Remington 788 bolt repairs?

detectivemittens

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Hey guys,
I was wondering if any of you know who does 788 bolt repairs and or fabrication I'm Canada. I have a fubar'd bolt that needs someone who knows EXACTLY what they're doing or can make a new one. Does anyone know if such a person exists in Canada?

Thanks
 
Getting used to the new CGN format, so will try a post. The 788,s have a bad habbit of shedding their bolt handles is this what happened to yours ?? Or can you expand on fubar'd for us. Regards David Henry.
 
Y'know....

If you'd just out and say what was wrong with it, you'd get good answers and you wouldn't waste so much time.


Really!

Trev
 
Okay. The bolt handle was welded on improperly and the threads on the inside of the bolt handle destroyed. At the same time they welded the threads flush where they grounded to do the welds. The firing pin, firing spring and end cap I have my fingers crossed but they were never returned. So they're most likely missing.
 
I suggest you sell the barreled action, magazine and stock. Get what you can from this obsolete pig. They were good shooters but had a real problem with the bolt handles and hot loads. I have seen many bolts screwed up as yours. No one is making replacement bolts. The factory can not help you.
 
I'm not looking for a replacement from the factory. I'm looking for someone who can either fix the more serious issues (re-tapping the end and welding the handle on the correct way.) the "pig" was a gift with sentimental value so if nobody can fix it then its getting hung on a wall.
 
You might try a WTB ad. in the EE for a bolt. They were made in different sizes for different calibers. It sounds as if repairing what you have would be a real challenge, maybe impractical. I have reattached quite a number of handles, using silver braze, but yours sounds as if it is a real mess.
 
They tried to use the silver braise but it was done so poorly by people that should have been able to do it quite proficiently but for some reason it was not done correctly or even well. It was kind of work you'd get fired on the spot for. I will put out a wtb for a bolt and hope for the best. Thank you very much. And if any of the smiths here are willing to potentially take the job on please pm me.
 
My approach to this repair was to clean the broken parts, silver solder the joint and chase the internal threads with a tap of the correct geometry. You will encounter different threads for different bolt shrouds on this model. I wouldn't bother trying to salvage the damaged bolt unless you can recover the missing striker componants.
Hi Harold, I'm still unsure what strategy I will employ regarding the 748 3030 number, as my intention is to work with a depot system and mail in work rather than walk in traffic, I dont want to hijack this 788 thread so will leave it at that for now. Regards David.
 
It's not the weld holding that concerns me its the welded threads where the end cap goes on. The weld looks terrible as well and was not re-blued either. Essentially the job would be cleaning up the weld and re-tapping the end and potentially tracking down or making a new firing pin, spring and end cap.
 
Done properly silver sloder will hold, they are neither obsolete or a pig or no more so than a lot of other discontinued models.

All discontinued models become obsolete. 'pig' however is in the eye of the beholder... ;)

They were great in their day, the cheapest thing Remington could produce... as low as $89 and all of them shot really well. However the rear locking lug and hot loads soon did bolt handles in... once they were discontinued and parts dried up... well they became obsolete.
 
Cheapest method and one which would retain the original parts: Are there any competent welders in your area that are skilled in G.T.A.W. aka TIG welding? The previous repair attempts with the solder failed because the metal was not bare and clean: It looks like big metal boogers, randomely stuck to both bolt and handle? The TIG process would be quite a "permanent" repair, where brazing or silver solder can at least be melted off to disassemble.

A gunsmith or competent machine shop could probably turn/mill a new bolt handle made from stronger metal than stock,(too avoid a repeat of the present problem) with oversized thread, leaving only the bolt thread to be tapped out to mate and the solder mess cleaned off.

Not sure how intent you are in retaining originality, it seems you are weighing between affordability and keeping a sentimental rifle in useful, but close to the condition you developed the attachment condition: I am sentimental almost to the point of OCD. I couldn't locate a shotgun bead for an old shotgun with sentimental value, I turned it on a drill out of Black Cherry when I was about 21 - I later turned one out of an old copper hydro wire, so when the wooden bead eventually breaks, I will have a replacement that will survive me.
 
The problem with the 788 handles is the design. Other rifles use attached handles without chronic problems. The 788 handle is a peg that is induction brazed in place. It does not extend very far into the bolt body, and only has a small shoulder. Not much area for the brazed joint.
There was a second version with a thicker rear collar on the bolt, which increased the area for the joint. The bolt plug has smaller threads. Still not enough. These are the ones with the handle swept back a bit; first version has the straight handle.
To reattach, the handle must be jigged in place. I used silver brazing paste. Wrap the lugs in wet rags. Heat the root of the handle and the collar until the braze runs. Clean up. There are taps available to recut the bolt plug threads if necessary. Not cheap.
 
Not cheap indeed... For those giving input one WHY the bolt broke, thank you but I know exactly why it happened. The bolt was in fact TIG welded. The bolt has been taken back and I'm hoping the second time it will come back acceptable. Worst case scenario I'm going to get into gunsmithing and keep it on a shelf until I make a new bolt myself.
 
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