Remington 700 / .300 Win Mag Muzzle Break?

Exercitus

Exercitus

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Hi guys,

I've just purchased a Remington 700 XCR chambered in .300 Win Mag to punch paper and was wondering if I should look into a muzzle break if they are available for the Remington 700.

I've been shooting .22 and .223 Remington till now and I've heard and read that the .300 Win Mag is a big jump and punishes the shooter a lot more then the two above mentioned calibers.

Cheers,

Exercitus
 
Have a good decelorator recoil pad installed first and then shoot the rifle a bit. If you still find the recoil to be too much, you should have bought a lighter recoiling caliber. A muzzle brake can be installed by a gunsmith. It will be noisier to anyone beside you or to you if the noise reflects off anything close. It is an awful lot of energy wasted just punching paper... but then there are the 50's...:D
 
I am having one installed on my .300 Win Mag and I think its a good idea. It makes it more comfortable to shoot and you have less chance of developing a flinch, especially taking the jump from a .223. You can always remove it if you are at the range in close proximity to others.

And to be quite honest with you the recoil is not really that bad with a .300 Win Mag, then again I also shoot a .300 Weatherby and a .338 Lapua.
 
here is a link to the brake

http://w w w.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=13835&title=RIFLE+MUZZLE+BRAKE

just take out the spaces in WWW

any good gunsmith can mount it for you


Jamie Barkwell
 
I have a Browning BOSS, which is my first and last muzzle break rifle. The noise it generates is unbearable and bothers everyone at the bench. I now use the CR option (ie. without the muzzle break).

You have a 26" barrel on your XCR and you are planning to add a muzzle break making it 28"? Not to mention the installation cost (est $200-400) and extra noise, the rifle would be too cumbersome to use in the field. You can’t shoot it without ear protection (muff plus plugs) making it impractical as a hunting rifle.

I strongly suggest you try a good recoil pad (not sure how good the R3 is) and/or PAST recoil shield before installing a muzzle break.

As an alternative, trade the rifle in for a .270 or .308….. Build up your recoil tolerance before moving up to a 300WM.

Danny
 
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Exer....
You made your purchase so now you'll find out if the 300wm is too much recoil for enjoyable shooting when you hit the range.
If uncomfortable the steps to recoil management.....
1.new butpad (decelerator or something similair)
2.Mercury recoil tube in butstock
3.Past shoulder pad harness or Browning shirt shoulder pad
4.if still too much then look at compensator .Braking a rifle properly will work but it has a price.In addition to the noise and hot gases and some frowns from the shooters around you,it may limit the type of matches you can shoot in, that prohibit brakes(if that's an intention)
If after all four you can not tolerate the push,5th option would be restocking to a heavier straight line target stock which can help as well.
If STILL too much you may want to look at a lighter round .
Take it one step at a time as each will cost some $$$
As for brakes I prefer 2 and both available at JP Rifles and require a gunsmith installation (can be installed removable but have a thread protector made)
PS watch out for scope bite the first time you fire it as is a wee bit more than a 223!
Best
Gord
 
I have a custom brake on my 700P(300WM) and it works like a charm. The recoil is next to nothing.The cost I believe was $300.00 installed.
 
I'm debating the same thing. Has anybody seen any accuracy changes between a braked and non-braked rifle (good or bad). That is my biggest concern right now. I use the rifle for competition and hunting. I have used the rifle for years and the recoil doesn't bother me but after trying a buddie rifle and being able to spot the shots so easily my mind is torn. So I watch with great interest the replies to this thread.
 
Brakes never bother me when other people shot them while I am at the range. Although a good recoil lug and a decelerator may do the trick as well.
 
Johnny5 said:
I'm debating the same thing. Has anybody seen any accuracy changes between a braked and non-braked rifle (good or bad). That is my biggest concern right now. I use the rifle for competition and hunting. I have used the rifle for years and the recoil doesn't bother me but after trying a buddie rifle and being able to spot the shots so easily my mind is torn. So I watch with great interest the replies to this thread.
Click to expand...


PM farmboy...his shot sub MOA after the VAIS was put on....Stormbringers little guy(then 10 years old)had no issues shooting the 300 with that brake:D


Jamie Barkwell
 
So where can a guy get a good muzzle brake in Canada? I would love one of the side ported ones (eg. holland, pgw, etc...). Don't know anybody that has one. And my efforts to contact PGW via email have turned out less than desireable results.
 
Try Alberta_Tactical_Rifle.......I think the guys name was Rick. He makes a pretty nice side ported one and is great to deal with. I have seen some of the ones he has done and they looked great. Try a search because this topic comes up at least every month.
 
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Give Keith Cunningham a try a MilCun. I had a M24 set up in .300 mag and considered using it on a Sniper course, it was just too much. If I did it again I'd have the barrel threaded for a brake.
 
Exercitus said:
Hi guys,

I've just purchased a Remington 700 XCR chambered in .300 Win Mag to punch paper and was wondering if I should look into a muzzle break if they are available for the Remington.

Exercitus
Click to expand...

The 300 WM is quite a step up from your present calibers. You will find that shooting it comfortably is next to impossible for any length of time. The rifle is also on the light side for long sessions at the range. Here is my take.
1. If your main use for the rifle are hunting then a temporary recoil reducer like a sissy bag or sandbag can make shooting at the range tolerable since shooting at game will seldom cause you to remember the recoil because of the thrill of the moment.
2. Sustained range sessions will have you rethinking your choice of caliber and rifle pretty quickly. The solution is to increase the weight of the rifle or use a muzzle brake. The brake is very effective and will make the rifle much more manageable. The fact is that you can remove the brake for hunting use if it is set up for this by having the gunsmith fit a cap to protect the threaded portion. I have used a few different types like the Boss, Vais, Holland and the KDF types, I have also used Magnaporting and they all work well. The Magnaporting has the advantage of not changing the length of the gun. The Holland is my go to brake right now mostly because it works and doesn't have any holes underneath to raise debris when shooting from a bypod, it is a little harder to install but it is worth it .
bigbull
 
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