reloading manual

mtlbomber

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Hi i just bought a Hornady LNLAP and will start reloading but first i need a reloading manual , is there one that is the hands down winner or are they pretty much all the same.

I also need to get a scale, was thinking of getting an electronic one , any i need to stay away from , which one is the most reliable , any input would be greatly appreciated.:confused:
 
...Check around for a used manual, you're going to end up buying more than one anyway ! Possibly, if buying NEW the best bang for your buck is the LEE manual. Also be aware than some, if not most, Powder Manufacturers, offer FREE loading data, and will mail it to you ! .... David K:)
 
The various manuals present their data in different ways, some for maximum velocity with the corresponding powder charge and others for maximum charge and the corresponding velocity. I think the Lyman is probably the best bang for the buck, but you should get several. I can no longer recommend the Hornady manual as I have found enough mistakes in it that I no longer have confidence in their data for cartridges or loads that I am not familiar with.

It doesn't really matter if you have an electronic scale or a balance beam, although some electronic scales require a warm up cycle where as the balance beam can be put to work as soon as it's set up. You should get a scale weight check set. This way you will have confidence that the scale reading is accurate. Even if the scale is zeroed, there can be an error as weight increases, particularly if you need to weigh charges in excess of 50 grs.
 
I like the Lyman manual too. Like the other guys said, you should have a few different manuals. I personally like the Nosler one as well.
 
more is better

I have 3:
Lee Manual, it's the press and accessories I use, and easy to read
Sierra Rifle/Handgun, they are the bullets I usually buy, and lots of info
Hodgdon Manual and online, as it is my favourite powder for all uses.

The real beauty of 3 or more sources is that if one shows a load different from the others, you can choose to regard it as a mistake, and go with the majority rule.
 
The various manuals present their data in different ways, some for maximum velocity with the corresponding powder charge and others for maximum charge and the corresponding velocity. I think the Lyman is probably the best bang for the buck, but you should get several. I can no longer recommend the Hornady manual as I have found enough mistakes in it that I no longer have confidence in their data for cartridges or loads that I am not familiar with.

It doesn't really matter if you have an electronic scale or a balance beam, although some electronic scales require a warm up cycle where as the balance beam can be put to work as soon as it's set up. You should get a scale weight check set. This way you will have confidence that the scale reading is accurate. Even if the scale is zeroed, there can be an error as weight increases, particularly if you need to weigh charges in excess of 50 grs.
Boomer has pretty well said it all. If I were to pick one manual to start out with it would be Lyman. Over time, the more the better and you can have too few but never too many. In most cases, I taylor my choice of manual use to the manufacturer of the bullet I'm using. In line with that, I find the one I use the most is Sierra. I've had good accuracy results with the bullets they make plus I like their suggested listings for accuracy and hunting loads. A good starting point.
I've just upgraded my scale & powder measure to an RCBS ChargeMaster Combo and I`m really pleased. Starting out though any one of the available balance beam scales would be a good choice for cost, simplicity and ease of use.
 
I guess I am just a naughty boy! Maybe the type you shouldn't even associate with.
In 45 years of reloading I have never owned a genuine reloaders manual!
I started out exclusively with Norma components and their mini book called the Norma Gunbugs Guide. There was sufficient information in it to safely load ammunition with Norma powders.
When I started branching out into different powders, I discovered that Ellwood Epps 1964 catalogue had reloading charts in it, with IMR and Hodgdon powders. That was all I needed. Those old loading charts never specified a charge for different brands of the same weight bullet. For example a 30-06 with 180 grain bullet would be given as starting and full power loads. It didn't matter who made the bullet, or what shape it was, as long as it was 180 grains, it required X grains of Y powder for a load.
I adopted that system and load all bullets of a given weight and calibre, to the same charge. In all my years of reloading I have never distinguished the slightest difference in pressure, while using various brands, or shapes, of the same weight bullet.
As years went on I would get the powder companies loading charts.
However, the best loading information is how it works in my rifle(s). I would take my loading outfit out to the range and develope a load for the rifle I had with me. I would use the same three rifle cases for every load, as I built up the loads. That way, I would have the ultimate check of an overload, by seeing that the primer pockets didn't enlarge. An enlarged primer pocket is a sure sign of a very heavy overload. In every case of testing for loads, I never did swell a primer pocket with the three cases used for testing. I would watch for other signs of pressure, maybe even going so far as having a mild stick of the bolt handle on opening. In that case, I would drop the load back a grain, or maybe even more, to get a normal full power load.
Rifles are often different. A load that 30-06 rifle A digests with no sign of heavy pressure, will stick the bolt on 30-06 B.
Most important is to make precise notes of all the testing. That is my reloading manual!
I once looked at a modern reloading manual on a store shelf. I looked up the 30-06 and discovered the maximum load they gave of IMR 4350 and a 180 grain bullet, was 4 grains less, than my well tested load. Amazingly, their load still gave the same velocity, 2700 fps!
I did not invent this type of reloading testing. It is exactly what Jack O'Connor said he did. He, and other writers like Elmer Keith, Townsend Whelan and many more, also stated that a properly bedded, well tuned rifle would be accurate with these full power loads, and that is exactly what I have found, also.
 
I guess I am just a naughty boy! Maybe the type you shouldn't even associate with.
In 45 years of reloading I have never owned a genuine reloaders manual!
I started out exclusively with Norma components and their mini book called the Norma Gunbugs Guide. There was sufficient information in it to safely load ammunition with Norma powders.
When I started branching out into different powders, I discovered that Ellwood Epps 1964 catalogue had reloading charts in it, with IMR and Hodgdon powders. That was all I needed. Those old loading charts never specified a charge for different brands of the same weight bullet. For example a 30-06 with 180 grain bullet would be given as starting and full power loads. It didn't matter who made the bullet, or what shape it was, as long as it was 180 grains, it required X grains of Y powder for a load.
I adopted that system and load all bullets of a given weight and calibre, to the same charge. In all my years of reloading I have never distinguished the slightest difference in pressure, while using various brands, or shapes, of the same weight bullet.
As years went on I would get the powder companies loading charts.
However, the best loading information is how it works in my rifle(s). I would take my loading outfit out to the range and develope a load for the rifle I had with me. I would use the same three rifle cases for every load, as I built up the loads. That way, I would have the ultimate check of an overload, by seeing that the primer pockets didn't enlarge. An enlarged primer pocket is a sure sign of a very heavy overload. In every case of testing for loads, I never did swell a primer pocket with the three cases used for testing. I would watch for other signs of pressure, maybe even going so far as having a mild stick of the bolt handle on opening. In that case, I would drop the load back a grain, or maybe even more, to get a normal full power load.
Rifles are often different. A load that 30-06 rifle A digests with no sign of heavy pressure, will stick the bolt on 30-06 B.
Most important is to make precise notes of all the testing. That is my reloading manual!
I once looked at a modern reloading manual on a store shelf. I looked up the 30-06 and discovered the maximum load they gave of IMR 4350 and a 180 grain bullet, was 4 grains less, than my well tested load. Amazingly, their load still gave the same velocity, 2700 fps!
I did not invent this type of reloading testing. It is exactly what Jack O'Connor said he did. He, and other writers like Elmer Keith, Townsend Whelan and many more, also stated that a properly bedded, well tuned rifle would be accurate with these full power loads, and that is exactly what I have found, also.

I'd love to have a copy of your notes Bruce. If you ever copy them, put me down for one.
 
reloading.jpg

$17.33 from Amazon.ca
 
... That looks like a useful manual to have, and the price is reasonable ! I'll have to keep my eyes open for a copy ! Thanks "pontcanna" ! .... David K.:wave:
 
I guess I am just a naughty boy! Maybe the type you shouldn't even associate with.
In 45 years of reloading I have never owned a genuine reloaders manual!
I started out exclusively with Norma components and their mini book called the Norma Gunbugs Guide. There was sufficient information in it to safely load ammunition with Norma powders.
In previous discussions I've found out we have a few points in common. One of the first was both of us having a copy of Lyman's 1st Book of Cast Bullets. I see now, we have another, The Norma Gunbug's Guide. In addition with that I have a copy of the accompanying Norma ballistic table booklet AND the Sheet info titled Norma Ballistic Tables Loading Data. Those three pieces of printed info, and assorted components, I received with my 308 NM Schultz & Larsen when I purchased it. Oh, last but not least, I also acquired the old Norma bullet display board, which is presently part of my reloading room decor.
 
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Johnn, I also have the Norma Ballistic Tables loading Data. This is like a double folded magazine size sheet. Opened up it shows all the bullets, then the ballistic tables and loading data.
I also have the Norma Loading Data booklet. On the cover it shows all their powders, the old originals, 200, 201, 203, 204 and 205.
This one is unique, in that it is the only Norma loading data I have seen that shows a 200 grain bullet in 30-06. It shows a maximum of 60.5 grains of 205 for a velocity of 2684.
I had 200 grain bullets and Norma 205 at the range with my loading outfit and worked up a load as described in my previous posting. I ended up with 61 grains of 205. At that time I had access to an Oehler chronograph and this load checked out in my rifle at 2700 feet per second. This jibes 100% with their data, and proves what I have always said. Norma is the only loading data that gives honest velocity figures.
Norma at one time had available a monthly (I think) letter, called Norma News. I have the Vol 1, #7, 1969 issue. It describes some of their printings and has an article on bullet crimping.
In recent years at gun shows I have picked up a bit of Norma powder, 203 and 204. 205 has a burning rate very close to H4831, but the 205 is much denser. 60 grains will go in a 270 case and after you can hear it shake.
Also, 204 is a lot like 4350, but will give you a bit more velocity, in what I have checked.
 
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