Reloading manuals

Remmy700

Remmy700

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So after quite the hiatus I’m getting back into this. Fairly good deal came along and I ended up with a Lyman set and manual this time. I’m not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me but I remember the old Speer manual

having more recipes per caliber than the lyman manual

Am I wrong?

If anyone is familiar with the layout of that particular Speer manual could you suggest a manual that’s got a similar layout? Maybe I’m a creature of habit but I much preferred it over the Lyman manual
 
Remmy700 said:
So after quite the hiatus I’m getting back into this. Fairly good deal came along and I ended up with a Lyman set and manual this time. I’m not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me but I remember the old Speer manual

having more recipes per caliber than the lyman manual

Am I wrong?

If anyone is familiar with the layout of that particular Speer manual could you suggest a manual that’s got a similar layout? Maybe I’m a creature of habit but I much preferred it over the Lyman manual
Click to expand...

Most of the older hornady, nosler, etc follow that type of format. - dan
 
the Speer manual has older powders and none of the new calibers

but the ballistic tables and all the old info is still valuable

some of the old info does not appear in the newer books
 
I personally like the Lyman series of manuals mainly because they are not tied to a certain brand of powder or bullet, LEE as well. Both of those have extensive tables on cast bullets too.
Having said that, I would suggest that you pick up as many books as you can. Each resource has its strengths and weaknesses and being able to compare different books can be very helpful. You will find that even though you have manuals from reputable companies, their data can be greatly different. Some are very conservative in their listings and some tend to run a little hotter. When changing a load or working up an new caliber, it is not unusual for me to start with 4 or more manuals laid out on the bench for comparisons.
 
tbhupe said:
I personally like the Lyman series of manuals mainly because they are not tied to a certain brand of powder or bullet, LEE as well. Both of those have extensive tables on cast bullets too.
Having said that, I would suggest that you pick up as many books as you can. Each resource has its strengths and weaknesses and being able to compare different books can be very helpful. You will find that even though you have manuals from reputable companies, their data can be greatly different. Some are very conservative in their listings and some tend to run a little hotter. When changing a load or working up an new caliber, it is not unusual for me to start with 4 or more manuals laid out on the bench for comparisons.
Click to expand...

Well said, a lot of good information got left behind in those old manuals. Guys like Lee had a unique approach to the subject.
 
Oh when starting to work up a load I pull out all the old manuals and do a comparison, Lee, Lyman, Speer, then on to the internet to check out what else I can find.

There is some interesting stuff in some of the older manuals.
 
OP,

Send me your email and I can share few gigs of reloading resources (pdfs, etc).

Cheers,
 
This is why I love this site, great community

Dan- PM sent, you’re right that there should be a sticky for this

Bob- PM sent. Can’t remember for sure but I believe you shared a bunch of load data for 7-08 with me in the past

I’m loading for a 223 1:9 (69gr) 20” barrel and a 308 1:12 (168gr) 20” barrel and with the shortage of components I’m trying to find powders for dual purpose. Got some CFE223 but the Speer manual is to old to list it and the Lyman book doesn’t list it for 308 at all but I’ve read many people having great luck with it for 308.

Sticker shock is definitely a thing with these prices now a days but maybe if someone has a lead on primers or varget/benchmark they could shoot me a PM
 
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Remmy700 said:
So after quite the hiatus I’m getting back into this. Fairly good deal came along and I ended up with a Lyman set and manual this time. I’m not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me but I remember the old Speer manual

having more recipes per caliber than the lyman manual

Am I wrong?

If anyone is familiar with the layout of that particular Speer manual could you suggest a manual that’s got a similar layout? Maybe I’m a creature of habit but I much preferred it over the Lyman manual
Click to expand...

A couple things to consider - if the older manuals had merit, recall that many were written before they did pressure testing - so they used "home grown" ways to develop data - perhaps is why the later versions of most all manuals disavow whatever they formerly had published. Is also the old manuals were using old bullets, old primers, old case and old powder from that era - it is modern hand loader assuming the "new" stuff that he has, is same as that old stuff was.

When I started, one of the first I acquired was Nosler No. 1 - I now use Nosler #9 manual, among several others - including Lyman 50th that you show - and I have found gross error on Nosler website and in Nosler #9 - so as above - more than one source is to put your mind at ease about that first shot - you do "work up to" a loading, right? The error that I found has been described multiple times on posts by me on CGN - but basically the Start load listed, is Higher then the Maximum loading listed in previous Nosler Manuals, for that cartridge (7mm STW) and that powder (H1000) and that bullet weight (175 grain).
 
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Remmy700 said:
This is why I love this site, great community

Dan- PM sent, you’re right that there should be a sticky for this

Bob- PM sent. Can’t remember for sure but I believe you shared a bunch of load data for 7-08 with me in the past

I’m loading for a 223 1:9 (69gr) 20” barrel and a 308 1:12 (168gr) 20” barrel and with the shortage of components I’m trying to find powders for dual purpose. Got some CFE223 but the Speer manual is to old to list it and the Lyman book doesn’t list it for 308 at all but I’ve read many people having great luck with it for 308.

Sticker shock is definitely a thing with these prices now a days but maybe if someone has a lead on primers or varget/benchmark they could shoot me a PM
Click to expand...

I replied to your email. The problem is that these are larger files, and I know my email can't send anything that large. We will have to use a file sharing app, if you have one you use let me know, or I'll see what I have on this machine. All else fails a thumb drive in snail mail. Hodgdon has CFE 223 for the 308 168 gr from 46.6-49 gr. For 223 60 gr it is listed from 25-26.7 gr. I just got burned by Cabelas on two pounds of Varget, and yes, it is getting tough to find. - dan
 
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Remmy700, if you're using late manufacture powders that Lyman #50 should cover just about everything, other than the older obsolete or military cartridges. The new #51, which I haven't seen for sale will have a bit more information on the powders mostly available at the time.

Many of us older folks here have powders dating back to WWII, such as 4831, with no prefix letters. This powder was offered by Hodgdon and many other outlets, in bulk as cheap as a dollar for a 5 pound paper sack full. So we bought lifetime supplies.

That old powder has a slightly different burn rate to the later "new manufacture" powders.

If you follow standard procedures, and start with reduced loads, all is well.

This is where the older manuals really shine.

Looking at data spread sheets on reloading is fine, but I find it tedious. I like have a hard copy, book in my hands that I can compare to other books.

The reason for this is that some of the older loads would be excessive with new manufacture powders of the same designation.

If you're shooting modern or proven strong firearms, this really isn't an issue, but some get very excited over flattened primers, which are supposedly and indication of high pressures. Generally it's a great rule of thumb and really is time to drop your load by half a grain or more.

Sadly, it often happens that the sweet spot for the rifle is at the point that flattens the primers. It may just be the time to use a slightly slower powder, or even a slightly faster powder, depending on the circumstances.

The list is long when it comes to variances. Today, most cannister grade (off the shelf) powders are extremely consistent from lot to lot.

So consistent that a lot of younger hand loaders don't even bother to check their points of impact with a different lot of powder.

Back in the day, any change at all between powder lots, primer lots and of course brass lots meant that the loads had to be checked for everything from velocities to POIs.
 
Remmy700 said:
This is why I love this site, great community

Dan- PM sent, you’re right that there should be a sticky for this

Bob- PM sent. Can’t remember for sure but I believe you shared a bunch of load data for 7-08 with me in the past

I’m loading for a 223 1:9 (69gr) 20” barrel and a 308 1:12 (168gr) 20” barrel and with the shortage of components I’m trying to find powders for dual purpose. Got some CFE223 but the Speer manual is to old to list it and the Lyman book doesn’t list it for 308 at all but I’ve read many people having great luck with it for 308.

Sticker shock is definitely a thing with these prices now a days but maybe if someone has a lead on primers or varget/benchmark they could shoot me a PM
Click to expand...

Incidentally, CFE 223 has an almost identical burning rate to BL(C)2, so that data will work too. Start low, work up. - dan
 
bearhunter said:
Remmy700, if you're using late manufacture powders that Lyman #50 should cover just about everything, other than the older obsolete or military cartridges. The new #51, which I haven't seen for sale will have a bit more information on the powders mostly available at the time.

Many of us older folks here have powders dating back to WWII, such as 4831, with no prefix letters. This powder was offered by Hodgdon and many other outlets, in bulk as cheap as a dollar for a 5 pound paper sack full. So we bought lifetime supplies.

That old powder has a slightly different burn rate to the later "new manufacture" powders.

If you follow standard procedures, and start with reduced loads, all is well.

This is where the older manuals really shine.

Looking at data spread sheets on reloading is fine, but I find it tedious. I like have a hard copy, book in my hands that I can compare to other books.

The reason for this is that some of the older loads would be excessive with new manufacture powders of the same designation.

If you're shooting modern or proven strong firearms, this really isn't an issue, but some get very excited over flattened primers, which are supposedly and indication of high pressures. Generally it's a great rule of thumb and really is time to drop your load by half a grain or more.

Sadly, it often happens that the sweet spot for the rifle is at the point that flattens the primers. It may just be the time to use a slightly slower powder, or even a slightly faster powder, depending on the circumstances.

The list is long when it comes to variances. Today, most cannister grade (off the shelf) powders are extremely consistent from lot to lot.

So consistent that a lot of younger hand loaders don't even bother to check their points of impact with a different lot of powder.

Back in the day, any change at all between powder lots, primer lots and of course brass lots meant that the loads had to be checked for everything from velocities to POIs.
Click to expand...

I still follow that rule. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
I still follow that rule. - dan
Click to expand...

As do I, old habits die hard.

The thing is I have enough components on hand to last till my final days, then the step and grandson get the rest, which will last them for several years.

When we get together, for a reloading session, I always stress that some of the new loads aren't apropriate for certain powders that were manufactured over 20 years ago.
 
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