reloading steel cases
- Thread starter rhino519
- Start date
Changing bullets is generally quite straightforward. Might be necessary to neck size the case for uniform bullet pull. Pressures may or may not be close to the original. Years ago, the US NRA experimented with replacing 150gr bullets in USGI .30-06 ammunition. Softpoints replaced the ball projectiles. In every case, the pressure was higher, although not enough to be problematic.
A lot of steel cased ammunition is Berdan primed. You may or may not want to go there.
A lot of steel cased ammunition is Berdan primed. You may or may not want to go there.
OP, it will all depend on your rifle.
If it's a bolt action, you can likely get away with just neck sizing or maybe partial case resizing.
It it's a semi auto, such as an SKS, you may have to full length resize to get them to chamber properly.
I reloaded a lot of steel cases for a while, mostly out of curiosity.
The steel used to make them is quite soft, but it hardens very quickly. On the plus side, it doesn't seem to stretch as much as brass amalgam cases.
The steel used for cartridge cases is a low carbon type, which helps to keep it malleable. It's relatively easy to anneal, around 500F.
I started reloading steel cases for the 7.62x54R. These were commercial cases out of Europe, with a grey lacquer. They have Berdan style priming.
IMHO, I can see steel cases being used for commercial ammunition in our future. It's cheaper and from what I've read, easier to produce. It's biggest problem is rust, therefore it needs to be coated.
I reloaded some of those cases half a dozen times. The started to get cracked necks, before they started stretching.
There are some pros and cons for steel cases. Price is of course quite big.
Then, there is a good chance plastic cases will be developed. Lots of issues there to overcome.
If it's a bolt action, you can likely get away with just neck sizing or maybe partial case resizing.
It it's a semi auto, such as an SKS, you may have to full length resize to get them to chamber properly.
I reloaded a lot of steel cases for a while, mostly out of curiosity.
The steel used to make them is quite soft, but it hardens very quickly. On the plus side, it doesn't seem to stretch as much as brass amalgam cases.
The steel used for cartridge cases is a low carbon type, which helps to keep it malleable. It's relatively easy to anneal, around 500F.
I started reloading steel cases for the 7.62x54R. These were commercial cases out of Europe, with a grey lacquer. They have Berdan style priming.
IMHO, I can see steel cases being used for commercial ammunition in our future. It's cheaper and from what I've read, easier to produce. It's biggest problem is rust, therefore it needs to be coated.
I reloaded some of those cases half a dozen times. The started to get cracked necks, before they started stretching.
There are some pros and cons for steel cases. Price is of course quite big.
Then, there is a good chance plastic cases will be developed. Lots of issues there to overcome.
thank you all, it’s more of a curiosity right now, got lots of surplus (it’s 7.62x54R) but no hunting ammo, just weighting the options if i choose to take her hunting next season (got this bug for hunting with mil surp rifles ��) and just saw a little vid on how to remove berdan primers using hydronic press(?) lever(?)
It is one thing to get the Berdan primers out.
Then you must locate a supply of new ones.
Your priming system may or may not work with them. They are not necessarily the same size as similar Boxer primers.
Changing bullets is one thing and is often a practical option; reloading Berdan cases generally makes sense only if primers are available, and the caliber is a scarce one.
Then you must locate a supply of new ones.
Your priming system may or may not work with them. They are not necessarily the same size as similar Boxer primers.
Changing bullets is one thing and is often a practical option; reloading Berdan cases generally makes sense only if primers are available, and the caliber is a scarce one.
You need to be really careful, if the original load was corrosive. Those cases will rust on the inside, unless they're cleaned and stabilized. IMHO, unless you really are hard up for cases to reload, it's a lot of trouble. Finding proper sized Berdan primers can be a challenge as well.
I went so far as to drill out the center pedestal and tried fitting Boxer primers on some brass cases I came across with crimped primer pockets. The crimp had moved enough material towards the primer pocket that I could load them with a Berdan prime, which I sealed with fingernail polish, because I didn't trust it. Threw it all away as soon as Norma cases became available. That was over 40 years ago and Mosins weren't very common. The odd time I would run across a US made surplussed through Bannerman's and a few other outlets back before WWII.
The Hornady steel cases are made in Europe, to European standards. I believe it's cheaper to form cases and load for Berdan priming, because the anvil is in the primer pocket.
Some feel that ignition is better because of the two flash holes.
It is easy to make "Mexican match" ammo.
Pull the FMJ bullet and seat a new bullet of similar weight. This will work for plinking with a bolt rifle.
The neck tension might be a bit too light for hunting or best accuracy.
I dump the powder, neck size (partially size with a FL die with no decapper) and re-throw an accurate powder charge.
his can be done with any factory loaded ammo. It is very common with milsurp ammo, where a match bullet or a good soft point is substituted.
Pull the FMJ bullet and seat a new bullet of similar weight. This will work for plinking with a bolt rifle.
The neck tension might be a bit too light for hunting or best accuracy.
I dump the powder, neck size (partially size with a FL die with no decapper) and re-throw an accurate powder charge.
his can be done with any factory loaded ammo. It is very common with milsurp ammo, where a match bullet or a good soft point is substituted.
