Remove Stripped Screw Help

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MitchCDN

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Hi there I tried removing the rear site on a Benelli MR1 and i stripped one of the screws and can’t get it out.

I have tried drilling a pilot hole and using screw extractors etc nothing works. So I have one screw stuck in the recessed hole of the site and would love any help in getting it out so I can remove the site from the upper.
 
Can you post a picture?
It sounds like your in pretty deep at this point... drilling the head right off will free the sight and then depending on how much of the shaft is exposed you may be able to get on it with a small pair of vice grips?

If you actually have a nice centered pilot hole for the easy out, you could also just drill out the entire screw and re-tap the hole to clear the rest.

Good news is your dealing with a through hole and not a blind hole.... :)
 
Can-down said:
Can you post a picture?
It sounds like your in pretty deep at this point... drilling the head right off will free the sight and then depending on how much of the shaft is exposed you may be able to get on it with a small pair of vice grips?
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I will get a pic up tonight...I am in deep lol. I think I’m hooped.
 
MitchCDN said:
I will get a pic up tonight...I am in deep lol. I think I’m hooped.
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As I added in my first post, if you've got a nice hole started it might be best to just keep going right through, just keep the drill dimension to the correct size for the tap needed.... not an easy operation.
 
Once you have a hole drilled through the screw. I've found tapping an allen key into the hole, works better than screw extractors.
 
I agree that drilling straight through is probably best, especially if you have a centered pilot hole to go through. If you can go a tiny bit smaller than the threads you may be able to then chase the old threads clean with a pick and only have to buy a screw. I wouldn't attempt this without a drill press and some confidence tho, probably a job best left to a gunsmith.

The other option is to give up the sight base altogether and cut it away, which would leave enough screw to remove. However, that part is not cheap at all.
 
Can-down said:
As I added in my first post, if you've got a nice hole started it might be best to just keep going right through, just keep the drill dimension to the correct size for the tap needed.... not an easy operation.
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Well I managed to get through the entire screw...its a little off centre.

Crazy Cory said:
Once you have a hole drilled through the screw. I've found tapping an allen key into the hole, works better than screw extractors.
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I am going to try this! Thanks for the tip :)

rommelrommel said:
I agree that drilling straight through is probably best, especially if you have a centered pilot hole to go through. If you can go a tiny bit smaller than the threads you may be able to then chase the old threads clean with a pick and only have to buy a screw. I wouldn't attempt this without a drill press and some confidence tho, probably a job best left to a gunsmith.

The other option is to give up the sight base altogether and cut it away, which would leave enough screw to remove. However, that part is not cheap at all.
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I am def not skilled enough...if the Allen key doesnt work its going to a gun smith unfortunately.
 
Can-down said:
just keep the drill dimension to the correct size for the tap needed.
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Smaller at first, it won't be centred. I'd start small and work up. Often you'll get to a point pressure on the threads is relieved and the screw remnant can be turned out. Follow that with a re-tap just to clean up the threads.
 
bogusiii said:
Smaller at first, it won't be centred. I'd start small and work up. Often you'll get to a point pressure on the threads is relieved and the screw remnant can be turned out. Follow that with a re-tap just to clean up the threads.
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This is great advice but beyond my comfort level. I’ll screw this up (pun intended)
 
bogusiii said:
Smaller at first, it won't be centred. I'd start small and work up. Often you'll get to a point pressure on the threads is relieved and the screw remnant can be turned out. Follow that with a re-tap just to clean up the threads.
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Yes, I should have been a bit more clear. Don't go too big was more the point. And that it's not for the faint of skills... :)
 
MitchCDN said:
This is great advice but beyond my comfort level. I’ll screw this up (pun intended)
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Post a picture anyways... maybe there is another option depending on what it looks like so far.... :)

I like the allen key idea but I'd guess you will need a tight fit and have to hammer it in to get it to bite, maybe a degrease and dab of epoxy might help lock it in place? Your probably only going to get one attempt if you get something in there that gives you a bit of torque. The other issue is what was holding the treads in the first place that caused the initial strip.... loctite?

Did you try applying heat on the initial go?

Since you already have a pilot hole all the way through, I'd be tempted to carefully remove the head of the screw with an appropriate drill bit and see if taking off the sight gives you a better approach at the remaining stud.
 
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Nice pictures.

It looks like you could use what's left of the torx head to help center a larger drill bit that would allow you to remove the head.... :) A drill press would make it easier for sure but you'd still need a good way to secure the receiver before drilling it out.

The slight recess at the center of the torx head actually looked like a good centering crater for..... a small bit as bogusiii suggested. If you start small and work up you can even course correct a bit if you have a good eye and steady hands... but that ship sailed.

Probably best to seek out a machinist shop or someone with a decent drill press and some experience..... prepare to be berated.... :)

i2YD7Rm.jpg

tMBJq7r.jpg
 
It's off centre but it doesn't look like you hit the threads, which is good. A little heat, lube and small square ez-outs works the best. If not, drilling out the head to the bolt dia as mentioned before will allow you to get the mount off and maybe leave something to grab on to. If you don't feel comfortable play it safe, leave it for someone else.
 
Can-down said:
Nice pictures.

It looks like you could use what's left of the torx head to help center a larger drill bit that would allow you to remove the head.... :) A drill press would make it easier for sure but you'd still need a good way to secure the receiver before drilling it out.

The slight recess at the center of the torx head actually looked like a good centering crater for..... a small bit as bogusiii suggested. If you start small and work up you can even course correct a bit if you have a good eye and steady hands... but that ship sailed.

Probably best to seek out a machinist shop or someone with a decent drill press and some experience..... prepare to be berated.... :)

i2YD7Rm.jpg

tMBJq7r.jpg
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Thanks so much :) I also deserve to be berated so I welcome it with open arms haha!

I mean I know better than to try to torque something out when it has locktite without heating so this is my fault 100 percent. Again I appreciate the help and thanks for posting the photos for me as I only know how to link photos.

Do you think this can be done without damaging the existing threads in the receiver by a professional?
 
I'd be tempted to try some heat ( even a hair dryer on the inside of the receiver might help and then another go with your easy out, or find a machine bolt or tiny screw that fits in your pilot hole and screw it in from the bottom so that as it seats or bites it will be turning the stuck screw in the right direction....

Or swallow your pride and seek professional help..... :)
 
MitchCDN said:
Do you think this can be done without damaging the existing threads in the receiver by a professional?
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Yes.

And don't feel too bad... your not the first and you've learned something! Once you've stripped out a few things you learn to observe the fit of the driver, and also techniques like heat or vibration that can help break the bond.

The other thing is how smoothly you can hold pressure on the fastner head with the tool and maintain pressure down on it so it doesn't rise up and slip... it's an art for sure.

About 10 years ago I was helping a buddy out with a wooden boat restoration and there were a lot of fasteners that had been painted over too many times and now needed to be removed. After cleaning out as much paint as we could we couldn't get some of them out and ended up using a Lee Valley product that I believe was basically a valve grinding compound to provide friction and help get the drivers to bite into the worn heads of the screws and it was amazing how well that helped with otherwise worn out heads.... I got pretty good at removing impossible screws! A lot of it is mental too.... you have to believe you will get it..... :)

I've never tried gluing ( epoxy) a driver into a worn out head but I'd be tempted on yours. What kind of easy out did you try?

I find the name easy out to be a bit of an oxymoron as it's never quite what I'd call easy.... :)
 
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Win120 said:
It's off centre but it doesn't look like you hit the threads, which is good. A little heat, lube and small square ez-outs works the best. If not, drilling out the head to the bolt dia as mentioned before will allow you to get the mount off and maybe leave something to grab on to. If you don't feel comfortable play it safe, leave it for someone else.
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Yes thanks so much I think at this point it needs to be done by someone that has skills and experience. I don’t want to damage the existing threads. I have a construction background so I am used to tools and drilling etc but crude rough carpentry stuff not this fancy fine detailed work :)
 
Can-down said:
I'd be tempted to try some heat ( even a hair dryer on the inside of the receiver might help and then another go with your easy out, or find a machine bolt or tiny screw that fits in your pilot hole and screw it in from the bottom so that as it seats or bites it will be turning the stuck screw in the right direction....

Or swallow your pride and seek professional help..... :)
Click to expand...

This actually makes a lot of sense but I am tapping out, it’s going to have to be the pro route before I do something worse than I’ve already done!
 
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