- Location
- Calgary, AB
Dave, how do you find KG 12 on carbon? Do you use Butches, then KG 12 just for copper?
Remove the copper fouling?
- Thread starter rocklobster
- Start date
Dave, how do you find KG 12 on carbon? Do you use Butches, then KG 12 just for copper?
That is the combination that I use, Butches to clean out carbon, and KG-12 to remove the copper.
Here are two other products that can be used for cleaning barrels that have a old build up of carbon and copper layers.
1. It's called G-96 Military Grade Bore Solvent and is friendly with the nylon brushes. This stuff is placed in the barrel for 5 minutes or so and it means one can move the brush in both directions. Then do the dry patch.
2. A complimentary product is G-96 Nitro Solvent Gun Cleaner. Directions are included with the products. Same treatment with dry patches.
* This process can be done several times to get the barrel clean and should improve groups on an older rifle.
1. It's called G-96 Military Grade Bore Solvent and is friendly with the nylon brushes. This stuff is placed in the barrel for 5 minutes or so and it means one can move the brush in both directions. Then do the dry patch.
2. A complimentary product is G-96 Nitro Solvent Gun Cleaner. Directions are included with the products. Same treatment with dry patches.
* This process can be done several times to get the barrel clean and should improve groups on an older rifle.
1) Go to your nearest janitorial supply store.
2) Purchase a jug of industrial grade ammonia cleaning solution for less than $20.
3) Go home.
4) Clean copper from barrels of your rifles and those of your friends for the rest of your life.
Ted
2) Purchase a jug of industrial grade ammonia cleaning solution for less than $20.
3) Go home.
4) Clean copper from barrels of your rifles and those of your friends for the rest of your life.
Ted
I found that Wipeout works extremely well in getting the copper as well as the carbon out. Even the carbon ring near the throat of older rifles that had not been cleaned properly for years. I now use a patch with Wipeout Accelerator followed by a patch with wipeout. Wait 10 minutes and insert a tight dry patch followed by a couple more.
Then repeat the above until the dry patches come out clean.
Last time we did this on my son's Tikka Lite in 300WSM, he had put 170 rounds through the rifle and accuracy dropped off a small amount. We removed al the copper with 6 of the above sessions and a borescope showed it was clean with no carbon either. We loaded up a hundred rounds of 180 grain Barnes and fired 10 sets of 3 shot groups waiting five minutes between shots. The groups were all close to 1.5 inches on centres. The interesting part was at the 29th group the 3 shots were in 0.375" on centres and after the 30th group which was the same approximate size still well under 1/2 inch but five shots i suggested to reduce the carbon, we just pass two patches of Hoppes through followed by a dry patch then one with a light lube and tuck it away for his next hunt.
We have found this seems to work with most of our rifles as well and we have observed the same pattern of the required amount of copper before the groups tighten. Some with less shots needed than others.
The only rifle I have not seen this occur so clearly with, has a 5r Benchrest barrel in .308 Winchester, which just does not foul much at all. My .308 Model 700p LTR after 650 or so rounds has also settled down and only needed 8 shots the last time I cleaned the copper and carbon from it. I have found that I will have to repeat the sequence at around the 150 rounds fired point as group sizes get to around 1.5 to 1.7 inches at that point where it normally stays closer to .5 go .8 and with my good days some groups better.
I did try the industrial grade ammonia, but the wife had something to say about that when I was using it during the winter months... Too chilly out doors to use it there ... so Wipeout it is.
Then repeat the above until the dry patches come out clean.
Last time we did this on my son's Tikka Lite in 300WSM, he had put 170 rounds through the rifle and accuracy dropped off a small amount. We removed al the copper with 6 of the above sessions and a borescope showed it was clean with no carbon either. We loaded up a hundred rounds of 180 grain Barnes and fired 10 sets of 3 shot groups waiting five minutes between shots. The groups were all close to 1.5 inches on centres. The interesting part was at the 29th group the 3 shots were in 0.375" on centres and after the 30th group which was the same approximate size still well under 1/2 inch but five shots i suggested to reduce the carbon, we just pass two patches of Hoppes through followed by a dry patch then one with a light lube and tuck it away for his next hunt.
We have found this seems to work with most of our rifles as well and we have observed the same pattern of the required amount of copper before the groups tighten. Some with less shots needed than others.
The only rifle I have not seen this occur so clearly with, has a 5r Benchrest barrel in .308 Winchester, which just does not foul much at all. My .308 Model 700p LTR after 650 or so rounds has also settled down and only needed 8 shots the last time I cleaned the copper and carbon from it. I have found that I will have to repeat the sequence at around the 150 rounds fired point as group sizes get to around 1.5 to 1.7 inches at that point where it normally stays closer to .5 go .8 and with my good days some groups better.
I did try the industrial grade ammonia, but the wife had something to say about that when I was using it during the winter months... Too chilly out doors to use it there ... so Wipeout it is.
Last edited:
