-sizing Hirtenberger Brass with Redding NM Dies

I too am trying to reload Hirtenberger brass, and rather than start a new thread, I thought it would best to restart this one to keep the information consolidated.

I am less concerned about the flash hole size, except to ask whether it is best to leave it small or enlarge it to the standard size for best performance.

My bigger concern is that I have not yet been able to resize it successfully. It has been fired once in a BCL102 (SS Match Barrel), and lightly lubricated and passed through the Redding National Match Full Length Re-sizing die. A doughnut is formed at the neck/shoulder junction (see picture below), and the brass, will not pass either the Whidden Gun Works, nor the Dillon case gauge test, nor will it chamber in the 102. I do not have this problem with Federal Cartridge brass. I am not brand new to reloading, and read and follow all directions that come with the dies.

I really want the Hirtenberger brass to work because the FC brass does not hold onto the primers that well.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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The small flash hole size won' make much difference concerning velocity etc.

I open up the holes to accept the priming decapping pins in my dies because they are larger than the holes.


TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
 
Pax+Caritas said:
I too am trying to reload Hirtenberger brass, and rather than start a new thread, I thought it would best to restart this one to keep the information consolidated.

I am less concerned about the flash hole size, except to ask whether it is best to leave it small or enlarge it to the standard size for best performance.

My bigger concern is that I have not yet been able to resize it successfully. It has been fired once in a BCL102 (SS Match Barrel), and lightly lubricated and passed through the Redding National Match Full Length Re-sizing die. A doughnut is formed at the neck/shoulder junction (see picture below), and the brass, will not pass either the Whidden Gun Works, nor the Dillon case gauge test, nor will it chamber in the 102. I do not have this problem with Federal Cartridge brass. I am not brand new to reloading, and read and follow all directions that come with the dies.

I really want the Hirtenberger brass to work because the FC brass does not hold onto the primers that well.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You are going to have to trim to length, then turn the necks to get rid of the donut/doughnut. They should be ok after that.
 
Pax+Caritas said:
What tool do you recommend for turning necks?
Click to expand...

Hopefully others can chime in. My response is not going to be typical as I go to the US a couple of times a year and stay for a long term so duty is pretty much non-existent. I also bought most of the parts several years ago when the exchange rate was far more favorable. I use a 21st Century Neck turning lathe and I have heads, spindles and expanders for my four major precision target calibers, .223, 6.5CM, .308, and 300WM. I have read good reviews about many other neck turning devices made by various manufactures but I have absolutely no experience with them so I cannot recommend anything in particular.
 
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